How Do I Make A Copy Of This???

[Cassius Nielsen]

Jacques has the method I would go with if you need an exact copy with the bearing of a bit riding on the edge of the steel piece you have. Then take the piece of mdf/ply that is your pattern and use something like this in a plunge router to make it. https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Rou...2119960&sr=8-2 Make sure you measure correctly, the router bit biting into steel will be a very bad time.

[George Yetka]

I would put a piece of paper over the object and use a pencil to rub the shape. Cut it out and transfer to mdf. Cut it out of the MDF

[Brian Runau]

Related, but a more general question. I know how to make a template to route internal shapes likes this. I would cut out the inside of the shape using a hand held jig saw. My problem in doing this is I get a less than straight edge for the bearing on the router bit to follow. I know there is a better technique than what I am doing. Welcome direction. thanks Brian

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

Does the final product need to be one solid piece, or could you laminate it out of two layers ? top layer, 1/4" thick, has recess cut in it; bottom layer, 1/8" thick, is continuous to form the bottom of the recess...

[Derek Arita]

Derek,

If I understand correctly you are trying to create an exact copy of the « cavity ».

How about a piece of MDF or plywood (1/4 or 3/8 inch) fastened with double sided tape to your master. A hole larger than the router bit will have been drilled anywhere « inside the perimeter » of the cavity. You can then let the bottom bearing follow the surface of the cavity and will end up with a very close - if not perfect - match of the shape. Removing material with a jigsaw within 3/8 inch from the perimeter before using the router would work even better.

If, on the other hand you need to replicate the « fill piece », you can than use an inlay kit and produce the « fill » from the « cavity » produced in step one.

Regards,

J.

Jacques, you've got it! That's what I was thinking of doing. Problem is, the recess is only 1/4" deep. My pattern bits with bearing on the bottom. Maybe I can raise the piece to be routed high enough to keep the bearing + screw from bottoming out.
And, yes John...paper stone hard solid surface would be perfect. Thanks. I've used it before, but couldn't remember what it was called.

[Michael Rutman]

If I understand you correctly, you need the hole to be just large enough for something to fit in and don't need a perfect surface.

I'd suggest removing waste material with a drill press and forstner bits. You'll have little dimples in the bottom so I wouldn't do it if people can see the surface. After you remove the majority you can clean up the line with a standard template and a router.

[Doug Garson]

Jacques, you've got it! That's what I was thinking of doing. Problem is, the recess is only 1/4" deep. My pattern bits with bearing on the bottom. Maybe I can raise the piece to be routed high enough to keep the bearing + screw from bottoming out.
And, yes John...paper stone hard solid surface would be perfect. Thanks. I've used it before, but couldn't remember what it was called.

If by bottom mounted bearing, you mean the bearing is at the opposite end from the shank, the obviously you cannot do a plunge operation. You need a top mounted bearing and a pattern thick enough that the bearing rides on the pattern with only the 1/4" protruding into the workpiece. What's the application? Why does the machine have to fit snuggly into the recess?

[Derek Arita]

If by bottom mounted bearing, you mean the bearing is at the opposite end from the shank, the obviously you cannot do a plunge operation. You need a top mounted bearing and a pattern thick enough that the bearing rides on the pattern with only the 1/4" protruding into the workpiece. What's the application? Why does the machine have to fit snuggly into the recess?

It's a blade sharpening system that has to fit into the recess, with little movement. If I have the plate that fits the recess, would that make making the recess template easier?

[Doug Garson]

Yes, you can use the plate to trace the outline on the template remembering that the inside of the line is just outside the outline of the recess so when you route the recess you must leave the line. That should give you the recess you want. If you really want a snug fit use a several layers of painters tape on the inside of the template. If the fit is too snug, remove one layer of tape and cut again, repeat removing layers until it fits. For added snuggness, you could put some double sided tape in the recess but that might make it difficult to remove the machine.

[Derek Arita]

Ok, cool. Now I have to find out where I can get a 12"x12"x1 1/4" piece of paperstone.

[Doug Garson]

Maybe look for a sink cutout that you can trim to size. Check out kitchen counter installers.

[Derek Arita]

I just bought the Paperstone for the project. I may end up gluing two 3/4" sheets together for weight and stability. I'm hoping that epoxy will be adequate. This is going to interesting...

[Rich Engelhardt]

I would cut out the inside of the shape using a hand held jig saw. My problem in doing this is I get a less than straight edge for the bearing on the router bit to follow. I know there is a better technique than what I am doing. Welcome direction. thanks Brian

Make the template in multiple pieces, use lap joints to join the pieces together.
Since all you're after is the inside, the outside of the template can be any shape you need it to be in order to fasten all the pieces together.

[John K Jordan]

A pantograph can enlarge, reduce, or duplicate a shape at the same size.

Here is one made for pencils.
https://www.amazon.com/Surepromise-P.../dp/B01ALCEPDO
Could trace the outline onto a template then cut the template to accommodate a router or digitize for a CNC.

I have a friend who made a heavy duty pantograph to make exact copies with a router. It's not rocket science.

JKJ

[Warren Lake]

Tool and die maker I knew had two deckel Pantographs. I goofed around with the large one, wicked quality machine. Made me a human CNC and it floated and was so precision id never felt quality like that ever. i think it was six or seven feet tall the larger one.

If you are doing one its one thing if you are doing many then over head router or inverted onsrud are also a choice. im not a CNC guy and dont care about it as much as there are many good reasons for it.