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Thread: Heating/Cooling 2000 sq. ft. shop in Southern Indiana

  1. #16
    When you get into the range of 6" duct, things get pretty forgiving. You don't necessarily need maximum efficiency and airflow, just enough airflow and efficiency. You can drive yourself nuts trying to maximize your system. Chances are, whatever design fits and is easy to install will be just fine, and unless the design is really bad, any improvement will be pretty marginal.

  2. #17
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    I have 1200 sq ft with 10' ceilings. 2x6 walls with R-19 and R-30 in the ceilings. Two 18k mini splits on perpendicular walls are what "my guy" (35 years in HVAC) came up with running the math. They have proven to be just great. In your space I might go with 3 units dividing the required capacity.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    When you get into the range of 6" duct, things get pretty forgiving. You don't necessarily need maximum efficiency and airflow, just enough airflow and efficiency.
    Good point. The fact that they were specifying 7 " duct out of the input port may have some bearing on their suggestion.

    Cliff
    The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
    Charles Bukowski

  4. #19
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    I'm going with Oneida on this, with the proviso that you use long radius elbows. And I'd lower the DC to a workable level in the shed so you don't need so much elevation to work on it. Just run straight thru the wall then 90 up to the truss space for your main run.

    Not to throw doubt on your plan, but how long will you be in this shop? You are putting quite a bit of money into it.

  5. #20
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    Well, I've gone without heating/cooling for the past few years and it was sufficient but I'm now ready to address this. I'm adding a partition wall nearly down the center of our building for the workshop. The wall will be 2x6, 16 oc, 12' high (to tie in with the truss). I'll be hanging a door at one end to move between sections of the barn. The shop will have a 40 x 32 space. I'm going back and forth between r-15 or r-23 mineral wool in the partition wall. I'll then need to add framing in between the 8 foot bays to fill with the same insulation.

    After this is complete, I plan to add studs in between the trusses to hang thin gauge metal ceiling before blowing insulation on top to complete the insulated box. Shooting for ~R-30.

    I'm choosing mineral wool because it's less affected by moisture. At some point in the future, I'd like to pull the metal off the outside to wrap with tyvek, reinstall girts and hang the siding.

    Our concrete pad most assuredly doesn't have insulation underneaath, I've contemplated throwing down a vapor barrier and some sheets of OSB in certain sections but it seems silly to only do it part way.

    Would anyone be willing to chime in on the insulation plan? What is the load bearing capacity of the OSB? I have some fairly heaving machinery that's near the top of the scale for woodworking (2k+) and I'd like to add a big arn bandsaw in the future. How chippy is OSB underfoot?

    Any other suggestions, gotchas, things to consider before moving forward? I'm eager to get this done and back to working in the shop and not 'on the shop'.

  6. #21
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    2x6 wall will accommodate the R23 Rockwool or equivalent. Personally, I would not use OSB on a floor, especially when there is heavy equipment involved as well as "rolling things". I'd use actual plywood and for me, I'd do it on sleepers with rigid foam between them. You can get pretty substantial load bearing that way as well as a warmer floor.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    Advantech or the equivalent is pretty nice for shop floors, though I have not got anything nearly as heavy as you have to roll on it. My shop has 1x8 pine and hemlock on the floor, then 2" of XPS foam, and then the 3/4" subfloor sheets held down with screws. Mine are LP TopNotch 350. There are no sleepers in my floor, so it is a bit less cold. I would get a sheet and try rolling your heaviest tool or the one with the narrowest wheels across it and see what happens. I had a table when I moved in that for a while had a dead stacked pile of hardwood lumber on it that was 4 feet high, 2 feet wide and 8+ feet long, plus the bottom was loaded with more wood, so that must have been close to a ton, It was on 3" or so wide 5" or so diameter casters, which helped spread the load a little, but it was still hard to push.

  8. #23
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    I agree, Zachary. Advantec and the LP equivalent are also available in thicker versions which are capable of supporting more load. These variants of "OSB" are made with waterproof polyurethane resin glues as a binder and they also don't tend to chip as easily. More shekels to buy, of course, but really good products.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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