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Thread: Exterior paint and primer

  1. #1
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    Apr 2007
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    New Jersey
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    Exterior paint and primer

    I have to paint the banisters on my porch.
    Has anyone had any experience with the paints that combine paint with primer?
    If so,what brand did you use?
    If not what brand would you recommend?
    Thanks
    Dennis

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    I'm sticking with what I know works. Oil based primer, and whatever the top of the line paint Sherwin Williams currently has. Ever since Duration was their top of the line paint, we've never had to so much as touch up anything painted that way, and I know it goes back at least to 2006.

    I've been using Emerald since it came out.

    I don't even use the combination paints on interior work.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    949
    If I'm unlucky enough to have to purchase "Paint and Primer", I ignore that it is primer and use one of the tried and true primers first. Then 2 coats of the paint. I try to avoid the whole issue by purchasing most of my paint at Sherwin Williams. They offer great paint and knowledgeable advice.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
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    We had the best of luck with the top of the line Behr product on our home exterior.
    Hobbyist

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Okotoks AB
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    I'll go the other way & say that Behr is consistently the worst of the name brand paints that I've used. Every few years I'll forget how bad it is & buy a can just because I'm at HD & it's right there on the shelf. It's always turned into a rude reminder.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Putney, Vermont
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    25 years ago I painted the 32" overhang on my house with Dutch Boy, 2 coats of exterior oil based primer and 2 coats of the best exterior latex paint they made. The paint is just now beginning to lift on the plywood underside in tiny cracks in the paint. The facia boards are still good and need repainting in one place I did not prep as good as the rest.
    I did the garage with the same paint on the walls and trim 20 years ago and it still looks unbelievably good. Ther guys at work said it would only last 5 years.
    Good prep with TSP and bleach and an oil primer with a good latex is the way to go.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    If I'm unlucky enough to have to purchase "Paint and Primer", I ignore that it is primer and use one of the tried and true primers first. Then 2 coats of the paint. I try to avoid the whole issue by purchasing most of my paint at Sherwin Williams. They offer great paint and knowledgeable advice.

    I agree that using a tried and true primer is the way to go, I did some painting at the cottage this summer and oil primed every thing. As far as SW, I would buy there if they are having a good sale or I know someone who can get it for me at discount. No way am I paying theirfull price.

    Cheers

  8. #8
    Gotta love Sherwin Williams paint. (Not just because it's a good name )

    Back in March 2009 I picked up a 5 gallon bucket of a SW basic white 'industrial enamel', to paint our houseboat with.
    As you can see I didn't bother with primer, I just ran over the original paint with a DA sander.
    The only other prep was I wiped down where I was about to paint with denatured alcohol and a rag.
    I used an old Sears paint compressor and gun, nothing fancy...
    skp1.jpg

    at the time I just painted the steel above the waterline.
    skp2.jpg
    About a year after I painted the hull a friend of ours painted the entire topside with the same paint. ROLLED on.
    Like me he just minimally sanded the old paint, which was already 3 coats of whatever was on there.
    Because some of the topside paint was flaking, I had him prime it with Zinsser's 1-2-3 primer...

    This is a pic that was taken last summer, 11 years later...
    skp3.jpg
    Aside from some dock rash, the paint is still in remarkable condition. None of the topside paint or
    hull paint is flaking, or coming off in any way. Up front where water splash hits the deadrise
    there is some minor surface rust working its way thru the paint. Only maintenance to any
    of the paint is I've 1500 psi-powerwashed it maybe a half dozen times.

    I'll never buy anything BUT Sherwin Williams paint...
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 09-30-2021 at 11:10 PM.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  9. #9
    Mods, I HOPE THIS NOT TOO FAR AFIELD. Cheap latex caulk is impossible to buy in my area. Even trying to buy a case on line after
    seeing a chain store ad for it didnít work. They are out. Big supply chain problems now for lots of stuff.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
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    4,419
    Don’t mess with oil anything. In the consumer market, there has been virtually zero research in oil paints for a long time. Use a quality acrylic primer recommended by the paint store (not a big box) for the intended substrate, followed by two topcoats of a quality acrylic exterior paint. It will probably be thick. Don’t thin it. Get it on, tip it off and leave it alone—don’t keep playing with it and going back to it. It will need to go on somewhat heavy to cover and to flow and level properly.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    Gotta love Sherwin Williams paint. ...

    I'll never buy anything BUT Sherwin Williams paint...
    Two or 6 previous lives ago, I used S-W coatings on exterior steel mixing vessels in industrial setting (chemicals). They started in bad shape, so took them to bare metal, primed (can't remember the primer), then a coat of S-W 2-part epoxy, followed by S-W Hi-build Aliphatic Polyurethane (also 2-part). They were bulletproof: epoxy was for chemical and mechanical resistance; polyurethane for UV resistance (epoxy will 'chalk' in sunlight). All in titanium white.

    Quick search of their site was no-joy on the epoxy - maybe discontinued, or renamed? Poly is still available. Excellent products!

    Mr. Thompson, I am not promoting this for use on your porch, rather just anecdotal endorsement of the brand. But.... if you want the be$t, $-W Indu$trial Coating$ will get you there.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    For bare wood, I'd use a separate, exterior rated waterborne primer before topcoating with a quality exterior paint. Without even considering whether or not primer+paint combos are up to the task, the only major appeal to them is time savings...at least in the beginning.

    I'm also a fan of SW coatings and rarely buy anything else.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    I've never tried water based primers outside. No reason, other than just sticking with what has worked so well.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I can't remember the last time I used anything oil based. LOL Whatever works is the best choice.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    529
    I have accounts at 2 stores: Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore.
    Iím 76. I really donít want to repaint until Iím in my 90s or later.
    Young enough to remember doing it;
    Old enough to wish I could do it again.

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