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Thread: Which of these scrapers...?

  1. #16
    I have made good use of John K Jordan's advice about negative rake scrapers and scraping the stationary bowl with small hand-held scrapers. He also led me to get a thick scraper from Stewart Macdonald which is quite nice. It's easy to grind standard card scrapers to any curve needed and put a hook on with a burnisher.

    A great advantage of scraping and sanding a stationary turning is that the stock removal can take place exactly where needed. When cleaning up a rough surface that is rotating, more material is removed from side grain areas whereas the worst problems (tearout) are usually in the transition areas between side and end grain. That can lead to the work getting out of round and the process taking longer than if the local problems are smoothed and faired into the surrounding areas. I don't do that much sanding with the piece turning except when getting into corners, beads and the like. I do use scrapers while turning to fair the overall shape if I can't quite get there with a gouge.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    ....

    A great advantage of scraping and sanding a stationary turning is that the stock removal can take place exactly where needed. When cleaning up a rough surface that is rotating, more material is removed from side grain areas whereas the worst problems (tearout) are usually in the transition areas between side and end grain.
    I'm so glad this is working for you!! I've had feedback from some others with similar success. Another huge advantage to me is working this way doesn't create the clouds of dust I got with a rotating disk when the lathe is spinning! My particle count meter testifies to this, there is not fine dust settling all over the shop, and my lungs are happier.

    And the scraping and sanding "exactly where needed" is a huge help if there is any detail in the piece such as carefully cut beads, sharp corners at the rim or base, or decorative v-grooves. Besides selectively "dishing" softer areas of the wood, rotating disks are notorious for rounding over things and softening detail. With the hand scrapers followed by light sanding by hand with fine paper I can easily preserve the detail.

    I probably posted this before, but some might be interested. When sanding by hand I almost always use what I call a soft sanding block.

    sanding_soft_block.jpg

    It's simply a soft rubber eraser with the sandpaper wrapped around. Conforms nicely to curves. I use the white "Magic Rub" erasers or clones I bought at the dollar store, four for a dollar I think. I often cut them into narrower pieces, sometimes with angles on the ends to help get into tight places.

    After the NRS and the hand scrapers, I can often start with 400 grit sandpaper, a little coarser for stubborn tearout or deeper scratches. I do use bright "point source" lights set for glancing across the surface to help me see any defect that need attention. To me, broad, diffuse lighting such as from a bunch of fluorescents high overhead is the worse possible light at the lathe. Not only does diffuse light hide scratches but it makes it difficult to judge effective the compound curved surfaces we are fond of making. Going to directed, glancing lights made a huge improvement in the quality of the shapes of some of my pieces.

    Some lights at the lathe:
    lathe_PM_cu_IMG_20160331_18.jpg
    I do have high fluorescent lights above the lathes but they are on separate switches and turned on when needed.

    I also like to wipe the surface with naphtha after sanding which dries quickly and leaves no residue. As the surface dries, there are a few seconds where any remaining scratches are highlighted while the damp naphtha is still in the scratch. (The naphtha also gives me a preview of what the wood will look like when oil is applied!)
    I do sometimes wet sand with oil, usually with 600 Indasa Redline Rhynowet wet/dry paper, my absolute favorite for papers from 600 and finer.

    JKJ

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    If you are sure you want a scraper I would recommend getting the Easy Wood finishing tool. The round carbide tip will work as well or better than a regular scraper and sharpening is virtually eliminated. It is a very versatile tool. I suggest the professional level finisher because of it’s extra length.
    I have this tool and though when fitted with a negative rake cutter it works great for resin or resin/wood projects, I've found that I much prefer my D-Way large NRS to this tool for wooden bowls, etc. Much cleaner surface and less prone to vibration or catches.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    98
    Hey John. I joined up to become a supporter and tried to do a search for Lannie Sproul but so far I've come up short. I did an advanced search for his name, unchecking the box that says 'exact match' but nothing showed. Also did a google search. Is there another way to look up members here?
    If the end of the world ever comes move to Kentucky, because everything there happens 20 years later. ~ Mark Twain
    History began on July 4, 1776. Everything before that was a mistake. ~ Ron Swanson
    The economy of what you say lends more to it's meaning than the depth of it's exclamation.
    If you need a tool and don't get it, you paid for not having it and you still don't have it.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by brad hays View Post
    Hey John. I joined up to become a supporter and tried to do a search for Lannie Sproul but so far I've come up short. I did an advanced search for his name, unchecking the box that says 'exact match' but nothing showed. Also did a google search. Is there another way to look up members here?
    Hi Brad.

    I don't remember a Lannie Sproul. Do you know anything else about him, location, etc? Is he a wood turner? I found 11 Sprouls using the member search, some with different spellings, none with first name of Lannie. I assume you suspect he is a member here. Could be be using a different name?

    I don't know of a better way to search for members but someone might. A general member search question might be best asked in the Forum Tech Support area. https://sawmillcreek.org/forumdispla...m-Tech-Support

  6. #21
    JKJ, Brad was responding to John Keeton:

    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    There is a club in Lexington - Bluegrass Area Woodturners. Lannie Sproul is the contact. You can’t send a private message as a non-contributor or I would share his phone number. My offer to visit still stands.
    Brad, Lannie might not be a member here at Sawmill Creek -- you should message John Keeton to get Lannie's contact information.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    98
    Hey John, sorry I probably should have messaged John Keeton like Tim mentioned. Thanks for helping though.

    No problem. A question posted is a question, regardless for who it was intended. Hope you find the person. And thanks for signing up and contributing! If all this were to go away due to lack of funding a bit of the joy of life would go away!
    Last edited by John K Jordan; 10-16-2021 at 1:10 PM.
    If the end of the world ever comes move to Kentucky, because everything there happens 20 years later. ~ Mark Twain
    History began on July 4, 1776. Everything before that was a mistake. ~ Ron Swanson
    The economy of what you say lends more to it's meaning than the depth of it's exclamation.
    If you need a tool and don't get it, you paid for not having it and you still don't have it.

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