Mechanic for wide belt sander wanted

[Jonathan Jung]

Recently acquired a SCMI Uno which I don't know if/how well it runs. I'd like help getting it running. Does anyone know who can service these machines that is cheaper than an SCMI tech?

I can hire a local industrial electrician, but would rather have someone who knows the machine. That's my hope anyway.

The machine is getting good power and air supply, but something is causing it to not start up. My local commercial electrician was by today, looked at it briefly, and said that he thinks a safety switch was killing the power, not letting it start up. He pressed an override button and the motor turns a bit, so that's good.

If I can fix it myself without much hassle, great. But if looks to be complicated I'd rather get someone who knows what they are doing, and just get it going.

[Jonathan Jung]

Why did this get moved to classifieds? I'm not selling anything or buying anything from a member. I'm just looking for advice.

[Jim Becker]

I'm guessing because the word "hire" was used...I'll move it back.

Jim
Forum Moderator

[Albert Lee]

Recently acquired a SCMI Uno which I don't know if/how well it runs. I'd like help getting it running. Does anyone know who can service these machines that is cheaper than an SCMI tech?

I can hire a local industrial electrician, but would rather have someone who knows the machine. That's my hope anyway.

The machine is getting good power and air supply, but something is causing it to not start up. My local commercial electrician was by today, looked at it briefly, and said that he thinks a safety switch was killing the power, not letting it start up. He pressed an override button and the motor turns a bit, so that's good.

If I can fix it myself without much hassle, great. But if looks to be complicated I'd rather get someone who knows what they are doing, and just get it going.

I have a SCM dual sander. looks like this 334326955.jpg

If your machine is similar to mine, then I maybe able to help.

There are many reasons that your machine didnt start, one of the reason thats common could be the belt sensor got blocked or faulty sensor, this is visible as you open the side access hatch.

One way to test if your sensor is faulty is to put your hand between the sensor and the belt when the machine is powered and aired, if the belt head twitches as you put your hand between the sensor and the belt, then they are fine...

or could be dirty/blocked pneumatics

Let me know how you get on.

[Jonathan Jung]

I have a SCM dual sander. looks like this 334326955.jpg

If your machine is similar to mine, then I maybe able to help.

There are many reasons that your machine didnt start, one of the reason thats common could be the belt sensor got blocked or faulty sensor, this is visible as you open the side access hatch.

One way to test if your sensor is faulty is to put your hand between the sensor and the belt when the machine is powered and aired, if the belt head twitches as you put your hand between the sensor and the belt, then they are fine...

or could be dirty/blocked pneumatics

Let me know how you get on.

hi Albert, thank you. Mine has air tracking, but does have electric sensors for belt travel to shut the machine off if the belt oscillates too far.

I lived in Dunedin quite a long time with my wife. Miss it.

[Kevin Jenness]

I would call around to millwork and cabinet shops in your area for recommendations, also used machinery dealers like Barbo https://barbomachinery.com/.

There are online services like indeed.com that hook up freelance pros with clients, you could also try posting on woodweb.com for an independent woodworking machinery technician.

The best widebelt info I have found online is at the SurfPrep website. It might be worth contacting Adam West there for advice. https://surfprepsanding.com/about-us-2/team/

If you can find an electrician familiar with controls they may be able to diagnose your problem without actually knowing your specific machine. My panel saw had been bastardized and the magnetic starter bypassed because of an access door safety switch malfunction, and I was lucky enough to find a freelance electrician with the skill and interest to fix it quickly, but you have to find the right person. Some shop in the Seattle area surely has been through the same scenario- start there.

[Erik Loza]

I would call around to millwork and cabinet shops in your area for recommendations....

This is great advise and what I would do ^^^

In my experience, you might need to actually go and walk into these shops in order to get anywhere. Most owners or staff are generally not super-interested in helping random people (sorry, just being honest) solve problems like this. LOL, they are usually too busy just trying to manage their own staff problems. It is a lot harder for them to ignore you if you are standing there. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.

Erik

[Malcolm McLeod]

...If I can fix it myself without much hassle, great. ....

1. Do you have the OEM electrical schematics? ...In a PDF?
2. Do you have a decent* quality multi-meter and basic familiarity with it?

3. Does it look like any of the electrical system has been modified by a PO? ...Wires pulled out of duct/spiral wrap? ...components that don't match? ...new+old screw holes in the electrical back-panel?

...Let's start with these.


*- this might be a good start for someone wishing to trouble-shoot their own equipment.

[Jonathan Jung]

I would call around to millwork and cabinet shops in your area for recommendations, also used machinery dealers like Barbo https://barbomachinery.com/.

There are online services like indeed.com that hook up freelance pros with clients, you could also try posting on woodweb.com for an independent woodworking machinery technician.

