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Thread: Hammer K3 Winner 48x48 thoughts?

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Toronto Ontario
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    10,832
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Wurster View Post
    A feeder can indeed be added to the rear of a K3. I don't have a feeder myself, but I'm pretty sure other K3 owners on here have shown pics of their feeder setups.
    I have a B3, the feeder is flipped up on mine now as I’m ripping flooring…..Regards, Rod

  2. #62
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    Feb 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Dean View Post
    Thanks Derek. Since you also work mostly in hardwoods, I’d be interested to know which saw blades you purchased with the the saw, or after the saw from an after-market dealer. Also, I like the idea of building a router table onto the outfeed. What did you use for the build, if I may ask?
    Howard, while it is tempting (for those who can) to continue to use 10" saw blades, there is an advantage in using good quality 12" blades. These will cut at the correct speed and offer a significantly greater depth of cut.

    I purchased two blades for the K3 from another company, and Felder threw in a third with the saw. The blade they provided a 48-tooth combination blade by Stark, an Italian manufacturer. The two blades I purchased were a 28-tooth rip and a 96-tooth crosscut, both by Leuco.

    Of importance, the blades are all 3.2mm wide, which matches the standard riving knife. This also means that the ZCI I made works with all the blades.

    The Stark is an incredible blade and mostly lives on the K3.

    Link for ZCI: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...mmerK3ZCI.html

    There are articles on my website in regard to the K3 and other Hammer machines: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...ery/index.html

    The router table build is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...Adventure.html

    .. and here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...augeTrack.html

    The aim of the router table was to build something of quality without too much outlay. I use one infrequently. The essential parts are an Elu 177e router (I like Elu and have a bunch of them), an aluminium insert plate, a Router Raizer lift, and a MuscleChuck. There are plans for the fence, which I built from scratch. I would argue that this compares well with set ups in the range of 3 or 4 times as much.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #63
    Many thanks Derek. I really appreciate you (and others) taking the time to provide very useful information. I mainly work with thicker lumber and am looking forward to using the 12” blade. I’ve seen some amazing reviews regarding the PC Saw Blade Silent-Power Diamond 12 “ blade. Very pricey ($590 US) but produces (according the reviews) phenomenal cuts and is purportedly 50% quieter than other blades. The Felder website “guarantees” no kickback. I’ll ponder the information over the weekend. I have two quotes to think about (79x48 and 48x48). I’m now leaning towards the latter, for reasons I’ve stated earlier (mainly work in hardwood, can edge joint using a track saw, can use a track saw to break down sheet goods, smaller shop size, and fully anticipate using the saw as a regular cabinet saw with cross cut capacity). Above all else I’m looking forward to having a shop again! Hauling portable tools out on the roof deck is a pain, especially when it’s cold. Last weekend I had to clear about a foot of snow off the deck and wear heated gloves. But I think the experience has made me a better wood worker. I’ve been making things for as long as I can remember. Had to take a hiatus for a couple of years due to a serious health issue. Then the pandemic reared its ugly head. I used the opportunity to really study wood, woodworking, hand tool usage, etc. Before, I just made stuff without really understanding theory and fundamentals — but I somehow managed to do pretty well. Always trying to learn ….

  4. #64
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Dean View Post
    Many thanks Derek. I really appreciate you (and others) taking the time to provide very useful information. I mainly work with thicker lumber and am looking forward to using the 12” blade. I’ve seen some amazing reviews regarding the PC Saw Blade Silent-Power Diamond 12 “ blade. Very pricey ($590 US) but produces (according the reviews) phenomenal cuts and is purportedly 50% quieter than other blades. The Felder website “guarantees” no kickback. I’ll ponder the information over the weekend. I have two quotes to think about (79x48 and 48x48). I’m now leaning towards the latter, for reasons I’ve stated earlier (mainly work in hardwood, can edge joint using a track saw, can use a track saw to break down sheet goods, smaller shop size, and fully anticipate using the saw as a regular cabinet saw with cross cut capacity). Above all else I’m looking forward to having a shop again! Hauling portable tools out on the roof deck is a pain, especially when it’s cold. Last weekend I had to clear about a foot of snow off the deck and wear heated gloves. But I think the experience has made me a better wood worker. I’ve been making things for as long as I can remember. Had to take a hiatus for a couple of years due to a serious health issue. Then the pandemic reared its ugly head. I used the opportunity to really study wood, woodworking, hand tool usage, etc. Before, I just made stuff without really understanding theory and fundamentals — but I somehow managed to do pretty well. Always trying to learn ….
    Howard, I went through the same thought process before ordering mine. I went with the 79 because I thought with the projects I have in mind the longer stroke would be useful. Now I'm not so sure, but six month wait time is bound to cause some second guessing.

