Rockler Beadlock Loose Tenon System

[George Bokros]

Anyone using this jig / system? What are your opinions of it? Rockler has the Pro Jig on sale for $99 and is throwing in the 1/2" guides. If I would buy one I would also buy the 3/8 & 1/2 router bits to make my own tenon stock. Don't know if I would use the 1/2" all that often, your thoughts on the 1/2"?

Thoughts opinions??

Thanks

George

[Bill Huber]

I don't have one but the Pro system looks really good. I do have the Mortise Pal and it is twice as much money and I really don't see that much difference in them. In fact I think the bead lock looks like it would be a little more versatile then the MP.

[Greg Wease]

I have used the original version (smaller and cheaper than the Pro) of the Beadlock for ~10 years--long before Rockler purchased it. I have used the 3/8" tenons often but am about to use the 1/2" size for the first time. This is partially due to the fact that I rarely work with stock thicker than an inch and partially due to the difficulty centering with the cheaper jig--not a problem with the Pro jig. If you regularly work with 8/4 material the 1/2" size might be right for you.

[Bob Landel]

Hi George,

I owned them all! For the sake of brevity, I will get to the point. I considered the pro beadlock one of the better systems especially when they run the $99.00 sale price. In addition the loose tenons they sell fit the cut mortises well.

As I have stated earlier, I purchased just about every type of mortise system offered. Leigh, MortisePal, drill press add on from Grizzly with several bits, beadlock, a mortise machine from Harbor Freight, and a Domino. I was able to return most. I like the Domino the best. I considered the MortisePal over priced, and the loose tenons always fit too loose.

[Charles Lent]

I have the original jig with the 3/8 and 1/2 capability and have the router bit for making 1/2 tenon stock. While I don't use it much anymore, because I now have a Leigh FMT, I was pleased with the quality and accuracy of the floating tenon joints that I could make very easily with the Beadlock system. Anybody with an electric drill and the right size drill bit can get good results with only a brief amount of knowledge of how to use the Beadlock jig. In my opinion, it's a great way for someone with limited tools and budget to get started doing floating tenon joints. The Beadlock Pro jig will make it easier to adjust the spacing between the side of the board and the mortise position. Spacers are required to do this with the original jig.

Charley

[Don Buck]

I purchased the same Beadlock system a few months ago while on sale (same price). My need initially was in building a 10' x 8' sliding shop door using the 1/2" tenons. I practiced on about 6 pieces of scrap to get comfortable with the device and made perfect joints on the door. I couldn't be happier about the price and results. There is a slight learning curve to get the hang of placement of the jig but soon it becomes very apparant. I consider one of my best valued shop purchases.

[John Nesmith]

I have the original. I bought it maybe 8 years ago to use on a hall table - the first real piece of furniture I ever built. I then graduated to mortises and integral tenons, cut by a variety of methods. I have since gravitated back to the Beadlock for it's simplicity and speed.

I have always purchases the tenon stock.

[Ellen Benkin]

I had one of the originals, tried it, and returned it. I couldn't figure out why I would spend the money to make loose tenons that I can make out of scrap wood.

[John Nesmith]

I had one of the originals, tried it, and returned it. I couldn't figure out why I would spend the money to make loose tenons that I can make out of scrap wood.

I'm not following you. The jig is for cutting the mortises, and you can make your own tenons out of scrap wood if you want.

[Loren Hedahl]

I have the original type with guides for both 3/8" and 1/2" tenons. I bought it to supplement my biscuit jointer for joints needing the additional strength of a full tenon. I used it quite a bit until the Domino became available.

After the initial supply of Beadloc tenons were used up I just made straight ones rounding over the edges using a round over bit in a router table. Then using a piece of scrap Beedloc tenon as a sample, I would cut shallow kerfs in the right places on my home made tenons with a table saw. I liked this better than the factory tenons because the table saw kerfs provided channels for excess glue to escape.

Obviously using the Beadloc is a bit more fussy than either a biscuit jointer or Domino. But in all reality, for a hobbyist like me, I cannot justify the expense of a Domino purchase in a cost effective argument. The reason I bought one is just because I wanted one -- no further reasonable justification -- it is just "way cool".

Besides portability, cost effectiveness and almost unlimited application, there is one more positive about the Beadloc. It really doesn't require dust control. The speed of the drill used just makes drill-like shavings/chips and doesn't contaminate the air as does a router, biscuit jointer or Domino when making mortises.

I haven't thought about my old Beadloc for a long time. Maybe I'll get it out and give it a go again. Who knows how it will boil out. I do have a favorite son and son-in-law who would both welcome being the recipient of an almost new Domino system complete with all cutter sizes and huge box of Dominoes!

[Charles Lent]

Here is a tip for the original Beadlock owners and it may also apply to the Pro jig as well.

In low or poor light I found that it was sometimes difficult to align the Beadlock accurately to my mark on the wood. It seemed that the color and thickness of the alignment edge sometimes caused a parallax type of reading error. I filed down the thickness of the alignment edge to form a chisel edge type bevel and then used a black magic marker to darken the surface of the metal where I had filed it. This sharp black edge eliminated the errors that I was experiencing with the original thick metal edge, making accurate alignment of the Beadlock jig much easier.

Charley

[John Nesmith]

I do have a favorite son and son-in-law who would both welcome being the recipient of an almost new Domino system complete with all cutter sizes and huge box of Dominoes!

You also have at least one fellow creeker who would welcome that as well.

[Mark Klika]

Charley,
I know this is an old thread, but I figured I'd ask a question or two. I had the Beadlock Pro sitting around for years, unopened until now. I went out and bought the 1/2" and 1/4" accessories. They were hard to find too, I had to buy them from Rockler-approved vendors since Rockler discontinued the Pro. They still sell the tenon stock, but only the 3/8 router bit. I can't find the 1/2" anywhere. Does it make taller stock than the store bought ones? They're only about 1.25" tall, not really good for a project using 2X lumber. And I'm having alignment issues too. I may try that trick you posted. All in all, I'm not happy with this unit. Thinking I should've bit the bullet and went for the Domino. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. Mark

[Charles Lent]

Mark,

I just replied to your PM. My wife had some health issues that kept me from answering sooner. I think things are almost back to normal here now, so I can read my email and forum posts again.

For your question about the height of the tenon stock, I think you are looking at it the wrong way. I believe that what your calling "Height" is really the width of the tenon and the tenon stock available comes in long strips that get cut to length to form your floating tenons. The side grooves in this tenon stock run end to end down both sides of these tenon blanks, and these grooves allow the end of this tenon stock to fit into the 5 adjacent, but slightly overlapping holes that you made when using the Beadlock jig and your drill bit. The Beadlock Router Bit is used to create these long lengthwise V lines on both sides of your long tenon stock that you cut to thickness and width using your table saw. Whatever depth that you decide that these holes need to be drilled, you will want to cut pieces off of the Beadlock Tenon Stock that is about 2X the depth of your drilled holes, minus about 1/8" to allow the joint to always go completely together during glue-up. A little short leaves a place for the excess glue to go as well.

Charley