Honoring my dad..

[Richard Hart]

.. who was an exceptional carpenter. I had no interest in anything wood when he passed, but very, very fortunately I was smart enough to get his tools. (He built houses in the north Jersey area where we grew up)
This was the table saw I have fine memories of, I remember when I could just about see over it. It was a big deal, he would have to change the screw in fuse when he used it and since I see, talk, and process everything in pictures, (Aspberger's) I was able to use it the very first time I made cuts a few years ago because I had the picture in my mind's eye. ~1964 Craftsman 100 113.29992. Gotta love the Internet! Found a couple of tutorials on getting rid of the rust. I read that you aren't *really* supposed to sand but I did to keep it simple with WD-40, elbow grease, denatured alcohol and Johnson paste wax, several coats.
She shook and quivered like someone having a seizure so I have machined pulleys and a link belt on the way. One was bent.
I'm reading now about the safety features that are out there in modern saws, I could use some links if anyone knows where I can at the very least find a splitter or riving knife, prayerfully plug & play. Didn't even know that they exist! 😳
Anyway, thanks for reading... yeah, I know, watch your fingers, Rich!
20210804_154346.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Sounds like you have found "a thing" that's really good for you in woodworking. I find visual learning to be particularly powerful both personally and because our older daughter has to rely on it a lot due to a language based learning disability. Different situation than you, but a similar end-game for sure. Don't be afraid to ask anyone here in the forum for a photo or illustration if you will find that helpful!

It's possible to put a splitter on most vintage table saws, but with rare exceptions, a riving knife isn't possible. A simple splitter can be put on the table insert just behind the blade. It can be shop-made or a commercial product. Keep in mind that a splinter like that will need to be removed for non-through cuts and angled cuts. One example of a commercial solution is from MicroJig at https://www.microjig.com/collections/mj-splitter

Rust is largely going to be a matter of applying "elbow grease" with an abrasive pad with the help of something like WD-40 or "Naval Jelly", etc. What you want to shoot for is a smooth surface that doesn't have a build-up of rust. There may be some pitting; there may be discoloration. Just get the rust off as best as you can and then work to keep it way with paste wax or a preparation designed for the job.

[Rick Potter]

You did a nice job cleaning it up Rich.

I also recommend the Micro Jig splitters for your situation. You can buy or make several blade inserts and just drill holes in them for the splitters, using the drilling jig included.

Keeping it safe is a good idea.

[Carroll Courtney]

Wow, and the cast iron wings. It is nice when someone has their dads tools that has been pass down. I have few of my ole father inlaws tools and each time I use them I always say " Here he is still helping me" Enjoy your memories Richard.

[Lee Schierer]

Nice job on the clean up. We are looking forward to seeing your projects.

I have a very similar saw that has made many projects for me. The miter gauge and fence that came with the saw are rather crude and will drive you crazy. I would recommend that you get a Kreg Miter Gauge and a Beismeyer or Beismeyer clone fence. For bevel cuts get a Beall Tilt Box. The link belt and pulleys will make your saw much smoother. I did the same thing on mine. While you are installing those pieces, take time to align the blade to the miter slot and the fence to the same miter slot. I mount my dial indicator to a block of wood attached to my miter gauge. Be sure to level the extension wing to the main table. You can make inexpensive but effective zero clearance intserts from 5 mm underlayment. I use full kerf Freud blades on my saw, both rip and crosscut. I built a box like enclosure that fits up into the base for connection to my dust collector.

Be sure to make several push sticks and keep them near your saw.

[Richard Hart]

Nice job on the clean up. We are looking forward to seeing your projects.

I have a very similar saw that has made many projects for me. The miter gauge and fence that came with the saw are rather crude and will drive you crazy. I would recommend that you get a Kreg Miter Gauge and a Beismeyer or Beismeyer clone fence. For bevel cuts get a Beall Tilt Box. The link belt and pulleys will make your saw much smoother. I did the same thing on mine. While you are installing those pieces, take time to align the blade to the miter slot and the fence to the same miter slot. I mount my dial indicator to a block of wood attached to my miter gauge. Be sure to level the extension wing to the main table. You can make inexpensive but effective zero clearance intserts from 5 mm underlayment. I use full kerf Freud blades on my saw, both rip and crosscut. I built a box like enclosure that fits up into the base for connection to my dust collector.

Be sure to make several push sticks and keep them near your saw.

Fence is an affordability issue right now.. Paid for most of my tools with stimulus, wife had pandemic unemployment from a part time job she had but both parties are over now so it's back to substinence level. (SS only) We are in central Pa Mennonite/Amish country (Union County) and there's loads of places to get scrap materials. Did the garden beds using weathered 2x10's that I paid almost nothing for.
I would definitely like to replace the right extension with a matching cast iron for look's sake though-big stuff would get ripped with the circular anyway. I can find the iron but not an extension right side rail with teeth, if that existed. I found some on greedbay, beat to hell and no mention of gear teeth.

That's a 10-4 on the push sticks!

[Jeff Ramsey]

You might consider a Shark Guard, which comes with a splitter (mine did; check the Craftsman package to be sure). You get dust collection, a splitter and anti-kickback pawls in one.

