Ripping Dimensional Lumber with a Track Saw

[Joe Hollis]

I'm helping a friend install exterior trim on some French doors. To keep the reveals even close to consistent, given that the door jambs are not parallel to the siding edge pieces, the trim has to be cut in a taper. I have never used my track saw for cutting solid lumber before. The material is 2 x 6 combed spruce. If any of you done something like this, could you offer me some guidance? I don't know how stable (or unstable) a track saw would be when you cannot have full support under the track, and I don't want any scary outcomes...

Thank you in advance for your help.

JH

[Mark e Kessler]

Just butt another board of the same thickness edge to edge, clamp if needed…

[ChrisA Edwards]

You'll need an extra piece, to lay under the track, to support the track, otherwise it's pretty straight forward.

I've ripped a 2"x4"x8' across the diagonal on the 2"x4" face, but I had to lay another 2x4 under th track to support it.

[Curt Putnam]

use another 2 x 6 to put under the track as support. Clamp the track to the piece to be cut. Use a rip blade. Assuming the saw has a riving knife, I see no issues.

[Rich Engelhardt]

In addition to using the supports & clamps - make sure you secure the piece being cut somehow.
Either a dab of hot glue to hold it in place - or a couple screws in places that can be trimmed off after - or two faced tape under it - or - you sort of get the picture.

The first time I tried this kid of cut, the piece I was cutting sort of took off like a rocket when the blade grabbed it.

[Jim Becker]

As has been indicated. it's mostly about supporting the workpiece and the track. Otherwise, the cut is no different than any other material with the exception that a ripping cut is a little harder on the saw sometimes because of the blade design. Most of the blades are not optimized for ripping while they perform remarkably for crosscutting and sheet goods. If you're going to be making a lot of these cuts, see about getting a blade that has a better tooth design for that operation, just as you would for a table saw.

[Dan Cameron]

Just butt another board of the same thickness edge to edge, clamp if needed…

I say DO NOT CLAMP. You will try to cut the clamp in two.

[Joe Hollis]

Thanks for your responses. I will cough up for a proper ripping blade and have a go at ripping these boards, using the method suggested.

Thanks!,

JH

[Tom Bender]

Use package tape to hold the two boards together.

[Mark e Kessler]

I say DO NOT CLAMP. You will try to cut the clamp in two.

I guess I should have put in a disclaimer...lol

[Jim Becker]

It may not be necessary to clamp the track or use tape...make sure the board(s) are clean and the track's anti-slip bottom can do its job in most cases. But if the material is requiring more effort to cut, securing the track is a good idea.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I say DO NOT CLAMP. You will try to cut the clamp in two.

I took it to mean using the track clamps that hold the track on the surface being cut, not a clamp used to hold the pieces being cut together.

It may not be necessary to clamp the track or use tape...make sure the board(s) are clean and the track's anti-slip bottom can do its job in most cases.

I've had the dust collection hose drag across the track and move it - so - I use clamps for 99% of everything I cut.
(I wear a belt & suspenders too! )

[Jim Dwight]

I have ripped both framing lumber and hardwood with the normal high tooth blade on my DeWalt. But I have also had to switch to a ripping blade on dimensional lumber. Depends on the grain of the wood. So at least having a ripping blade handy is a good idea. I also second clamping when possible but usually cuts without clamps work out fine too. If you do not clamp the track you need to be careful not to move the track as you cut - with the hose or otherwise. You do not have to support 100% of the track but you need to have material under most of it or the track may tip.

[glenn bradley]

I did this just recently in the new shop build. I had to fabricate some combed trim to match the commercial building. I laid the blank on a sacrificial surface on top of saw horses, laid an equal thickness blank next to it to fully support the track, and let 'er rip (pun intended). Worked great.