    I can squeeze the 79 in, so even if it isn't useful, it will be just another in a long line of extravagant woodworking purchases. But I'm still reasonably confident it will be useful.

    I'm also hopeful this will be a saw that lasts me into my 70s. Truth be told, the quality worries me more than the stroke. Hopefully I get a good one, and not one. There have been a lot of manufacturing issues, it seems like, since the pandemic began.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Howard, while it is tempting (for those who can) to continue to use 10" saw blades, there is an advantage in using good quality 12" blades. These will cut at the correct speed and offer a significantly greater depth of cut.
    I agree with this 100%. When I originally got my slider, I continued to use the same 10" blades I had been employing with the cabinet saw that preceded it. It worked fine it seemed. A few years later, I invested in essentially identical blades but in 12" format. There was a noticeable difference in cutting and yea, having that extra depth of cut came in handy once in awhile. While I had to sell the slider this past summer when I moved into a temporary shop space, I kept the blades and they will be once again used when I get a shop building up and a new slider in place.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #66
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    The issue with 12” blades is that the scoring saw blade must be removed.

    I have one 12” 48 tooth ATB that I use for deep cuts in solid wood, the remainder are 10” FSTools blades, work great and allow me to keep the scoring blade mounted…..Regards, Rod.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    The issue with 12” blades is that the scoring saw blade must be removed.
    Very true for some saws and has to be taken into consideration since one may or may not want to have both 10" and 12" blades.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Helensburgh, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Dean View Post
    Many thanks Derek. I really appreciate you (and others) taking the time to provide very useful information. I mainly work with thicker lumber and am looking forward to using the 12” blade. I’ve seen some amazing reviews regarding the PC Saw Blade Silent-Power Diamond 12 “ blade. Very pricey ($590 US) but produces (according the reviews) phenomenal cuts and is purportedly 50% quieter than other blades. The Felder website “guarantees” no kickback. I’ll ponder the information over the weekend. I have two quotes to think about (79x48 and 48x48). I’m now leaning towards the latter, for reasons I’ve stated earlier (mainly work in hardwood, can edge joint using a track saw, can use a track saw to break down sheet goods, smaller shop size, and fully anticipate using the saw as a regular cabinet saw with cross cut capacity). Above all else I’m looking forward to having a shop again! Hauling portable tools out on the roof deck is a pain, especially when it’s cold. Last weekend I had to clear about a foot of snow off the deck and wear heated gloves. But I think the experience has made me a better wood worker. I’ve been making things for as long as I can remember. Had to take a hiatus for a couple of years due to a serious health issue. Then the pandemic reared its ugly head. I used the opportunity to really study wood, woodworking, hand tool usage, etc. Before, I just made stuff without really understanding theory and fundamentals — but I somehow managed to do pretty well. Always trying to learn ….
    Every claim for the diamond blade is correct, mine lives on the saw permanently because changing it throws all the measuring tapes out of calibration and the riving knife has to be changed. What it won't do is bevelled cuts/mitre cuts as it flexes too much. I have a range of blades from different European respected brands and if they are kept sharp they all perform well. Derek's comment on the Stark blades reminds me of the blade I ordered for my small mitre saw and when it arrived I saw that it was a no name blade made in deepest China. I nearly threw it in the bin but gave it a go and it is the single best blade I have ever used after the diamond blade on the K3 so you can never tell.

