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Thread: Powermatic 3520b quill problem

  1. #1
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    May 2009
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    Powermatic 3520b quill problem

    Tailstock quill seemed to be getting harder to turn recently and yesterday during a deep 3” forestner bit cut it nearly froze up. Took two hands to get it to return. Took the quill out and could not find any gunk or burrs. Cleaned and lubed but little difference in turning difficulty. Placed the quill on the table saw to check for it being “ bent”. Could see a couple of thousands of light in one spot but otherwise seemed to roll smoothly. Read up on other people’s similar experiences but seems perhaps I have somehow bent the quill enough to cause it to bind like this. Or could the lead screw get bunged up and be causing this problem? Any suggestions before I shell out $$ for a replacement

  2. #2
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    So I took things apart further. Removed the lead screw and then attempted to slide the quill in and out. No go! how does one manage to bend a quarter thick wall steel cylinder!? 2HP rotating off perfect center with a large Forestner bit appears to be able to do so. Lesson learned per $100 bill.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Before buying a new quill I would take it to a machine shop to check it out first. A friend had trouble with his 3520 quill, looking on his table saw to us it looked bent. A machine shop told him it wasn't bent but they found a small burr we didn't see and fixed it for him for no charge

  4. #4
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    Is the keyway that prevents the quill from spinning have any deformation on it? https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ill-Locking-Up

  5. #5
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    I covered this in this video https://youtu.be/xfCuTB32RQ8
    God is great and life is good!

  6. #6
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    I cleaned up everything and removed the guide screw before attempting to insert the quill. Goes in a couple of inches and binds quite tightly just like when I was using it. Talked to the powermatic tech and he said that they do get bent. Lesson learned.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    I cleaned up everything and removed the guide screw before attempting to insert the quill. Goes in a couple of inches and binds quite tightly just like when I was using it. Talked to the powermatic tech and he said that they do get bent. Lesson learned.
    I didn't read this entire thread - did you get the quill completely out of the tailstock? I recently refurbished one for someone. I rolled it on a surface plate and with a light behind it to locate the high spot then used files or coarse diamond plate (can't remember) to take that side down a few thousandths, not too much. The block sanded with 400 grit wet&dry paper to smooth. Mounted it in a lathe and spun it while sanding with a strip of fine paper to smooth and polish. Works flawlessly now. The scale and number on the side are mostly gone but not a big loss, considering.

    JKJ

  8. #8
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    Bernie, Do as John suggests and roll it on a surface plate (or on a granite tile - - not as good but better than nothing). Alternatively roll it on your lathe ways and see if it is really bent or if there is just a burr. If it is bent (which I would find surprising unless you have been REALLY overtightening), you can figure out the high spot and try to bend it back. Ideally, use a hydraulic press (or a friend's). Or perhaps use a wide vise with wood to keep it from being marked. Or strike it with a hammer (and wooden cushions). Try to move it just a bit at a time. Don't go "Rambo" on it. While you're at it, perhaps roll the exterior threaded screw on the flat surface to confirm that there is no secondary issue with the screw portion.

    Just a thought...

    If It doesn't work now, what do you have to lose?

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the suggestions but I ordered a new one. I perhaps too hastily presumed it was non restorable. Two reasons , it really bound up tight half way in and there was no bur or rough area, second I had the drill chuck MT slip a couple of times roughing the quill slightly. And since I’m getting a new one I cut the old one and now it makes a easily attached point guide for my older bandsaw. Will do another thread sometime soon about drilling large deep holes on the lathe with forestner bits.

  10. #10
    I assume you're quill was out three inches plus the shake on the bit?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    ...I had the drill chuck MT slip a couple of times roughing the quill slightly. And since I’m getting a new one I cut the old one and now it makes a easily attached point guide for my older bandsaw. Will do another thread sometime soon about drilling large deep holes on the lathe with forestner bits.
    A 2MT reamer can help clean up the tapered socket. I bought this one:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07933VYD7

    I've also used a round file and done it by hand. Best to clean the socket regularly, too.

    JKJ

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Elett View Post
    I assume you're quill was out three inches plus the shake on the bit?
    How did you know?

  13. #13
    Hopefully the new part will fix the lathe,something to watch out for, I wonder how far out is to far,depends on the size of the shaft I guess.

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