best blade for ripping 8/4 white oak

[Jim Eisenstein]

I'll be needing to rip some 8/4 white oak and would like to buy a dedicated
rip blade for my 10" Sawstop 3hp PCS. I'm guessing 24T, 20 degree hook,
FT grind, but I'm really out of my depth here. Would love to hear some recommendations.

The Sawstop people recommend staying away from blades with depth limiting shoulders, so
that might eliminate some blades, esp. Freud.

Forrest is saying things are delayed up to 5 months.

Thanks in advance!

[Tom M King]

There are a lot of places that sell Forrest blades, and Amazon even used to have them on sale periodically. I'd use the Forrest thin 20 tooth rip blade. I have one that ripped 10,000 lineal feet of Cypress, as fast as I could push it through the little screamer table saw. I was ripping the sapwood off boards to make shingles, without a fence. I've used that blade for hardwoods a few times since then, and I'm really glad it's in the arsenal.

[Jeff Roltgen]

My current favorite for ripping: Freud LU87R010. Though I'm seeing pics at Amazon with the depth limiting shoulders, the one I have looks more like the LM75R010. Not sure if I have an old design, but number on it is clear as a bell.
Very good ripper - yes I have an "underpowered" table saw of 1.75HP. Those extra-deep gullets seem to help - I've gone through several hundred BdFt of hickory as of late, including 8/4. FWIW

Out of curiosity, what is the problem with a Sawstop and depth limiting shoulders - don't stop as well when contacting the aluminum stop block?

[Jim Eisenstein]

Thanks for the helpful reply. Sawstop merely says that they don't recommend such blades as they
may not stop fast enough when triggered. They say the same regarding dado stacks and this made
me sell my Freud set SD508 set in favor of a Dewalt set. The Dewalt actually produces better dados
anyway!

[Dave Mills]

I recently ripped a bunch of 8/4 white oak for my workbench using the Ridge Carbide 24T rip blade on my 3hp PCS. It cut wonderfully.

[William Chain]

I strongly prefer the Freud 'glue line rip' blade, LM74R010, full kerf. It's a 10", 30T blade, TCG, with a 12 degree hook. I've run that, a Freud Premier Fusion (10", 40T, ATB), a Forrest Woodworker II general purpose, a Woodworker II #1 grind, and the combination blade that came with the Sawstop. Hands down, the glue line rip blade produces the best rip on my 3HP PCS. With a properly tuned and square saw, you will not need to joint the edges, they're that good. My experience is mostly 8/4 oak, walnut, cherry, and maple. I think I ripped a few 10/4 pieces as well, no problem. Steady push, no bogging. I haven't tried the Forrest bespoke ripping blades, they may well be as nice. I've also run the thin kerf version of the glue line rip blade from Freud on a smaller contractor saw with similar results in 8/4 oak and walnut, again, steady push, no bogging, and beautiful finish that didn't need the jointer afterward.

I've been lazy and left the premier fusion and the WWII (both grinds) on the saw for a rip or two, and the results have been acceptable with the fusion (I went right to glue up, but a pass over the jointer wouldn't have hurt), and workable finish but in need of jointing with the WWII's (though neither WWII I have is intended for big rips). All those cuts were reminders to not be lazy and put the bespoke ripping blade in for those operations.

[Edward Weber]

I know this may not be answering your question directly but why not rip on the bandsaw if you have one. It may prove to be easier on you and the equipment. If not, I also use a Freud glue line rip although they do make a HD rip blade, I have no personal experience with it.
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM72M010

[Andrew Hughes]

I also would use and recommend a bandsaw to rip Rough slightly over then joint plane final step rip on my tablesaw.

[Edwin Santos]

I know this may not be answering your question directly but why not rip on the bandsaw if you have one. It may prove to be easier on you and the equipment. If not, I also use a Freud glue line rip although they do make a HD rip blade, I have no personal experience with it.
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM72M010

It is my preferred workflow to rip everything except sheet goods on the bandsaw. Finish by running the workpiece through the planer on edge.

The traditional method in North America is joint one face, joint one edge, plane second face, rip to width at TS.
The European approach is joint one face, joint one edge, rip to width at bandsaw, plane second face, plane second edge.

There is no right or wrong. It's a matter of preference, really.

[Robert Hazelwood]

It is my preferred workflow to rip everything except sheet goods on the bandsaw. Finish by running the workpiece through the planer on edge.

The traditional method in North America is joint one face, joint one edge, plane second face, rip to width at TS.
The European approach is joint one face, joint one edge, rip to width at bandsaw, plane second face, plane second edge.

There is no right or wrong. It's a matter of preference, really.

I like to use the bandsaw and planer as well, but I like to do all the BS rip/resaw operations first, to produce a rough board that is oversized. Let that sit for a while, then joint and plane to final dimension. My concern with ripping after jointing is that most of the wood movement occurs immediately after ripping, especially if ripping off a substantial amount. You'd end up having to go back to the jointer.

I have a Freud 24 tooth full kerf rip, but results have not been that great on solid wood. Not terrible either, but needs at least a couple of passes with a hand plane, or light pass on jointer to remove marks. I set my PM66 up pretty well when I restored it, and the arbor flange showed zero runout with a .001" increment dial indicator. The fence face is flat and set to about 0.002" toe out. I figure it is either my feed technique or the blade. I may try a glue-line rip to see what all the fuss is about.

[Mel Fulks]

Combo blades can work , but the fastest cutting 10 or 12 inch I’ve used were 18 or 20 tooth. I wouldn’t use anything less except for perhaps
one board when in a hurry.

[Edwin Santos]

I like to use the bandsaw and planer as well, but I like to do all the BS rip/resaw operations first, to produce a rough board that is oversized. Let that sit for a while, then joint and plane to final dimension. My concern with ripping after jointing is that most of the wood movement occurs immediately after ripping, especially if ripping off a substantial amount. You'd end up having to go back to the jointer.

That's sound advice.
If the wood is acclimated to your shop and was dried competently, it reduces the movement, but still your suggestion is the safer path. It can also be good to leave a day for movement in between steps before final milling.
Thanks,

[johnny means]

There is no best blade. Any sharp blade with the right tooth count and proper geometry will give similar results. I prefer a full kerf blade for all ripping, as they resist flutter more than a thin kerf. Keeping your blade clean and lubed will do more to improve your results than any manufacturers "secret sauce".

[Jim Becker]

There are a lot of places that sell Forrest blades, and Amazon even used to have them on sale periodically. I'd use the Forrest thin 20 tooth rip blade. I have one that ripped 10,000 lineal feet of Cypress, as fast as I could push it through the little screamer table saw. I was ripping the sapwood off boards to make shingles, without a fence. I've used that blade for hardwoods a few times since then, and I'm really glad it's in the arsenal.

I also have the 10" 20T Forrest ripping blade...it's a beast and cuts through thicker and gnarly material like butta....I actually kept it even though the slider could take 12" blades and I had largely converted to them. Now that I'm using a cabinet saw (a PCS actually) for awhile in the temporary shop, I'm glad I have it for any appropriate needs.

Silver's Mill is my go-to for Forrest blades.

[Jim Eisenstein]

Thanks, Jim. Is your blade thin kerf? Slivers has the thin kerf in stock, but not the thick kerf.