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Thread: Moving Martin T75 Saw

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Whitehorse, Yukon
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    72
    Patrick ... I think your saw may well have a scoring saw on it!
    Note the hole above the adjustment wheel.
    That's where the rod and knob for the scoring height adjustment goes.

    You're possibly missing some parts, but if that price on there is correct, no worries!
    You do have a miter gauge too .... lucky @$##!

    Nice score!!

    And as to that rigger, that may be the best $300 you'll spend since you bought the saw!

    I foresee many hours of your time being consumed by perusing over Patrick Walsh's excellent restoration of his T75.....

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
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    Jim, you better believe it. Ive only called one other rigger before to move a T72A in long island at an IRS auction. They wanted $3,000 to show up and move the saw from a loading dock to a trailer. I cant believe my luck on the price and showing up 3.5 hours after calling them. I tipped the employee--who was fantastic--and called the company owner to profusely thank him. If you are in Pittsburgh, J Poli comes with a high recommendation after this morning.

    Unloading was pretty uneventful. The Texan ushipper showed up and it looked like he blew his transmission. It was smoking and spluttering, and he was cursing the topography of southwest PA. The rigger showed up about 45 minutes later, and we got to getting the saw off the trailer. Unfortunately, the shipper had the saw flat on the deck. It was also positioned squarely between the wheel wells. Between a johnson bar and the forklift, we got the saw up enough to get my pallet jack under it. I was then able to back it towards the back of the trailer and prep it for side loading with the forklift. At this point, just about every neighbor had their head in a window or over a fence. The guy from the rigging company was a pro from that point forward. Grabbed the saw and drove it around the block to my driveway and up close to my garage. My deck extends over the driveway and garage, so he had to drop it there and we rolled it into the garage on my pallet jack. I gave the guy a big tip and we had a laugh about how screwed i would have been without the forklift. I want to clarify, that is because of the height of the gooseneck trailer, and that it was directly on the deck. The saw isnt that large, nor is it crazy heavy. Its pretty similar in size to my Felder KF700. It 'feels' similar in weight to the T17 that i just moved over the weekend. I think 2,000lbs is accurate for this era of T75.

    SITREP: It looks like i have most of the bits and pieces? I spent 3-5 mins going over things, and i think i have it all and then some extras. I have several crosscut fences, a miter gauge with a short crosscut extrusion, two rip fence extrusions, a butt bar, sliding table auxiliary support table, and then another cast part that i am unsure of its purpose. I think it might have to do with the outrigger support arm. Some cool bonuses to me are this saw is the same vintage as my T17, which means i can reverse engineer the rip fence indicator. I have no idea how this happened, but my T17's rip fence is missing the indicator/pointer, and ive been noodling how to replace it. Now i have the actual part to copy! It also means i have a spare crosscut fence for my T17. The T75 has the standard 6.5hp motor, same as my T17. No scoring motor, but no surprise there. The table got caught in a little drizzle this morning heading from Ohio to Pittsburgh, so i have some surface rust on the table. I already quickly scrubbed at that with mineral spirits and a green scotchbrite. After work today i will go at it with more care to prevent anything worse than surface rust. The one thing i immediately noticed is im missing the brass rip fence scale! Why on earth would someone remove that? It is riveted to the machine in multiple places and had to be some effort to remove it. Its not just something that falls off. The stick on scales are kind of cheap, and now i need to think about having a brass scale etched and how stupid expensive that might be to replace. Finally, the sliding table feels pretty good? I dont know if im the right person to diagnose the condition/wear of the table and carriage. It isnt as smooth as my Felder Xroll, but i retracted it all the way and wiggled it side to side without any play. I think Warren previously suggested that to test the wear in the ways. I will take a dial indicator to it when i have time this week.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Whitehorse, Yukon
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    72
    After looking at the pictures again, I totally missed that the saw only has the one set of start/stop switches!
    So obviously no scoring.

    Glad it went well with the unloading!

  4. #34
    That's pretty awesome. I'll bet money that your brass scale was sold or scalped to use on someone else's project machine. No real reason to remove it, otherwise. Keep us updated on the progress.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
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    1,242
    Quote Originally Posted by Gustav Gabor View Post
    Patrick ... I think your saw may well have a scoring saw on it!
    Note the hole above the adjustment wheel.
    That's where the rod and knob for the scoring height adjustment goes.

    You're possibly missing some parts, but if that price on there is correct, no worries!
    You do have a miter gauge too .... lucky @$##!

    Nice score!!

    And as to that rigger, that may be the best $300 you'll spend since you bought the saw!

