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Thread: Older vitamix

  1. #16
    I'm on Warren's side

    pic of a newer Vitamix drive socket:
    drivesocket.jpg
    Notice the metal parts are encased within molded plastic or hard rubber. My guess is the casing acts as the same way as a woodruff key, shear pin or the rubber hub inside boat props, to absorb the shock of a sudden stop. His original looks to be made the same way, but a much older design obviously, with less plastic used. The 'blob' is simply part of what's left of the original plastic casing, and if it WAS intended to absorb a sudden shock, it looks like it did it's job. I'm assuming what looks to be rust IS rust on the parts, so if not caused by a sudden shock, corrosion could have compromised the bond between the plastic and metal...

    Warren- just drill into the 'blob', it's not like you're going to hurt it any more.. my money's on you finding it's plastic or hard rubber...
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  2. #17
    Kev im worried about you if you are on my side. Whats next you start driving old cars.

    Since took a break from cutting the lawn and here is after wire wheel. The drive thing with the splines looks like aluminun but maybe under the wire wheel it will clean up this other metal. Would have been nice if the company just answered my questions.


    P1560255A.jpg

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Peshtigo,WI
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    1,395
    So if the spline hub/coupling was fixed to the blade set with hard rubber or plastic did it shear off(side ways force) get pulled apart or did it twist off? My money id on twisted off. Can't imagine the other two forces in a blender.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  4. #19
    Kev yes the rubber or whatever felt like a car tire. I cant see my post as this thing does at times but forgot to answer your question there. I used a wire wheel better I tihnk than drilling as I do damage with power fools.

  5. #20
    I just started using it as normal and in several seconds it was running but not chopping stuff up. I hae this original thought that the splined part that broke off could be drilled and the other part threaded and a screw put in. Still dont know yet what this was originally.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
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    Warren, in this litigious society we live in today, the company is protecting itself from a potential law suit by not answering your question. If they provide a possible solution, you try it and it results in you becoming injured, they don't want to be responsible or liable for any injuries you might incur.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 09-10-2021 at 10:45 PM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  7. #22
    You mean like Kramer spilling his coffee on himself.

  8. #23
    Join Date
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    FWIW, I've seen more than 1 shaft that twisted off, looking very similar to that.

  9. #24
    thats fine I can accept that and if my german tool and die maker friend was still around id hve a for sure answer by now. Old school trained he could do anthing to .0005 with simple machines. They learned to make stuff square with a file.

    Tell me about the rubber stuff what it is and why its there. I said no way to get it in if one piece but once wire wheel clear that some amount is hollow down the center. If it was all one piece why would they do that and inject rubber in and how could it fill a space like it did both ln the male a female part, you can see that but I bet yo ucant explain it., whats next they machined that space somehow into there? Id say that is impossible. so far to me it looks like it was two pieces some how fastened. I still have to check both with a magnet, for sure if it doesnt stick to the gear side then its two pieces.

    I dont go in for the liability thing cause I dont want to at some point its nonsense and this would be that case, its blender not a shaper jointer table saw or a machine that can be a weapon.

    Maybe cause tooling companies with dangerous stuff have been generous with their time based on my past experience. he conversation went im not talking about that stuff to being very helpful and even send me original drawings for parts from the heads.

    If the magnet doesnt stick ot the gear part that will answer two parts, if it does i still dont see it was one part based on the black rubber stuff inside on both mirror image parts. They did not get that way by rubbing together and wearing that shape into them and I cant see it failing like it was machined that way but more important how did the rubber get in there. I dont see anyone addressing that and im going on logic so have to point that out.

    the lawyer stuff went too far past logical long ago by judges that allowed suits to go on and sometime settle that never should have been.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 09-11-2021 at 9:23 PM.

  10. #25
    stuck a few magnets on the main spindle and they almost lept out of my fingers. On the other part nothing, I thought it looked like aluminum and guess it is. Looking like there was a conspiracy to stick two different metals together in some fashion and ill still go with glue of some sort of glue. F glue on aluminum parts on air planes. This is more like Rubber.

    They made me a nice offer and I said thanks but I still want to know whats going on here and im still shut out of the loop. Next will remove the rubber sleeve on this. Reminds me of the rubber things they sell from Stilletto you put over your wood hammer handles only thinner rubber.

    now im thinking this was stuck with whatever and in time the blade part started to get corrosion on it under the glue so eventually the glue didnt have enough to hold onto.

    The saga continues.

