EVS drill press

[Tai Fu]

If it's really a big issue then get a bed mill, not a knee mill (as it can still deflect somewhat from moving the knee and all that depending on the gib adjustment).



Or if drilling holes is all that matters to you one of these ought to do the job:


Machine is about 2 meters tall and that column is big enough for you to give it a bear hug if that is what you fancy... You can literally drill a 1" hole into 1" thick steel plate like it's nothing. Not even a milling machine can do that in one go (it can drill some decent holes but you have to use a boring head to expand it to the right dimension to not only get accurate hole with perfect roundness but also takes less power than drilling it all at once). But on the bright side, wanted to drill that hole on the workbench and don't feel comfortable using a hand drill? This thing should do the job. You can just about move that workbench under this machine's spindle.

[Joe Calhoon]

For woodworking my dream drill press is one from Hess in Germany. Last time I looked about 6K plus shipping.

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[Tai Fu]

If I had 6000 dollars to spend on a freaking drill press, I'm buying a knee mill.

It does everything this Hess drill press and then some. Can machine stuff if you need to fix or manufacture parts...

The new to me bandsaw had a bunch of broken screws and whatnot. Having machining capability allows me to restore the machine to its original condition, and possibly allow me to add some safety feature too.

An old bridgeport can be had cheaply if your shop can allow for it...

[Andy D Jones]

Charles,

The Voyager uses 2 more amps @240VAC than the PM uses @120VAC. The sticker on my Voyager lists Full Load Amps at 15/10 amps @120/240 VAC. That's compared to 8 amps @120VAC (per the manual) for the PM. This is a 7 amp difference (15 vs 8) between the two machines at the same voltage, not 2 amps.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Charles Coolidge]

Charles,

The Voyager uses 2 more amps @240VAC than the PM uses @120VAC. The sticker on my Voyager lists Full Load Amps at 15/10 amps @120/240 VAC. That's compared to 8 amps @120VAC (per the manual) for the PM. This is a 7 amp difference (15 vs 8) between the two machines at the same voltage, not 2 amps.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

Their website clearly states 10A at 110V for 1.75HP. Powermatic spec's 1hp at 8 amps which agrees with HP to Amps calculators by the way. The Nova claims to get 1.75hp from only 10 amps so a 75% increase in power with only a 25% increase in amps. Fishy but lets continue.

Now it gets weirder...

At 220V they claim the motor draws 10A-15A which is quite odd. Doubling the voltage typically lowers the amp draw for the same hp. Yet its still drawing 10A at double the voltage for 1.75hp? And 15A at 2hp 220V? Wow so at 15A at 220V that's double the voltage and 50% more amps for only a .125% increase in hp 1.75 to 2hp. And yet they claim how super efficient DVR is at saving energy.

Lets ignore their double talk for a moment.

Since a 1hp milling machine can hog through just about any material describe the drill press job where the Nova's supposed extra power will be used. Keep in mind their site also clearly states the computer controlled motor will only draw the amount of energy needed. So that extra .75hp to 1hp will never be seen by the spindle unless you have a drill press job that exceeds 1hp.

I'm not trying to pick on the Nova here. Power ratings are fudged industry wide. My supposed 3.25hp router motor claims to achieve 3.25hp at 120V with 15A when even at 100% efficiency hp calculators say that would require 23amps. Yet I'm running it on a 15A breaker and it doesn't trip the breaker. Oh wait...lol

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[Brian Holcombe]

I already addressed all of that is my previous post.
The only point I was attempting to make was ,
You can chase the elusive .000infinty or you can adjust things as close as you can (as your tools/budget permit) knowing that there will be movement afterwards. Also knowing that any misalignment of .oowhatever more than likely won't make any difference at all in the cut or the final product.The difference between .005 to .007 is not going to matter in most woodworking situations
If (in the perfect scenario) I drill the perfect hole in a piece of wood, it's only perfect for an instant. The fact that there is now a hole has changed the internal stresses of the wood, it has allowed ambient humidity in, it may have weakened the wood and so on and so on. It is now, no longer the perfect hole one worked so hard to achieve.

So, sure, you can separate machine setup from wood movement, I agree but where do you stop? When does it become not worth it to align your tool to machinist levels, knowing that after any alteration, whether it be planing, sawing or drilling, the material itself can change. Is it a thousandth, a ten thousandth or a hundred thousandth?

Also drill presses are named such, because here in the states they resemble the look of an arbor press. Other places they are often called pillar drills. Meaning the word press isn't a part of the name or description of the tool.
The bit should cut the wood with minimal effort, which is partially why most woodworking drill presses are less than 1HP. There is no need to have a table built like a bridge or any need the pull with all your might causing bit or table deflection. If you're seriously worried about the table or head deflecting due to too much force being applied, it's either the wrong tool for the application or you're using the proper tool incorrectly.
Remember, woodworking

Do what suits you. .005-.007” runout is a lot to me, I usually like parts to fit to closer tolerances than that for the work I do.