    I foresee many hours of your time being consumed by perusing over Patrick Walsh's excellent restoration of his T75.....
    Haha, good eyes on that photo. I paid the price on the machine and not half off that listed price, but yes, it was a good buy for me even with the rigger and hauling cost. I just deleted that photo in case i have to sell this saw one day. I always try to never post prices, because ive resold stuff for a profit in the past, had people recognize it was me, and then send me ranting emails about unethical behavior. I hope it doesnt come to selling either Martin, id love to have them look half as nice as Walsh's and be back to back. Would be a prime centerpiece for any shop.

    Oh yes, i went to bed in a sour mood last night, and i could not have been happier after that 7:30am phone call with the rigging company. I think im more excited about the rigger than the saw, to be honest. There is always something with moving machines like this that ends up as a knock-down-drag-out fight for me. God, i hope to own a proper fork lift one day.

    I need to check on the riving knife in the T75. The T17 is missing the riving knife, but has the bracket. A new knife from Martin USA is like $130, which is a little crazy, but thats the way it is with this company, i presume. One initial observation is how pitiful the stock crosscut extrusion and stops are. I need to price out a Felder crosscut fence extrusion and stops. The one on my KF700 is immensely nicer and more robust than what i received this morning.

    I followed along with Patrick's thread years ago. Its an unbelievable restore. I assure you i am not as manic as he or Mark. Those guys are just next level on the details.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,659
    I'm glad it all worked out so smoothly in the end, it's nice to have a happy outcome.

  7. #37
    My rule of thumb is if the grooves worn in the v-ways are >1/16" the carriage probably has some slop, but a dial indicator and straightedge will tell the true story. I believe Patrick Walsh turned his ways over and re-bonded them with some exotic spooge. Congratulations on the score.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,392
    Glad it worked out Patrick! Looks like you have all the important parts. The brass scale on my T17 was so worn it was almost unreadable. I ended up taking it off and putting on a metric- imperial stick on. My T72 has a nicer scale in a holder that I may upgrade to at some point. Curious what the small piece on the crosscut table with the spring is?

    I just put the finishing touches to my T17 restoration this week. It was a 7month part time job. Was easier than the T23 shaper though.

  9. #39
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    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
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    Nice, post some photos of the T17! Did you paint it blue to match the shaper? I’m tired of 60s/70s green and I’m going blue/teal if I ever repaint these. Of the two, I am more excited about the T17. It seems like the perfect compliment to a contemporary slider. The outrigger and crosscut extrusion on this t75 leave a lot to be desired. It’s not the heft and build quality I expected. The rest of the machine is 10/10, even for being 50 years old. I will be stoned for saying it, but the outrigger and fence on my 2004 KF700 is more impressive than this design and build. Except for the cantilever outrigger support beam. The felder’s kind of sucks and this one rides on bearings and feels like it could support 200-300lbs no problem.

    Joe, I have no clue what the part with a spring is or does. I picked it up and looked at it for a bit after work and I don’t have a guess.

    Kevin, my grooves are 3/16” wide. There’s definitely wear. This weekend I should have time look it over closely and see what I have. The T17 had very slight dishing of the table top near the throat plate. Maybe dished .002-.003” in that area. I expect there will be some level of deviation on this 75 from the years of use.

    I lightly oiled the ways of the sliding table and that made a huge improvement on how smoothly and quietly the table rolls. Generally, I think the whole thing needs some TLC, because the blade height adjustment was extremely tight, but loosened up with some usage. I assume that will be much better with lithium sprayed on the motor mount ways. I really need to buy an oil gun too, because the whole machine has numerous oil ports.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    I repaired patrick’s outrigger and it was a brick house after that. I believe he posted photos of the modification.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    My rule of thumb is if the grooves worn in the v-ways are >1/16" the carriage probably has some slop, but a dial indicator and straightedge will tell the true story. I believe Patrick Walsh turned his ways over and re-bonded them with some exotic spooge. Congratulations on the score.
    This was the "exotic spooge" Patrick used on his Martin. I asked him about it when I was replacing the laminated ways on my shaper. McMaster has it in stock. You don't need nearly as much as I bought. I used a tiny amount and the bottle had a relatively soon expiration date (6 months Iirc) I also misread the catalog (from my phone) and this part number didn't include the activator. The small kit would likely be enough.
    20200324_204741.jpg
    Last edited by Jared Sankovich; 08-31-2021 at 8:27 AM.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    1,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    Nice, post some photos of the T17! Did you paint it blue to match the shaper? I’m tired of 60s/70s green and I’m going blue/teal if I ever repaint these. Of the two, I am more excited about the T17. It seems like the perfect compliment to a contemporary slider. The outrigger and crosscut extrusion on this t75 leave a lot to be desired. It’s not the heft and build quality I expected. The rest of the machine is 10/10, even for being 50 years old. I will be stoned for saying it, but the outrigger and fence on my 2004 KF700 is more impressive than this design and build. Except for the cantilever outrigger support beam. The felder’s kind of sucks and this one rides on bearings and feels like it could support 200-300lbs no problem.

