Making a bed post and the top cracked while screwing in the bed rail fastener plates.
Anyone disagree that I've got to make a new leg?
The wood is sapele if anyone thinks that matters.
20210822_184326.jpeg
Making a bed post and the top cracked while screwing in the bed rail fastener plates.
Anyone disagree that I've got to make a new leg?
The wood is sapele if anyone thinks that matters.
20210822_184326.jpeg
Inject some glue, remove the screws, then clamp it shut. Why waste a finished leg?
Oh, and use a properly sized countersink bit when you screw the hardware back in.
In addition, someone once posted that you can use a shop vac to suck glue into cracks before clamping. I tried it once and it worked.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
I would drill into the crack for a dowel to ensure a good glue joint ... inserting-it about a 1/4" below the surface ... then glue-in a hole-plug with the grain going in the proper direction. For an insurance: install a 2nd dowel going cross-grain ... under the other plate.
It's hard to see how long the leg is, but, I'm guessing it is the foot post and not the headboard post. If you have the wood, make a new leg or better.......a new pair of legs. The short amount of grain above the mortice/screw would give trouble in the future...good to happen now...make that area taller to give more strength....There is a lot of racking force for being so close to the top of the post..... Use this leg to maybe find a proper/ better diameter pilot hole. Sapele can be very splintery..and screwing that close to the end is looking for trouble down the Road......my 1 3/4 cents
Last edited by joe maday; 08-23-2021 at 8:29 AM.
I wouldn't, keep it open like that or open a little more then push glue in using compressed air and a low setting, clamp....Done...
I try to only buy the screws that have the vertical slot cut in them. They are far less likely to split the wood.
I'm not in any way a furniture maker, but I'd guess this is another reason to use rift sawn material for legs in addition to creating a consistent appearance on the faces.
As for edge grain, drilling a cross hole for a dowel to take the screw threads is a really good idea.
If you drilled a pilot hole it was improperly sized. When ever screws are put in that close to the end of a piece you run the risk of the wood splitting. Screws tend to act like wedges when there is no pilot hole or it is too small. Even the so called self tapping wood screws can cause split ends.
I drilled a pilot hole, but I think it was 1/16 or so too small. Lesson learned!
Before I built another leg, I would route a groove across the crack and insert a matching piece of sapele.
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Is this something you are building for yourself or for a client? If for a client I'd make a new one, if for myself I'd repair as others have suggested, inject glue, clamp, drill correct size pilot hole and reinstall screws. Alternately, I assume this is the top of the leg, any chance you can patch the holes, flip it to the opposite corner where the patches would not be noticeable?
The client is my wife. She'll be ok with it. It's for a modern bed (headboard attaches separately) where all four legs are the same. I'll hide this one back by my head where no one will notice it.