Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 20 of 20

Thread: "The Porter" 16" jointer

  1. #16
    Many of the old jointers will remove 3/4” or 1” in one pass. Manufacturers have cut way back…. like the top of spinning knives isn’t always
    to be used by the skilled and sober. Straight-line saws are good IF you have a helper …or just like to take long walks. And have the space.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    Babbitts are a frame of mind thing. If you are the type of person who doesn't mind oiling them and can keep track of when you last did it then you'll be fine. If not then you're like me wondering if I need to add oil while using the machine. It's like the older chainsaws with the manual bar oiler. I always ended up giving it a squirt of oil sooner than needed and would use a tank of oil to a half tank of gas. If you don't want to deal with it then I would convert it to high quality bearings and be done with it. For me the upfront pain would be worth it so my mind would be 100% focused on the piece of wood I was pushing through it.
    They self regulate, you don't have the option to add more if you want. Just top of the oil cup periodically, it'll run for days or maybe even weeks with one fill, and forget about it.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,533
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewart Lang View Post
    I had a 16" Moak jointer at one point and also restored a 16" Crescent. I like to take pride in my machines, so I say if you're going keep it for an extended period of time, then restore it and paint it. You'll be pleased with it every morning when you look at it.

    I had a Byrd Shelix put in the 16" Moak. Byrd will custom make any head, so you can easily have one made for Babbit bearings. The only thing is there's probably a 50% increase in the amount of force it takes to push boards over it. So running a 15" wide board of any hardwood pretty much requires you to put your whole body into it. So keep that in mind. It's still worth it I think, but it's something to be aware of. I absolutely hate changing straight knives.
    I’d rather fuss with knives and a dial indicator for an hour or two than have to push my whole body into it unsafely.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    556
    Blog Entries
    1
    Anderson Ranch has a Porter that has a helix head retrofit in it. I have no idea if the original babbet bearings are present or not, but that jointer is both a thing of beauty and an incredible jointer. Congrats on getting an amazing machine.

    I'd put a segmented head in it. Once everything is aligned and set up, you will enjoy this machine for the rest of your shop life.

    Mike

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    If you go insert, look at the Hermance head but the large diameter straight knives will do a great job and with two dial indicators you can set them in less than 30 minutes if you are slow. Dave

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •