Contributor
There's your problem.Patrick I'm using 3/4" stock.
I'm pretty sure that set is made for 1/2" stock and not 3/4".
https://www.amanatool.com/49642-carb...nch-shank.html
That link lists the cutting height at 1/2" for the 49642 & 5/16" for the 49640
& looking at your picture - it sure looks like it's a 1/4" mismatch.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Member
It will only work with 3 optionsOriginally Posted by Malcolm McLeod
1. 1/2" stock
2. A rabbit/rebate
3. A modified cope cut.
The catalog says panel groove/stub tenon must be cut separately
https://timberlinetools.com/PhotoDet...log-page94.jpg
Member
A high-quality bit is very important for work, it seems to me that it is not worth saving on this, since a miser pays twice, when I was choosing a working bit for myself, I found a site https://www.woodroutersreviews.com/best-router-bits/ which helped me decide. I do not remember where I found it, but I think it will be useful for you to read it. So that in the future the bits won't break. Good luck with your new projects.
Member
So, I was bored - and curious.... I printed the related Amana webpage on cardstock, and cut quick/dirty 'pair' of profiles; results mate together nicely and are close to the dimensions listed on Amana site for the pictured part number(s). I can lay them out on pieces of 3/4" stock with no issues, no rabbits, no rebate - and so presumably these pieces should mate too. Depth is key to get co-planar top surfaces.
I have Amana cope & stick bit that does cut a panel groove, but is the reversible ogee profile (1 bit can be 'inverted' to cut both rail and cope). I just checked, and I am fairly certain that leaving the 'groove' cutter off, and configuring the profile cutter as required, will result in the equivalent cuts of the pictured bit pair. Depth is key.
Why does Mr. Krawford need a panel groove or stub tenon? He has no panel. Tenon for strength? It's screwed/nailed/glued flat to a wall. I'd think that sufficient? ...Clearly, I'm missing something.
Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 09-28-2021 at 2:15 PM. Reason: typo
Contributor
Truth be told I would make a molding profile I like and miter the corners.
George
Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.
Member
If he used 1/2" stock he wouldn't need a panel groove or stub tenon. It's also just a odd half lap at that point.So, I was bored - and curious.... I printed the related Amana webpage on cardstock, and cut quick/dirty 'pair' of profiles; results mate together nicely and are close to the dimensions listed on Amana site for the pictured part number(s). I can lay them out on pieces of 3/4" stock with no issues, no rabbits, no rebate - and so presumably these pieces should mate too. Depth is key to get co-planar top surfaces.
I have Amana cope & stick bit that does cut a panel groove, but is the reversible ogee profile (1 bit can be 'inverted' to cut both rail and cope). I just checked, and I am fairly certain that leaving the 'groove' cutter off, and configuring the profile cutter as required, will result in the equivalent cuts of the pictured bit pair. Depth is key.
Why does Mr. Krawford need a panel groove or stub tenon? He has no panel. Tenon for strength? It's screwed/nailed/glued flat to a wall. I'd think that sufficient? ...Clearly, I'm missing something.
That set will only cut this profile
Screenshot_20210928-110050_Chrome.jpg
Anything taller needs a panel groove (and mating stub tenon on the cope) or modified cope
Either way on a board over 1/2" thick something needs done with the section I delineated with black dashed lines. It could be cut out as a panel groove, or cut from the cope
Screenshot_20210928-160501_Chrome.jpg
Contributor
Yep. These are wainscoting bits, not panel bits. They are made to ride on top of a sheet of 1/4" plywood or on a flat painted wall. (well they can hold a raised panel, but, the panel is flat against the wall, not contained like in a cabinet door)Either way on a board over 1/2" thick something needs done with the section I delineated with black dashed lines. It could be cut out as a panel groove, or cut from the cope
Amana shows how it goes here:
https://www.amanatool.com/articles/p...cting_wainscot
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Member
Perhaps what we have here is a failure to communicate... Tho' I can't see your attachments, I think I understand your point now.
I would cope this on a router table w/ fence or sled, so that colors my statements as well. I would make a pass to cope the end of the stile to match the rail (...depth IS key!), then if necessary, simply drop the bit down and make a clean-up pass - - only the vertical shoulder of the bit would be cutting. I suspect this is your 'modified cope'? (To me it's simply clean-up.)
I like building large case pieces, and have done a long ton of frame/panel :: cope/stick cutting - and if any part of it can be done wrong, I've done it. Sometimes even, uuhhmm .... twice. Yeah. Twice. But a few escape the burn pile, and along the way I've learned to deal with no budget, (my) lousy material selection, (my) poor tooling choices, and even minor 'clean-up' like this.
[OP]
Contributor
Based on the comments about these bits being designed for 1/2" stock, I ran some cuts on 1/2". Now the height mismatch between the two piece dropped to about 3/32". No amount of bit height adjustment would result in the 2 faces mating properly. I called Amana and they have never heard of a problem like this. The issue I couldn't overcome seems to revolve around the bit that cuts the rails. When the concave and convex parts of the 2 cuts mate up, the projection on the bottom of the bit that cuts a thin dado is the problem. I finally gave up and returned the bits. This project started out with cove moulding on the insides of the rectangles but I was trying to avoid the 4 miter cuts required for each box.
Thanks everyone for weighing in.
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