Guard Packages for Craftsman, Ridgid, and Others – Shark Guard (thesharkguard.com)

[Lee Schierer]

I would definitely like to replace the right extension with a matching cast iron for look's sake though-big stuff would get ripped with the circular anyway. I can find the iron but not an extension right side rail with teeth, if that existed. I found some on greedbay, beat to hell and no mention of gear teeth.

I'm confused about the "gear teeth" comment in regard to the extension wings. There are lots of them available. ebay.com/b/Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-Wings/122835/bn_7023332811

[Richard Hart]

I'm confused about the "gear teeth" comment in regard to the extension wings. There are lots of them available. ebay.com/b/Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-Wings/122835/bn_7023332811

Ah. Sorry 'bout that-I meant this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274633324614?

Did one exist that had gear teeth for the original fence? I probably will keep using the original for now, just have to fiddle with it. I can deal with that, but it would be nice to be able to crank the fence all the way to the end of the wing if per chance I did have larger material to cut.

Really appreciate the feedback BTW!

[Erik Loza]

That cast iron top look better than most new machines!

Erik

[Rick Potter]

The saw my father had did not have the fence rail with teeth. It was like most I have seen, a simple piece of angle iron for the fence rail.

I would suggest getting one of those, they are pretty plentiful.

I would consider buying a broken down saw that has all the parts you need, since you are looking to save money. I have seen whole saws for $50 that have bad motors.

[Richard Hart]

The saw my father had did not have the fence rail with teeth. It was like most I have seen, a simple piece of angle iron for the fence rail.

I would suggest getting one of those, they are pretty plentiful.

I would consider buying a broken down saw that has all the parts you need, since you are looking to save money. I have seen whole saws for $50 that have bad motors.

I've done that with my old radio restorations. Buy a junker for parts and make one good one but in this case all I need is the one part and room is a big factor, good as your idea is.

[Lee Schierer]

Ah. Sorry 'bout that-I meant this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274633324614?

Did one exist that had gear teeth for the original fence? I probably will keep using the original for now, just have to fiddle with it. I can deal with that, but it would be nice to be able to crank the fence all the way to the end of the wing if per chance I did have larger material to cut.

Really appreciate the feedback BTW!

The saw my Dad had had a micro adjust handle on the fence, but I don't recall how it worked exactly. The front rail was where the teeth would have been if there were any. like this one: 'https://www.ebay.com/itm/184949053214?hash=item2b0fd2971e:g:46UAAOSwKl9g81I J

Here's a cleaner looking fence and rail 'https://www.ebay.com/itm/133834084107?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f29220f0 b:g:dFcAAOSwLDVhBHKT&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmH p%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSHYXPhGXR5u guexJBeHwfgYiJaHOJPERUG3i0h19KbE9vgF7%252BcAhJaQXp 1%252BRkzbTFBd0MCyOJ8U07esdqXRNHIdkryh0ElRSa5cljuZ 9wbsU6UXJKs0sRILeneppc0hxDHg20kjD%252B1Hs%252Fa9DB Oyl4XMsNfZdrG8BsxFNFO6M2%252FMzpO3djyLI0%252FwaQeK YDJLsKHkcq79MlXbFuHEaT5BmL7EX3V6PzhCDEoJYdRw2e8yVH cUSYu5IUG31qdqPhUE6OnIwxJF0tAfA0IhLpz3DpPAb%252Bwc vQI4DSJxwz5DQCGnvF9PYVOkbKJsQ3%252FVgvpgg4KB6%252F G5XjGjpjVVm9rMBzvD3aBTGWC1D5vgpxmkI0l2OWx1Xfu7V2Km fTYjCJ9x9CfNC9GOygzl4TjsLr0TkOEv%252FJUWGrsuPLVF%2 52BX5WqJaLRJARUTA74jGK3Ltxo3TLiS7Od%252FDm8jMNnLVq LhZ0ZcRdsNSZM9QldmUerhRzfVhraa4oqbn4TZTVc%252FDP0g t71lVpJiccCehxRl3kzRLJ7qZDqgCxgau7gE60EzPOmrsb2c1q X1xHPkDk10MKdWjOodnQVMZrHnNAqU0sLpVGu3PIs8Gu9JZzqM tN0508a3KD3SbMEX%252FtFhBIEuGcDf35D1X8RpCVj9rqJ9Py fzFjqNw3yskTfcBMKIW9ixRxiUFxYGfQB4zhhr1q%252FRT6iW xLo0UV3g1FefxlYhI9vzXbFZmLsW9k9vRzVghPY0TnY4ThBiSA ZnDMKyAwwN95xzZzb%252F3fSkpkVeGpMVSNDW2Zb0BGUldpaD FX2%252Bl2YnMytbRDd7X%252BNkmHaLNIiKC64nHgvTF3UVx3 %252F1le1AHvbU%252BqpjpA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CL K%7Cclp%3A2334524

[Tom Bender]

My most important TS accessory is my sled.

3/16" plywood

1" x 4" Basswood

and a strip of oak in the groove

It's light enough to put on and off with one hand which means you will use it more than you would a 20 pound monster

TS Sled.jpg

[Richard Hart]

That cast iron top look better than most new machines!

Erik

Thanks! 😎 I appreciate the kind words.