Frustration With Rail & Stile Bits

[Ken Krawford]

I'm making some wainscot panels and found a rail & stile bit that's supposed to be for wainscoting. It specifies that it can be used either with the wall as the field or a 1/4" piece of paneling. I'm not going to have an inserted panel.
I've tried every adjustment I can think of but can't get this bit to work.
The bit in the first image is the style bit and the second one cuts the rails.


If you've got any suggestions, I'd be eternally grateful !!

Apologies for the image sizes. They were all the same size until I pasted them.

[Patrick Kane]

What is the thickness of your rails and stiles? Most of those sets only work with workpiece thicknesses of 3/4-7/8".

Looking at your joint, i think your problem is the bit height is incorrect, OR your workpieces are too thick.

[Jared Sankovich]

That set only cuts the profile and cope, you have to do the rebate/rabbit separately.

I've never seen a set like that before.

[Ken Krawford]

Patrick I'm using 3/4" stock. The image shown is the only way I can get the concave/convex aspects of the two pieces to mate. I've tried many different bit heights of both bits but the two pieces never mate properly.

[Ken Krawford]

Jared I've never seen anything like it either. The rail & stile bits I've used before were super easy to set up and/or adjust. Since I'm not using a panel insert why would I cut a rabbit? In that case I would have used my door bit. The info on Amana's web site says it can be used with or without a panel insert.

That set only cuts the profile and cope, you have to do the rebate/rabbit separately.

I've never seen a set like that before.

[Richard Coers]

Maybe a little look at the instructions will help you. https://www.amanatool.com/articles/p...cting_wainscot

[Jared Sankovich]

Jared I've never seen anything like it either. The rail & stile bits I've used before were super easy to set up and/or adjust. Since I'm not using a panel insert why would I cut a rabbit? In that case I would have used my door bit. The info on Amana's web site says it can be used with or without a panel insert.

The set is similar to one's that allow a integral tenon. They don't cut below the profile (typically the rabbited section) there needs to be some level of mating cut here or the parts will never go together

61nZUe1hDDL._SL1000_.jpg

[Carroll Courtney]

I have watch several Youtubes on this subject, not one did I see anyone use a router bits. All done with butt joints and pocket holes with trim. The rails were I would say 3/4 and the styles were 5/8 with or without a panel with trim around the perimeter of the styles and rails. I wish Youtube had been around when I done mine.

[George Bokros]

I think both bits need be raised in your router table. Neither one of your pieces look like the picture you copied from the website.

[Jared Sankovich]

I think both bits need be raised in your router table. Neither one of your pieces look like the picture you copied from the website.

The issue is it can't cut the profile shown. Look at the bits again. They are just the top section of a normal rail and stile bit set.

bb3a9b15-b855-4ac7-ba5c-f4006db7ce26_owom-0r.jpg

[Richard Coers]

The issue is it can't cut the profile shown. Look at the bits again. They are just the top section of a normal rail and stile bit set.

bb3a9b15-b855-4ac7-ba5c-f4006db7ce26_owom-0r.jpg

So maybe you use the female bit to cut a rabbet on the style.

[Malcolm McLeod]

As I understand your intent, the rail should have a continuous edge profile along its (entire) length. The stile presumably gets this same edge treatment and then is coped on the end(s) such that it mates to the rail.

Based on your bit identifications, I also assume you want a concave edge profile? Looking at the last photo, I'd suggest the pieces are (functionally) reversed - with the cuts as shown relative to the grain direction, the rail is on the left and the style on the right. The stile should have its end coped. Also, the depth of the edge cutter should be set to leave the expected edge profile. In the photo, this edge is totally buried on both parts.

I would mill the expected edge profile on all parts first - with the rail bit (leaving a concave edge), then cut the stiles to length and cope the ends with the stile bit.

Edit- Depending on material, you might get less blow-out if the cope is cut first, then the edges...??? And corrected my misread of bit purpose.

[Jim Dwight]

I agree with Jared, these bits will not cut the entire profile. You must cut a rabbet on the stile piece separately for this to work. You might be able to do it on the table saw with the piece on edge (to reduce setup time). Or a rabbeting bit in a router if you have a bearing set to get the right depth of cut.

[Malcolm McLeod]

... I'm not going to have an inserted panel. ...

I agree with Jared, these bits will not cut the entire profile. You must cut a rabbet on the stile piece separately for this to work. You might be able to do it on the table saw with the piece on edge (to reduce setup time). Or a rabbeting bit in a router if you have a bearing set to get the right depth of cut.

Maybe I'm missing something, but for the conditions given and qualified by my post #12, I see no problem using this bit pair. I'll only add that the depth control is key.

[George Bokros]

I think both bits need be raised in your router table. Neither one of your pieces look like the picture you copied from the website.

I take this back. His stock is to thick. If he was putting a panel in he would need a rabbet. Since he is not putting a panel in his stock is to thick.