A simple procedure of plugging a hole, as example, .005” large on the hole and the plug installs with a visible glue line. If this is ok for you, I have no problem with that.

I like things built heavy not because I am trying to force anything, rather it is becuase I do not like delicate tools which are generally louder, cannot support heavy material and vibrate more.

As example I was working 10’ long, old growth 6x6 posts with my Wadkin mortiser recently, using a 1” square bit. Try that with a ‘good enough’ powermatic. I used the machine to cut 1” mortises in maple also. Perfect results.

[Brian Holcombe]

For woodworking my dream drill press is one from Hess in Germany. Last time I looked about 6K plus shipping.

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Fantastic looking drill press. Flott is in the same range but less useful for woodworking.

[Joe Calhoon]

I was impressed with it Brian. Spent some time looking at it and a lot of clever features- mechanical read outs, air clamp and the fence system.Yes strictly woodworking but would be a quick setup for a lot of projects. Especially chair making. I don’t see one in my future but think about it when drilling angles .��

[Brian Holcombe]

Yeah, that looks especially useful for chair making/custom furniture.

[Brian Holcombe]

If it's really a big issue then get a bed mill, not a knee mill (as it can still deflect somewhat from moving the knee and all that depending on the gib adjustment).



Or if drilling holes is all that matters to you one of these ought to do the job:


Machine is about 2 meters tall and that column is big enough for you to give it a bear hug if that is what you fancy... You can literally drill a 1" hole into 1" thick steel plate like it's nothing. Not even a milling machine can do that in one go (it can drill some decent holes but you have to use a boring head to expand it to the right dimension to not only get accurate hole with perfect roundness but also takes less power than drilling it all at once). But on the bright side, wanted to drill that hole on the workbench and don't feel comfortable using a hand drill? This thing should do the job. You can just about move that workbench under this machine's spindle.

Ive seen Deckel style mills cut similar sized holes without blinking. A knee mill is not super rigid but a Deckel mill is.

[Charles Coolidge]

If it's really a big issue then get a bed mill, not a knee mill

A bed mill with box ways will get it done. Been there done that on a knee mill, bought it, cussed it, sold it.

[Andy D Jones]

Charles,

It looks like you've found a mistake on Nova's website. Like I said, the UL-required sticker on my machine states Full Load Amperage is 15A at 120VAC or 10A at 240VAC. Their manual does not mention current for the different voltages, except for recommended rating of surge protectors, and in notes on a diagram for the input power wiring. From the diagram, the internal fuse appears to be rated at 15A regardless of whether the machine was assembled with a plug for 120VAC or 240VAC. When the Voyager is powered by 120VAC, the controller/motor is capable of 1.3KW (1.75HP) output.

The Voyager's input power feeds the controller, which rectifies and filters it to DC, from which the controller generates the motor drive waveforms for the speed requested and physical load present.

The DVR motor itself is slightly akin to a stepper motor, and is capable of 1.5KW (2HP) output only when the controller is powered from 240VAC. The many poles of the DVR motor, produce far less torque ripple than a DC motor at very low RPM, rendering a multi-speed, mechanical transmission unnecessary. The DVR motor also maintains more output torque than conventional 3-phase motors at low frequency/RPM.

To change voltages, you literally just change the plug to one that will plug into the desired voltage receptacle. There are no jumpers to move to convert from 120VAC to 240VAC operation, like there are with induction motors (where windings are re-jumpered to handle the different voltage).

Dual voltage AC induction motors draw roughly half as much current when jumpered for 240VAC than they draw when jumpered for 120VAC, because they consume and produce the same power (wattage and HP) at either voltage for a given mechanical load.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Charles Coolidge]

Andy the manual states "Rated power output 1250 watts, 1.75 HP" which is still fudging it but close enough I guess. Meanwhile I noticed Powermatic's web site shows the EVS table only tilting 45 degrees, Powermatic this is for you (face palm).

[Andy D Jones]

Andy the manual states "Rated power output 1250 watts, 1.75 HP" which is still fudging it but close enough I guess. Meanwhile I noticed Powermatic's web site shows the EVS table only tilting 45 degrees, Powermatic this is for you (face palm).

Yeah, manuals for products produced in the far east are not known for completeness or accuracy. At least the grammar in both these manuals appears reasonable (rather than some translations from Chinese to English I've seen).

I also noticed the Voyager "Rated power output" spec, but output power is mechanical power.

Input power (electrical) = output power (mechanical) / efficiency.

But we don't know efficiency either, unless we back it out from output power, given input FLA @ VAC.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Charles Coolidge]

Yeah, manuals for products produced in the far east are not known for completeness or accuracy. At least the grammar in both these manuals appears reasonable (rather than some translations from Chinese to English I've seen).

I also noticed the Voyager "Rated power output" spec, but output power is mechanical power.

Input power (electrical) = output power (mechanical) / efficiency.

But we don't know efficiency either, unless we back it out from output power, given input FLA @ VAC.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

Speaking of that SawStop manuals are insanely good. Easily the best manuals ever for anything I have purchased in the past 40 years, that good.