The best widebelt info I have found online is at the SurfPrep website. It might be worth contacting Adam West there for advice. https://surfprepsanding.com/about-us-2/team/

If you can find an electrician familiar with controls they may be able to diagnose your problem without actually knowing your specific machine. My panel saw had been bastardized and the magnetic starter bypassed because of an access door safety switch malfunction, and I was lucky enough to find a freelance electrician with the skill and interest to fix it quickly, but you have to find the right person. Some shop in the Seattle area surely has been through the same scenario- start there.

That's a good idea. I'm having my Klingspor rep ask around for me, since he knows everyone that has a WBS in my area. And he's a really nice guy and friend of mine.

I've actually spoken to Mike at Barbo about buying a new machine. I'll reach out to him again.

A couple months ago I spoke with Adam West at SurfPrep. He was very helpful but very hard to get ahold of, and didn't seem interested in being flown out to service my machine. I'll try again.

There's a local company, Keithly, that services the industrial electrical field. I've reached out to them, but have heard they are very expensive.

[Malcolm McLeod]

...If you can find an electrician familiar with controls...

Might find this by looking for Systems Integrators. Talk to your local Allen-Bradley or Modicon (PLCs) distributor, they can steer you to the SIs. An SI will have both panel technicians and engineers capable of working on nearly any such 'automated' machine - even if in this case, where the automation is typically relay-based, rather than a PLC.

SIs also work closely with industrial electricians (in different companies), and SI may be able to steer you to such.

Figure >$150/hr for Engiees, $75-100/hr for Panel Tech, $50-80/hr for Electrician (at least around here; you may find there's a west coast premium??).

[J.R. Rutter]

These guys are authorized West coast service for SCMI: https://www.theservicegroup.us/ I used them to swap out the factory control board / VFD on one of my shapers a few years ago. Unfortunately, you are probably going to be paying travel time for anyone non-local that comes to work on it.

But it does sound like a limit switch or E-stop might be bad if the motor isn't energizing. I assume that you have air hooked up, and at high enough pressure? If not, it won't start. Also check for blown fuses, and blow out and manually cycle the contactors in the electrical system just in case. Sanders especially can be prone to dust build-up if the previous owner didn't have enough dust collection. That's about the extent of my troubleshooting knowledge...

[Malcolm McLeod]

I probably should have prefaced my questions with an actual offer.... I'd be glad to attempt to walk you thru trouble-shooting, and have >30yrs of systems integration and controls experience. I helped Mr. James Baker "SD" (...dearly missed here, and why I joined SMC!) do a DIY fix of his home elevator.

But as with Mr. Baker, to help remotely, I need electrical schematics and you need a multi-meter. If you do decide to pursue this as a DIY effort, let me know if I can assist.

[Jonathan Jung]

I probably should have prefaced my questions with an actual offer.... I'd be glad to attempt to walk you thru trouble-shooting, and have >30yrs of systems integration and controls experience. I helped Mr. James Baker "SD" (...dearly missed here, and why I joined SMC!) do a DIY fix of his home elevator.

But as with Mr. Baker, to help remotely, I need electrical schematics and you need a multi-meter. If you do decide to pursue this as a DIY effort, let me know if I can assist.

That is very kind of you. I do have a Fluke meter and all the electrical and parts schematics from SCM. I'll likely look into together with my father and your assistance, since neither of us have deep knowledge of these systems. How can I contact you?

[Jonathan Jung]

These guys are authorized West coast service for SCMI: https://www.theservicegroup.us/ I used them to swap out the factory control board / VFD on one of my shapers a few years ago. Unfortunately, you are probably going to be paying travel time for anyone non-local that comes to work on it.

But it does sound like a limit switch or E-stop might be bad if the motor isn't energizing. I assume that you have air hooked up, and at high enough pressure? If not, it won't start. Also check for blown fuses, and blow out and manually cycle the contactors in the electrical system just in case. Sanders especially can be prone to dust build-up if the previous owner didn't have enough dust collection. That's about the extent of my troubleshooting knowledge...

Hey JR great to hear from you on here. I didn't know you still were active on here. Thank you for the referral! I've contacted them and have spoken with Cody the owner. He says he can help, the initial meeting will be diagnostic, with a minimum charge of 4 hrs at $145 an hour, and he's confident he can fix it in those 4 hours unless something major is wrong. They're local in Arlington which is nice, so there won't be additional travel charges.

I think I'll do some simple investigating like you suggest, since I have the schematics, a good volt/ohm meter, and some potential help from Malcom. The machine has good 130psi to it, which is more than enough as it requires 6 bar / 87psi.

[Albert Lee]

hi Albert, thank you. Mine has air tracking, but does have electric sensors for belt travel to shut the machine off if the belt oscillates too far.

I lived in Dunedin quite a long time with my wife. Miss it.

wow Dunedin! out of all the places!

I lived in Dunedin for for a while too. nice little township.