    P1560485.jpgP1560478A.jpg
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 09-11-2021 at 9:28 PM.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Somewhere in the Land of Lincoln
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    Looks like parts are not readily available. This is on fleabay.

    ebay.com/itm/174823427075?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item28b449cc0 3:g:j6gAAOSwSNBg3jZm&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmH p%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSDAeS9EQtjP GVfKXTxF0%252Bjmn4L2LwcPDvxyea40bZe4kIEs%252BqUcpE kxJbhuD1CqfV61ojebAvRxQ2bgPqgTUdP7L%252BeaYs%252Bx T7FUVTPP%252Fs8Deeef%252BiX9rzNEfQSr8untDB%252BIQh %252B0R28lSvnZUEAtMtWJNRqp9w1EKecR89jwljlFKHRw4oZV RLgxfyEe9QFoZINr7dusUOweU56mRxnDk%252BRMbgpGEWWSnN fBExSKxRy3u2eGCS5QXfPhFWUq5IDKm382XHtVCGDhR%252FdR fAWXeRI3lVsRwinwMFeBja9aaDRoDBvhe3oNX25mZf7R5qxi0A nCZ4B3LLa5%252BG%252BQhGXZoxE48UmCeZ2GXgA7vBhRC134 GQadU6Br7W83JAv2SxmAk8GQUWz8alvPbwllebUBAfV4mFYgzF siGAnNqmojRL02ieCIppMlh6TzWvmxkwPylHUEuy5BqRv%252B 9qHvJAXVtNUFHU9XngE2TayfC%252FAZLNpXNwndAkiCrGnh7f dnCOIw4w8UYW7s2oKB%252B0nDSS9PNcXmFOOVPgMG1Lkz%252 FM9067xBrGLROnKd2NaFt%252FhBoP9uLDaYwIFXZ3uGGrjP21 GMgjQvi6HwZhmF%252FqSQ6TbKdU%252BYDq1ljkYT0vdOYOAI sM6KPRkYzCndZKEnZHRPSs4U99EJS8%252FI%252BrrAbcBE6u 5HSi280EkPXfIbiEUJxUcExooo%252B8RvmOGLzG8iebIImyx2 e3f26UAmOxRbtfTfzqb7QK8P4AL0Z7Cr0dYO9zPUXJHdRKpcGY 3pY4RBqP7ypeLB8ff1V0VXot1%252BOjIN5%252BG1xTq5VKAa oHnsn6CoTcn%252Bvq1Xn9A%252BfisEblAJzJUrDw58eGwA%2 53D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

  12. #27
    I tend to forget about Ebay for parts but should pay more attention to it. looks like from what I see they have changed the system and not likely to find parts for this older model.

    I just went at the broken off part with an exacto knife so here is the rubber removed and cleaned on a wire wheel. Clear is this was not one part, clear is that they were not mirror image parts as I thought but rather two male convex parts that were joined together by rubber of some sort. Im thinking now it was injected in through the hole in the spindle part. I guess its sort of like rubber body mounts in a car though also different as its active in motion and under torque loads and likely some pretty heavy with frozen stuff going in.

    Id say this failed cause of corrosion, the pitted area which is about half was rusted again and first photo is after the wire wheel. Second as i was cutting it apart and also shows the rust after two days. Phosphoric acid would shut that down.



    P1560510A.jpg P1560496A.jpg
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 09-13-2021 at 1:04 PM.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    stuck a few magnets on the main spindle and they almost lept out of my fingers. On the other part nothing, I thought it looked like aluminum and guess it is. ...P1560478A.jpg
    Many grades of Stainless Steel are non-magnetic (see 'austenitic'), others are magnetic (ferritic), and some are very weakly magnetic. 304SS is austenitic, and due to its relatively low cost is very commonly used in consumer-grade food-contact applications. Based on a number of factors - from chemical composition, to welding, to forging - 304SS can be either magnetic or non-magnetic. It can even spontaneously change from non-magnetic to magnetic at low (below heat-treat) temperatures.

    No clue what you have, but a simple pass with a file will tell you if steel or aluminum.

  14. #29
    the only stainless part is the blender jar, its not a concern and likely stainless is better than plastic that will haze in time or glass that is not safe around me. Its clear what the parts are, its clear why it failed and clear it was not one shaft that twisted apart. Ive sent them what ive found so far.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
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    I just looked at my Vitamix 3600 which is vintage like yours and looks near identical. There appears to be a cap head screw holding those two pieces together on mine. The black dot in the center of your cleaned up blade assemble should be the sheared off screw if I am correct.

    Sorry I don't have a camera handy for a quick picture.
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 11-09-2021 at 1:31 AM.

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