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Thread: Does Cast Iron Deeply Absorb Protectant Over Time?

  1. #16
    Join Date
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    When you use a ROS, what grit should you use and should the paper be for metal or will one for wood work?
    WoodsShop

  2. #17
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    Mar 2003
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    Upland CA
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    I don't have much trouble with rust, but sweat drops mark the cast iron quickly. When I notice a haze of discoloration on my tools I use a fine sanding sponge, then wax. Sponges are sturdy enough to stay flat, and easily clean up with soap and water.

    Each time I enter the shop I see a round ring on my DJ20 Jointer from a soda can someone set there when it was new 30 years ago. No idea who did it, but I constantly use it as a 'what not to do' example to 'guests'.

    I used to have a Delta 14" bandsaw (used) from the 70's which had a darkly colored table that looked like a seasoned frying pan. I don't know what was used on it, or if it was the way the cast iron was made, but it NEVER showed a sign of rust. Had it for 10 or more years, and don't remember ever waxing it. Paid $200 for it at a garage sale, sold it ten years later for double. Sold it because it only had 1/2 HP.
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 08-03-2021 at 1:48 PM.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Wood View Post
    When you use a ROS, what grit should you use and should the paper be for metal or will one for wood work?
    I use a grey or red scotchbrite pad under the orbital head. Sandpaper would be for heavily rusted surfaces. I think if it was bad enough to need sandpaper, I would probably have a machine shop regrind the surface. Jut my opinion.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  4. #19
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    Mar 2006
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    yeah I don't have any rust. Do they make those scothbrite pads for ROSs?
    WoodsShop

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Wood View Post
    yeah I don't have any rust. Do they make those scothbrite pads for ROSs?
    Maybe?... I have always just cut pieces to fit. Doesn't need to be attached to the backing plate for this type of work.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    Johnny, I think we're saying the same thing. That is my point: The shinier table tops simply don't have enough open pore structure to hold wax. You run wood over it once and all the wax gets scraped right back off. If you look at the tops on most European machinery, they have a fly-milled or Blanchard-grind type finish, with a noticeable "grain" that traps wax. With a table top like that, even if you scrape the wax off the surface, there (hopefully) still enough of it to prevent oxidation.
    I think this may be one reason why the CRC 3 36 product works so well for me. Immediately after removing the Cosmoline, I saturate the surface with the CRC product, which is very runny, and work it hard into the pores, and just let it sit there til the next day, when I wipe off the excess and apply several coats of paste wax. Never a problem with rust (unless I have to reapply due to some “mechanical” scrape etc.)

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    I think this may be one reason why the CRC 3 36 product works so well for me. Immediately after removing the Cosmoline, I saturate the surface with the CRC product, which is very runny, and work it hard into the pores, and just let it sit there til the next day, when I wipe off the excess and apply several coats of paste wax. Never a problem with rust (unless I have to reapply due to some “mechanical” scrape etc.)
    That makes sense. We had a tech who swore by Boeshield in the same way. I have never personally used it for this type of application but can't see any reason why not.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    Redwood City, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Wood View Post
    yeah I don't have any rust. Do they make those scothbrite pads for ROSs?
    Definitely, I use this attached to my Rotex at low speed. Don't use the vacuum attachment though. In the past I've used Barkeepers friend as well to help clean it up.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jensen View Post
    I'll be a jerk, I live in AZ and have never had to worry about rust
    Well Joe, we can be jerks together. I live in Alberta & keep wondering what this "rust" is that people keep complaining about.

  10. #25
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    Nov 2009
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    Peoria, IL
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    Back in the day, cast iron was left outside to "season". It was a method of stress relieving the casting with temperature cycles over a long period. The casting would be a huge pile of rust that just a light pass on a milling machine would remove. If the casting was porous, the rust would be 1/8" thick. There is usually a fair amount of graphite in the iron mixture for machine castings. This grey iron machines easily and adds some rust resistance.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Kansas City
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    When I got my J/P combo machine, I stripped off the cosmoline with mineral spirits, and I literally watched it rust in real time. It started creating black spots instantly. To be fair, I think I had a little citrus cleaner on my rag, so maybe that did it? To this day, despite all kinds of effort, that machine will rust if you look at it wrong.

    I have a bandsaw from the same company, and that tabletop won't rust at all. I have it very close to the garage door, and it looks as good as the day I got it. Same shop, same rust prevention efforts, same everything. But the results are miles different.

  12. #27
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Mac View Post
    When I got my J/P combo machine, I stripped off the cosmoline with mineral spirits, and I literally watched it rust in real time. It started creating black spots instantly. To be fair, I think I had a little citrus cleaner on my rag, so maybe that did it? To this day, despite all kinds of effort, that machine will rust if you look at it wrong.

    I have a bandsaw from the same company, and that tabletop won't rust at all. I have it very close to the garage door, and it looks as good as the day I got it. Same shop, same rust prevention efforts, same everything. But the results are miles different.
    If you want your bandsaw to rust so it won't feel left out, just cut a chunk of green oak and let it sit flat on the cast iron table for a bit. Won't take long.

  13. #28
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    Jul 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    and especially my Jet oscillating spindle sander (a rust magnet).
    Another tool I forgot to mention. But rust hasn't been much of a problem with my Jet OSS, but it's kept in the house, in my inside workshop. Yet there are a lot of hand tools inside that have shown some rust since moving to FL.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  14. #29
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    Another tool I forgot to mention. But rust hasn't been much of a problem with my Jet OSS, but it's kept in the house, in my inside workshop. Yet there are a lot of hand tools inside that have shown some rust since moving to FL.
    Yup, that 110% humidity is torture on tools and machinery. Even in climate controlled shops. And garage shops are much tougher. And you're 150 miles south of me.

    If you ever move that Jet OSS into your shop, just save time and paint it rust colored.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    That makes sense. We had a tech who swore by Boeshield in the same way. I have never personally used it for this type of application but can't see any reason why not.

    Erik
    When I purchased the A3-31 I also bought Felder's Supergleit and Metallglanz. The JP has only seen those two treatments and rust hasn't been much of an issue. Could Felder have formulated them specifically for their cast tops?
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

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