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Thread: Best Way To Take off 1/8" End Grain?

  1. #16
    An 18” panel can cut safely on a typical cabinet table saw. The trick is to turn the miter gauge so it runs backwards in the slot. You would need a fence on the miter gauge and clamp the workpiece to the fence. Be sure that clamp face on the trailing edge is above the bottom face of the workpiece so it won’t catch on the edge of the table.

    A big sled would also work if you rigged up some indeed support.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    495
    Thanks all for the suggestions. Initial work with the jointer was going OK, but was slow. I had already chamfered the end to avoid blow out.
    Gaining some confidence I switched to my jack plane. That totally blew out the end. I glued it back together and left it in the clamps overnight. Going to have another go at it today.

    I originally posted from my phone, so initial post was lacking some details as I am not a fan of typing on my phone.

    • The work was/ will be clamped to the front of the bench with the face vice and bar clamp.
    • It is 3/4" pine.
    • I need to remove between 1/8" and 1/4" of end grain (more to take down on one end vs the other) from an 18" wide x 27" long glued up panel.
    • This panel will be a top or bottom of a tool cabinet dovetailed to the sides (I'm building this basically like my Dutch tool chest).
    • I no longer own a table or band saw. I do have a track saw, but wanted to do this project by hand.


    Derek, interesting approach, and that picture is a keeper for next time I need to square up a thin board edge. Might be time to break out and finally sharpen my BU planes. Unfortunately, I only have a BU smoother and jointer. And the Veritas BU jointer doesn't have the flat side all along its length as does the smoother and jack. So I guess I'm going to finally break out the BU jointer and plane it clamped to the bench face as Chris suggested. Since I already blew out the one end and repaired it with glue, I guess I'm going to plane in from end to middle from each side and see how that goes.


    The real thing I need to do is get better at sawing. Though, I guess I am getting better, because before I would have botched the cut such that I wouldn't have had so much end grain to clean up. (Well, at least not the whole length).
    Last edited by Erich Weidner; 09-13-2021 at 2:49 AM. Reason: sp

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    495
    Well the maiden voyage of my Veritas BU joiner went well. In fact it removed the thickness in the end grain very quickly. I was surprised at how quickly in fact.
    This was with the standard blade. I also have the toothed blade, but didn't try that one out.

    The end grain I blew out the other day and repaired with glue didn't survive, so there will be a blemish. Oh well.

    2021-09-12 16.54.37.jpg

    PS. Sorry about rotated image, I always forget SMC doesn't auto rotate images.
    Last edited by Erich Weidner; 09-13-2021 at 11:34 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494
    Erich, that blemish is an easy fix. Remove the area and glue in a patch. Match the grain.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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