    The best thing you can do from the get go is don't use the right hand side of the blade for cutting, learn what the left hand side can do and you will be surprised at how little you use the right hand side. Another plus of the diamond blade is the no chip cut on laminates.
    Last edited by Chris Parks; 01-15-2022 at 8:13 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  9. #69
    Join Date
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    I had not ever heard of diamond toothed blades for use on a table saw then stumbled onto this YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyDjod56UJg&t=469s

    He does a great job reviewing the Felder blade. Almost convinced me to buy one.....

  10. #70
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    Dec 2006
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Mac View Post
    I've seen feeders attached, but I know less about the saw than you probably do. The saw won't be here until March, so I'm going to try and learn all I can in the interim.

    First thing will be figuring out a mobile base. The Hammer one looks kind of clunky and not useful for small spaces.
    I really like the Hammer mobility kit, easy to use, stable, self locking.

    I often use a feeder on the saw.

    Regards, Rod
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #71
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    Dec 2007
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    Kansas City
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    What are the essential tools to ensure I get my slider calibrated correctly?

    My longest straight edge is 36. And I don't have a level that's any good. What should I be looking at to get this thing set up correctly?

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Mac View Post
    What are the essential tools to ensure I get my slider calibrated correctly?

    My longest straight edge is 36. And I don't have a level that's any good. What should I be looking at to get this thing set up correctly?
    Don't even think about touching it until you have proof something is wrong. When that time comes you will need several things, multiple dial indicators, some metric combination spanners and a few days to fix what you wish you hadn't touched. Been there and done that. What appears to be a simple adjustment mechanism is anything but as you try to work out how the six bolts actually achieve what you want.
    Last edited by Chris Parks; 01-17-2022 at 8:31 AM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Don't even think about touching it until you have proof something is wrong.
    ^^ This...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #74
    Many thanks to those who responded to my many queries regarding the Hammer K3 Winner. I went back and forth over the weekend on whether to purchase the 48x48 or the 79x48. Ultimately I chose the latter, for the following reasons: (a) the difference in price was "only" $1,000, and the 79x48 comes with a ton of extras; (b) there have been too many times when I opted for the lesser tool, only later to wish I had purchased the bigger, more powerful or more feature-packed tool; (c) my wife and son want to learn how to use a table saw and I would much rather that they work exclusively to the left of the blade (i.e., out of harm's way); and (d) I will have lots of cabinets to build for the new house. Total cost of package deal is about $3,000 less than purchasing each item separately (there will be a price increase March 1). This includes cost of delivery (about $450). No taxes. Very excited, but will have to wait until August -- which is fine because the house is still being built and I do not currently have a work shop.

    Package
    -Single Phase 230 Volt (+ - 10%) 60Hz 4Hp Motor.
    -Rip capacity 49”
    -78” sliding table
    -Dado prep
    -12” universal saw blade
    -Scoring blade
    -Professional rip fence with large round guiding bar
    -Scoring unit
    -Outrigger table
    -Cross cut fence for outrigger table (51”)
    -Cross cut fence for sliding table (35”)
    -Miter index system
    -Extension table

    Accessories
    -Mount rail
    -Fine adjustment for rip fence
    -Telescopic extension
    -Quick connect reducer
    -Lift bar
    -Rolling carriage
    -10” universal saw blade
    -12” PCD silent power diamond blade

    Howard Dean

    "Love the hand that fate deals you and play it as your own, for what could be more fitting." Marcus Aurelius

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Congrats on figuring out your configuration, Howard!

    You bring up a good point about packaging. Both Hammer and SCM/Minimax seem to have a similar approach...opting for the "next better" configuration can net a whole bunch of desirable goodies/options that have to be ordered and paid for separately for the "lower" configuration and the net cost of opting for "next better" is often surprisingly minimal. My own consideration has been affected by this for a new slider once I have a building up. It's far better financially, IMHO, to "get the goodies" up front for only a small uplift in initial cost.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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