Attaching door jamb to old brick, how?

[Jim Becker]

Using the right kind of drill and bit should help with the wandering...a hammer drill, for example. You might also try to hit the grout line as that's easier to drill into than the actual brick for your anchors. A properly sized anchor and associated screw shouldn't cause an excessive force issue in the masonry.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

You can do this with anchor screws, if you get the right ones. GRK Caliburns are my go to, and Titans are ok. I suppose there are bricks out there that just won't cooperate, but I have yet to find one. I wouldn't recommend those blue tapcons for anything, especially this. Usually there is wood framing behind the bricks, just anchor to it if so. The lead tape is a good idea too.

[Scott Clausen]

I agree, if the anchor and screw/bolt are sized properly it shouldn't be a problem unless to close to an edge. Mortar joint is a no go as it is already almost powder now. I have a feeling it is going to take of trials to see what works and probably two or three trips to the big box store. Once I pull the old jamb out I will be committed to getting the new one in. Jamb is built and I and morticing the hinges in the evenings this week.

[Scott Clausen]

You can do this with anchor screws, if you get the right ones. GRK Caliburns are my go to, and Titans are ok. I suppose there are bricks out there that just won't cooperate, but I have yet to find one. I wouldn't recommend those blue tapcons for anything, especially this. Usually there is wood framing behind the bricks, just anchor to it if so. The lead tape is a good idea too.

Thanks for the Caliburns tip, I never had any luck with Tapcons. No wood behind brick, house is on columns with one brick thick wall in between. There is a wider brick frame around the doorway.

A little funny, the other day I was putting a shopping list of items to get into my phone (Google Keep) I entered TapCons and you should have seen my face in the hardware aisle when I tried to figure out how "Tampons" got there.

[Jim Becker]

Ah, the joys of AutoCorrect...

[Jim Dwight]

I would probably use plastic anchors and screws (you can drill a smaller hole for the screw first and then enlarge for the anchors so they are aligned). But regrardless of how you anchor the screw you may want to either use construction adhesive or expanding foam to help secure the jamb. Construction adhesive would secure it better but be harder to remove. Expanding foam is easing to cut if you need to remove and provides a surprising amount of additional support.

[Scott Clausen]

Expanding foam is easing to cut if you need to remove and provides a surprising amount of additional support.

This reminds me of years ago. I was working on a house about the time expanding foam sealer came out. The home owner was bragging that he was going to have the most energy efficient home on the planet as he foamed all the door and window jambs. The next day he went to open a window and it wouldn't budge. The foam had compressed the jambs against the windows.

I have made the jambs out of a 2"X6" so I may end up foaming it after I have it secured in place to "lock it in"

[Bill Cuthbertson]

Having a 100 year old house with solid exterior brick walls that are about a foot thick I have tried everything with varying degress of success. Hillman makes an anchor that has been my go to recently, rock solid and easy to use.

Hillman #10-12 x 1-9/16 in. DuoPower Contractor Strength Anchor (12-Pack)-376474 - The Home Depot

[Joe Jensen]

Our home is very old brick. When we need to anchor to it, you drill a hole, roll some sheet lead into a cylinder and drive it in the hole. Then just run your screw into the lead. Nothing to rot and the screw can be removed/adjusted. This is how commercial roofers fasten to masonry all the time.

Love this, thanks, I've done two doors now and as others have said, Tapcons are out. Last house had hollow block and we used toggle bolts.

[Scott Clausen]

Well, as usual I kind of over thought this. I ended up drilling 1/4" holes through the wood jamb and followed with 1/4" holes in the brick. I then realized after I after perfectly shimmed the jamb in place the likelihood of returning to that position was not going to be easy. I got a 1/4 oak dowel and placed in each hole and ran a #10 4" construction screw into it. It feels very solid and I am happy with the fit and action of the door. A door handset and a little trim is all I need to complete.
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[Bill Dufour]

I had the doorbell button fall off the wall. It had two woodscrews into the mortar. I though long and hard and chipped the holes clean and a little bigger. Filled with jb weld and painters tape to hold it in overnight while it dried. then drilled and tapped into the jb weld. Worked fine. Just remembered I used JB weld putty on the top hole.
For your door I would mount it in place and drill through the frame and into the brick. countersink or counterbore the wood holes. Fill the holes in the brick with anchor epoxy or. jb weld putty and install a waxed screw or bolt. Tape the screws so it stays down in place overnight.
Bill D