Dust Control Remote

[James Baldwin]

Hi, Got a question about a dust control remote. I purchased one of these off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also picked up three extra hand units. It worked fine for a while then quit so I picked up another one thinking that it wore out. The new one is the same unit. When I installed it it sees to only be providing 110v and I'm running 220v. The first one run 220v with no problems. I haven't had a chance to look at it closer yet and trouble shoot it either. I had watched a YouTube video on how to do this originally. Jim

[Paul F Franklin]

First thing to check is to make sure you have 240 at the input terminals. If not, then the problem is in the wiring before the unit. Have you tried flipping the breaker off and back on?

[Malcolm McLeod]

First thing to check is to make sure you have 240 at the input terminals. If not, then the problem is in the wiring before the unit. Have you tried flipping the breaker off and back on?

^+1
It would be much easier and safer to test this via continuity - if it had separate Logic power and simple switched contacts, but it (apparently) derives logic power from the input terminals.

So:

1. Disconnect the load side wiring.
2. Cycle the input power; make sure relay is 'off'.
3. Test for 240V on the input terminals (L in to N in) - (...'Ni' is really L2 for 240V)
   
   • If not 240V, then investigate the supply CB
   
   
4. Test for 240V on the output terminals (L out to N out) - should be no voltage
   
   • If there is voltage, then relay contacts may be welded?
   
   
5. Activate the remote and verify the relay clicks, or "Ti Ta" as per the seller; looks to be an LED indicator = lit(?).
   
   • If not active, the remote may not be sync'd properly.
   
   
6. Test for 240V on the output terminals (Lo to No) - should be 240V
   
   • If 240V, then disconnect power and reconnect load, power it up and try again.
     
     • If it fails with a load on it, the relay contacts may be damaged from excess load (despite claims of 40A rating). Replace relay.
     
     
   • If not 240V, test Lo to Ni for 240V
     
     • If 240V across these, the No terminal/contact is shot. Replace relay.
     
     
   • If not 240V, test No to Li for 240V
     
     • If 240V across these, the Lo terminal/contact is shot. Replace relay.
     
     
   • If 0V, then relay coil may be shot. Replace relay.

I think this will get you in the right ballpark... and hope you have a meter.

[James Baldwin]

I was able to spend a little more time troubleshooting the remote control. As of right now I have 220v going in and coming out. The way I set it up was a male plug with about a foot of 10/3 cord then the remote control and last about a foot of 10/3 with a female plug. When I hit the remote to turn it on I have 220v at the female plug like it's suppose to. When I hit it to turn it off it shuts the female plug off like it's suppose to. So that tells me it's working like it's suppose to. Now when I plug in the dust collector with the remote turned off nothing happens like it's suppose to. The problem is that when I turn on the dust collector with the remote off the dust collector starts immediately and it starts on 110v and not 220v. If the remote is in the off mod there shouldn't be any power going to anything but there seems to be. Jim

[Robert Hayward]

Sounds like one leg of your remote is letting voltage through even though it is in the off position. I would check each terminal on the load side of your remote to see if voltage is present with the remote off. Sounds like your remote is switching line side only. Much like a standard 120v household light switch does.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Sounds like one leg of your remote is letting voltage through even though it is in the off position. I would check each terminal on the load side of your remote to see if voltage is present with the remote off. Sounds like your remote is switching line side only. Much like a standard 120v household light switch does.

Certainly sounds like it.

... when I turn on the dust collector with the remote off the dust collector starts immediately and it starts on 110v and not 220v. ...

Not following this. How are you turning on the dust collector if not with the remote? How does the single No (out) 'hot' leg complete the circuit? ...Assuming this IS the case; via the GND?!? To safely assist, I'd need more info on how and from where you have any & all power supplied to the DC starter and any switching other than the remote relay.

Add step 4. b. & c.:

... 4. 'a.' Test for 240V on the output terminals (L out to N out) - should be no voltage

• If there is voltage, then relay contacts (both) may be welded?

b. Test from Lo to Gnd

• Should be 0V (sounds like this is true?)

c. Test from No to Gnd

• Should be 0V.

...

If N(out) is hot to ground with the relay 'OFF', I'd highly recommend you find a different solution, other than the linked remote relay.

[John K Jordan]

(I didn't review the remote you are using so maybe this is covered.)

Is the remote receiver able to supply the current the DC needs? Larger dust collectors are typically powered by a contactor (relay) that is controlled by the remote receiver. This allows a small current to switch a large current to the DC. Also, the voltage controlling the contactor is independent of the voltage to the DC. My cyclone system uses 110v to switch 220v through the relay to power the 5hp motor.

The contactor is in the box in the middle, power to the DC is from a breaker in the subpanel on the left. DC is powered through the receptacle below the contactor. The 110v control line from the remote receiver comes in from the bottom, through a switch that lets me disable the remote while I'm in the closet emptying the bin, etc.