Martin T17 Joinery saw back in service

[David Kumm]

Typical Joe work. My regret is that you aren't 20 years older than me and wanting to downsize. Dave

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Joe!

[Joe Calhoon]

Typical Joe work. My regret is that you aren't 20 years older than me and wanting to downsize. Dave

Only working part time solo now Dave and figuring out I could get by with less space and machines.

[David Kumm]

Only working part time solo now Dave and figuring out I could get by with less space and machines.

I'm getting into metal working ( to fix old machines ) and finding it interesting but those machines take up some room. Dave

[Mark Hennebury]

Great job Joe! You have done a great job on all of the details right to the last one. excellent!

[Patrick Kane]

I forgot to ask, what is the paint code? Is it RAL 5021?

Do those flap wheels remove any appreciable amount of metal? I assume they come in varying grits.

[Joe Calhoon]

Thanks Mark! Your thread on your T17 breakdown was a great help on this.

[Joe Calhoon]

Patrick, yes that is the correct code- Water Blue.
Martin changed it slightly earlier on. It can look different in photos depending on the lighting.
The flap wheels can remove metal in the rougher grits. I tend to use 120 and higher

[Tom Bussey]

Does the saw have Babbitt Bearings? is that why you need the oiler? Don't get me wrong , Nothing wrong with Babbitt bearings. Just asking because I am interested.

[Joe Calhoon]

Does the saw have Babbitt Bearings? is that why you need the oiler? Don't get me wrong , Nothing wrong with Babbitt bearings. Just asking because I am interested.

Hi Tom, no it has sealed bearings. Originally it had bearings with zerks. On the advise of several people I went back in with sealed bearings. The saw has 3 speeds 2800/4000/5500 to handle large blades, small blades shaper cutters, adjustable groovers and dados if desired. The bearings are fairly substantial.
The oil system is to lube the ways mostly for the saw raise and lower. Here are pictures of the oil lines.
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[Correy Smith]

Hi Joe thanks for posting so many detailed pics of your T17.
A friend just gave me one recently. It's in fair to good shape.
Some or all of the electrical is not working. I believe the last owner just used a knife switch between his phase converter and the main motor, gasp! There was a 4 pole male receptacle mounted in a box I guess he used as a disconnect. I wired up the same way for my pigtail and the motor came on when I plugged in. If I had been even looking at what he had done bypassing all switches I would have know that before plugging in. Alls good and safe, at least I can confirm that the motor worked and no awful sounds emitted. I am not seeing any replacement switches on line that match the part numbers on the originals. Or at least the newer versions of the same switch do not appear that they will fit the original face plates and such.
The saw has a scoring motor as well. May be just a bit older than yours as it has the wooden fence attached.
I would be quite quick to just put a VFD on it if anyone( you) thought that would be a easy fix. I don't intend to wire up or use the scoring unit.
Couple of questions other than switch if you have a moment to offer your thoughts....

Was removing the arbor bearing very involved? Seems like this may have been a "feature" on this saw to be able to easily replace the bearing. I have the original wrench with the saw, seems one end is a spanner type but missing the pins. I am assuming this fits the inside flange.

Do you think it's possible that your machinist friend could make another dado nut? I have the original arbor nut and outside flange. I need to be able to dado with this saw.

Grease zerks, I see a coupe zerks one on the arbor bearing, I will replace with sealed if removing the flange and bearing is doable. Other wise I'd replace or clean the zerk and give more grease? Should I squirt some sort of degreaser initially to free up any old grease prior?

I have everything moving pretty good, tilt, height, spindle locks, table. There is light surface rust on the tilt ways that has been clearing up with repeated movement and wd40. Whats the goto for this type of clean up? Your flap sander on rotary tool?

I will also like to re do the oil lines, mine are located by back door. Seems easy enough. What would one call the out feed port of the lines for google searching a replacement? I may just be able to blow them out. I am guessing the line is a small surgical type hose?

I was half looking for a large table saw for power feeding and this fell off the truck. But starting to liken to having an extra slider around makes a cool compliment to the scm 10 footer. It has a patina for sure. pretty much the same as when you first got yours. Except the controls seem faulty. The push button switch does not give any continuity from one side to the other. And not getting any continuity thru the main switch either. I didn't bother to look at momentary scoring buttons. There is a largish what seems to be a transformer or a start ramp up? just before going to the main motor. I am not getting continuity thru that either.... Just seems new controls would be easiest that replacing original parts... unless you know the right place?

Ok, sorry to drawl, lol last thought.... I was a little bummed to realize the arbor was 1.25. I may either get my 12"x1" blades reholed to 1.25 and then bushing on 1" abor or if for who knows why the arbor needs replacing on the T17 have the new one spun up at 1". But seems silly to reduce the size of the arbor on this saw. Is it costly for a new arbor? I don't want to have to retool yet another table saw in the shop.

Thanks again for posting so many great pics, between you and Mark it's a pretty through overview of this model.

[Joe Calhoon]

Corey,
You will like this saw when you get it operational. It has become my all around saw for different tasks and in a retirement shop could picture this as my only saw. They are solid, vibration free and dependable stops for square that are repeatable.

The arbor is easy to pull and if you have the spanner wrench that makes it easy. I had to make my own.Just remember it’s a left hand thread. Don’t ask how long it took me to figure this out…. For this saw Martin had a pre made arbor package when bearings went out to make the change quick. This is no longer available. Do not even think about having an arbor made if yours is OK. Just change bearings if needed. No big deal to have blades bored to 1.25. This saw will sink a 12” blade below the table but not a 14 like my T72. With the 1.25 shaft you can run shaper cutters and large groovers. The arbor nut is still available from Martin. I’ll get you a part number. It’s the same as the T72 era.
do you have the arbor dado extension? Please post a picture of your saw.

For rust without taking things apart and using Evaporust, WD40 with scotch bright works good for light rust. The tubing for the oil lines is metric size available from McMaster.

Sorry no help on the electrical. So far this one is ok. On the T23 shaper I was able to find some of the no longer made German electric parts on EBay.

I liked the fence with wood bottom on my old T75. Did you get the setting gauge with it? Mine has a newer type fence similar to the T70s.
it’s long and I haven’t restored it yet. For the time being I put a Felder short fence on. It’s marginal but easy to take off and walk around.
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[Bill Dufour]

Never seen a one shot oiler on a wood working machine. Looks like a good idea. Do you give it a pull before every day or what?
Bijur is the name brand for metal working machines. They come manual or even automatic that can give a pump every few hours or whatever time.
"Metering units" are the restrictors that control flow to each nozzle. They come in different flow rates, more flow for bigger bearings. They often get clogged and are not really possible to be cleaned out.
Bill D.
https://bijurlubrication.com/?gclid=...QaAqlBEALw_wcB

[Bill Dufour]

Be careful with the one shot lubricator. There is no good way to verify each metering unit is not working. Look at the part each one lubes from time to time and make sure it looks wet with fresh oil.
Bill D.

[Joe Calhoon]

Bill, for the one shot oiler a couple pumps per week if the shop is busy. All the Martin machines have these either with the pump or a press. Their press is a pain to use. This is light oil like 20 wt and just for ways and moving parts. It doesn’t clog up.
my straight line rip has a automatic oiler similar to Bijur using a heavier oil. This has also worked well with the only problem after 20 years is some of the plastic tubing rotted out.