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Thread: Issue with blade marks with Makita track saw

  1. #1
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    Issue with blade marks with Makita track saw

    I have a Makita SP6000J track saw that's a few years old and has gotten quite a bit of use. I always use it with one of my Makita tracks. One thing I've never been able to figure out is why I get these blade marks on the very first cut, which is usually only 1/4" deep or so. I've made certain that all the knobs are tight and there's no play in the saw sliding on the track. The rest of the cut depths rarely give me any issues. I do 1/2" passes at most in hardwood. This happens with new blades as well. Photo is attached showing the blade marks at the top. It really makes sanding the edges a big pain and I end up with slightly convex ends. Any advice?? Thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    I'm having trouble picturing the blades rotation on that picture. Is the top side the top with the saw going left to right? If so (and maybe even if not) if the blade is new (or the behavior is present with multiple blades) my guess is bearing wear although the pattern seems awfully consistent for that. I would do d rigorous alignment check and possibly adjust where necessary.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 08-21-2021 at 9:57 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Good catch. I should’ve mentioned… I had flipped the top over, so this picture is actually upside down. So the saw was actually traveling from the right side of the pic to the left side.

  4. #4
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    Looks like your blade is dull.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  5. #5
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    I agree. I also have a Makita track saw with a fairly new blade and it does not make marks like that. It might be time for a new blade.
    David

  6. #6
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    I'm not familiar with the Makita track saw, but since you mentioned that it happens with new blades, as well as older, could you be using the wrong style blade for the job? I have a Festool EQ55 and blade selection matters. I've produced very similar marks in hardwood with it when I was too lazy to change from the blade I use for plywood .

  7. #7
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    What blade are you using for that?
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
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  8. #8
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    Bennett, or anyone for that matter; enlighten me as to why you take multiple passes? If I do that on my table saw, I'll get the same results. Why make a shallow cut, and then another pass? Seems to me you are wasting time. Most circ. saws are designed to make the cut in one pass.
    My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Eure View Post
    Bennett, or anyone for that matter; enlighten me as to why you take multiple passes? If I do that on my table saw, I'll get the same results. Why make a shallow cut, and then another pass? Seems to me you are wasting time. Most circ. saws are designed to make the cut in one pass.
    I'm wondering that myself. I have the makita and take full depth passes. I've buried the blade 2" when ripping 12/4 boards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Eure View Post
    Bennett, or anyone for that matter; enlighten me as to why you take multiple passes?...
    I'm guessing because a dull blade (or one with too fine a pitch).
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  11. #11
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    A potential few issues I see from the pictures:

    1 blade is toed in / out causing the first pass to result in those circular marks - check blade parallel alignment to track edge
    2 blade is dirty, causing overheating and the burning - clean the blade
    3 blade is dull, causing overheating and the burning - try a fresh blade
    4 you shouldn't have to make so many passes - that saw should be able to handle a near 2" deep cut in hardwood with a proper fresh blade without burning
    5 the horizontal lines are likely caused by the blade not set at a dead 90deg to the material - you shouldn't have those lines if the track remains in the same position between passes
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  12. #12
    Is there any slop on your track slot? Is it possible user error / torquing the travel slightly side to side?

  13. #13
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    Mine doesn't do that. Is it possible making so many passes, one after the other, the blade is getting hot and warping, causing a burn?

    As others have mentioned, what blade? Rip? How many teeth?
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 08-22-2021 at 4:00 AM.
    Rick Potter

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  14. #14
    I don’t know that saw, but is it possible that you have adjusted the track play one way at the front of the saw and the opposite way at the back, causing the saw to toe in (or out) of the cut?

  15. #15
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    Check your rail , Makita rails are know for not being quite straight. If it’s straight , then your saw is toed in or out.

    And if that’s a rip cut , you need to use a rip blade - 10-14 teeth. The stock blade is the wrong tool for the job and a 28t is still too many from ripping hardwood.

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