    Joe, I have no clue what the part with a spring is or does. I picked it up and looked at it for a bit after work and I don’t have a guess.

    Kevin, my grooves are 3/16” wide. There’s definitely wear. This weekend I should have time look it over closely and see what I have. The T17 had very slight dishing of the table top near the throat plate. Maybe dished .002-.003” in that area. I expect there will be some level of deviation on this 75 from the years of use.

    I lightly oiled the ways of the sliding table and that made a huge improvement on how smoothly and quietly the table rolls. Generally, I think the whole thing needs some TLC, because the blade height adjustment was extremely tight, but loosened up with some usage. I assume that will be much better with lithium sprayed on the motor mount ways. I really need to buy an oil gun too, because the whole machine has numerous oil ports.
    Patrick,
    I did go with the water blue to match my restored T23. I will post about it when I get a chance. The groves in my T75 were about 1/8” wide. I think 3/16 might be OK. I had the fence like your on my T75 and did not mind it but for sure most modern fences are better. Did you get the fence setting gauge?
    my T17 came with their first version of the 2 point fence. I get that those are more accurate but prefer a solid fence. I put a Felder short fence on mine but will eventually get something better that has fine adjust.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
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    1,242
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Patrick,
    I did go with the water blue to match my restored T23. I will post about it when I get a chance. The groves in my T75 were about 1/8” wide. I think 3/16 might be OK. I had the fence like your on my T75 and did not mind it but for sure most modern fences are better. Did you get the fence setting gauge?
    my T17 came with their first version of the 2 point fence. I get that those are more accurate but prefer a solid fence. I put a Felder short fence on mine but will eventually get something better that has fine adjust.
    I think Peter has the only other blue T-17. Im hoping to cobble together a used Martin line up for the big 4 machines in my shop, and id like them all to match one another. The only problem is, it looks like Martin tweaked their blue from the mid 90s-early 2000s to the contemporary blue/teal. It could just be the photos, but the first blue they went with looks darker and more blue than the teal of the 2010s. Ive never seen a martin in the flesh, and i cant tell if my eyes are playing tricks on me with the blue in photos. I have the paint code from Martin USA, it is RAL 5021.

    What does the fence setting gauge look like? I do have this stamped aluminum thing with slots cut in it that i have no clue of its function. I just priced up Felder's crosscut fence last night, and was pleasantly surprised. With the 102" version, extension, and two stops, i think it was right around a grand. They offer a shorter fence around 42" that is cheaper. I need to measure if the 42" would hit the ground when the T-17's table is folded down. That might be a reason to go with a shorter fence. My only complaint against Felder's crosscut fence is the flag stops. Like you mention, they dont have microadjust, they arent dead nuts square to the outrigger table, and i am so fearful of bumping them too hard. I treat my current Felder's crosscut stop like a porcelain doll. Just over the weekend i cut a few small walnut island tops to length and width on the slider. I moved each 3'x3'x1.5" piece to within 1/8" of the stop, and then ever so carefully wiggled it into position so it was ever so slightly kissing the stop. Its fine, i am tender with things when it is warranted, but i can see those stops getting the snot beat out of them in an actual shop. Funny enough, there is a listing on woodweb for some zimmerman equipment, and in the background of the bandsaw photo, you can see the back end of a T17 with a Felder fence on it. Looks like most folks came away with the same impression that i did, the OEM fence sucks.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    1,392
    Patrick,
    here is the fence setting gauge. Should be a couple holes in the saw blade end of your fence. Plug this in when resetting the fence to keep stop accuracy.
    D1160312-1757-41E2-B92D-F6AB469758E8.jpg
    The short Felder fence will hit the floor when the T17 table is folded. You can slide it up in the air but I usually remove it.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    I made a stop system for the Wadkin mortiser using a linear rail, linear bearings and an air clamp system which operates by opening with a push button. I built a flip down stop for it and installed a micro adjuster.

    You could build something similar and mount it on top of an aluminum extrusion. Would be much better than any other stop I’ve seen on a woodworking machine, IMO.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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