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Thread: What wall material for new shop, what about slatwall?

  1. #1
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    What wall material for new shop, what about slatwall?

    I am in the process of building a polebarn, inside I am sectioning off a 20x30 shop area I will build walls, insulate etc. Two questions.

    What did you use for the wall sheathing, I was thinking of going with plywood (poly it, easy to hang stuff etc), however the cost is crazy! How does drywall hold up? I can get 5/8's drywall for a 1/4-1/3 of the price.

    I have slatwall in my garage and love it, I was thinking of running it around my shop, does it work well in a wood shop? Should I run it all the way around or just a small section? I see Menards has a good deal on made in America slatwall, anybody have any ideas how it compares to other brands?

    The sides of the room that go up to the exterior wall, if I can't afford spray foam what is the next best idea? if I put a thinner styrofoam outside of the studs and fiberglass in between would that get a lot of the effect of sprayfoam?

  2. #2
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    I only have it on one wall, but really like it, and like the look. If possible, I would have used more.

    I bought the Rubbermaid FastTrack version. Certainly not cheap, but well built.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
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  3. #3
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    Honestly, if I were doing this at the present time, even with costs coming down, I'd also consider drywall with a French cleat system for wall storage. In a post frame structure, one can also plan the horizontal girt spacing and sizing to reflect what you want to hang that has weight, too, just like you might use blocking in a regular stud wall.

    For your insulation, closed cell spray foam has the best structural benefit, but many post frame structures no used as living space are insulated with R19 fiberglass and a vapor barrier between the girts. (interior girts don't go in until the insulation is done. The insulation is sized to span between the posts and special large head fasteners are used to hold up the 'glas by engaging through the insulation to the exterior girts. Ceiling gets blown-in insulation over a vapor barrier that's placed prior to the ceiling material of choice. Personally, I'd prefer spray foam, but have no issue with the fiberglas, either. I'll actually be making this decision at some point when I get a building up.
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  4. #4
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    This is a metal building, not a traditional polebarn, so no upright 6x6's like a polebarn.

  5. #5
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    Being way the heck North in Michigan (near the thumb, and my favorite, Bad Axe), insulation is going to be very important for you in winter. Jim's advice, as always, is quite good for the insulation. I think that's more important than the slatwall. And I forgot to mention French cleats, which is another great idea for adjustable/versatile storage. You could always do the drywall and put slatwall on top of it, if that's what you like.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cody michael View Post
    This is a metal building, not a traditional polebarn, so no upright 6x6's like a polebarn.
    Similar techniques can be used, however. (I'll be doing the comparison between metal and wood post frame myself...cost is what's going to matter at that point as I'm fine with both and both tend to be less money than stick-built) With the metal building I'd think I'd prefer the closed cell spray foam envelope because the "walls" have a lot less space than wood post frame. There extra rigidity benefits are going to be more noticable, most likely and for sure it's helps eliminate the condensation issue that can happen with metal buildings...metal or wood frame, for that matter. With about 2.5" or so of space in the walls of many of the metal structures (I'm assuming car-port type, but if it's red iron, I apologize) the closed cell foam will get you nearly to R18. You can do the same up-top or got a little thicker. No need for a ceiling, either. Just make sure the mixture has the fire retardant and there's no issue with your local jurisdiction with it being exposed.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Similar techniques can be used, however. (I'll be doing the comparison between metal and wood post frame myself...cost is what's going to matter at that point as I'm fine with both and both tend to be less money than stick-built) With the metal building I'd think I'd prefer the closed cell spray foam envelope because the "walls" have a lot less space than wood post frame. There extra rigidity benefits are going to be more noticable, most likely and for sure it's helps eliminate the condensation issue that can happen with metal buildings...metal or wood frame, for that matter. With about 2.5" or so of space in the walls of many of the metal structures (I'm assuming car-port type, but if it's red iron, I apologize) the closed cell foam will get you nearly to R18. You can do the same up-top or got a little thicker. No need for a ceiling, either. Just make sure the mixture has the fire retardant and there's no issue with your local jurisdiction with it being exposed.
    The building is is much taller, I don't want to heat/insulate etc all the way, I am going to make a roof and have a small storage area above the shop. Thank I am going to try for Spray foam, that is my 1st choice, just depends on cost.

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    Ah...I missed the connection to the other thread. The point that Doug just made over there is truly important if you're planning for storage above. Critical, even...
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    Being way the heck North in Michigan (near the thumb, and my favorite, Bad Axe), insulation is going to be very important for you in winter. Jim's advice, as always, is quite good for the insulation. I think that's more important than the slatwall. And I forgot to mention French cleats, which is another great idea for adjustable/versatile storage. You could always do the drywall and put slatwall on top of it, if that's what you like.

    Your like an hour a half from me!

  10. #10
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    No, I'm not in Bad Axe. I just always loved the name of that city.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  11. #11
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    I went 1/2” plywood, but was recently shocked at the cost of same. I used 8’ sheets and put a 2’ on top with a horiz band. 10’ sheets were pricey back then, so the 8/2. I have like being able to tack, staple, screw wherever I want. The best part of the vertically set plywood is the ability to easily get back into the wall with a minimum of fuss. This was helpful when I had to add the wiring for my solar system. As well, I had to add a gas line I should have caught during construction, but so it goes. I am sure you will be a better planner than I and will never have to open the walls, but worth a thought.

  12. #12
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    I second Jim re. the french cleats. So useful and can hold loaded cabinets without fasteners.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

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    I plan to go with T111 siding for my interior walls.
    The Plane Anarchist

  14. #14
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    I went with drywall because I wanted it to look good. My old shop had plywood and that was much easier to hang things and move things around. I find myself thinking for days if I want to drill a hole in the drywall before actually doing it, but it sure looks good

    New shop, I think I would go plywood with French cleats ever few inches to allow lots of movement.

  15. #15
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    OSB sheathing here. I can hang anything anywhere with a screw.

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