Stone Inlay Question

[John Leech]

I'm in the final stretch of the race to complete my daughter's 18th birthday present and am looking for some verification...or not. I am building her a cherry jewelry box with walnut splines. The lid has a bubinga veneered panel that I was hoping to install banding around the outside of, but due to a 'brain fart' I was presented with 'design opportunity.' I've decided to use a crushed stone inlay to fill the grove that is too wide for the inlay. This is a technique that I've never done before, but it appears to be rather straightforward: Fill the grove with crushed stone up to the surface or just slightly above, flood the area with thin CA glue and wait for it to cure before sanding. My question has to do with finishing. My plan is to use BLO on the box and then top coat with spray lacquer. The dilemma I'm having is whether to apply the BLO first and then inlay, or should I inlay and then apply BLO. My gut tells me to finish first and apply painter's tape to keep the CA where it's supposed to be.

Also, if anyone has advice on doing the inlay, I'm all ears!!

Thanks,
JP

[Bruce Volden]

I've done quite a bit of stone inlay with laser projects.
1--crush up some stone to a FINE powder for the base to get into tight recesses
2--use the crushed inlay (larger pieces) for "leveling" but slightly overfill.
3--flood w/CA and let cure on it's own--NO accelerator!
4--then start the sanding, DO NOT breathe the stone (respirator recommended)
I always waited until my sanding was complete and I was happy with my fill of stone.
I would usually sand up to 1000 grit to get the stone purdy.
Then I would apply the topcoat for the wood (over stone and all) wipe down good to go.
This works well with turquoise, malachite and another green stone that escapes my memory.
I usually buy the stones whole and crush them myself--cheaper for me.
HTH

Bruce

[John Leech]

Thanks, Bruce!! In your experience, should I apply the BLO before or after the inlay. You mention topcoat but wasn't sure if you were referring to just the lacquer or both the lacquer and the BLO.

I'm planning on using blue lapis because I feel that the bright blue will contrast nicely with the dark, figured bubinga


Thanks again!

[Bruce Volden]

The last thing I have always done was the "top coat", being BLO, stain, varnish.....
I also like to buff it all out with a wool pad etc. I like shiny.
BLO or other stuff MAY affect the CA bonding to wood---not sure never tried it, always went the raw/raw route.

Bruce

[Jim Tobias]

I would put a coat of shellac on the wood near the edges(Outside of) of the inlay so that the CA does not migrate into the wood outside of the inlay. It(the shellac) will be sanded off in the normal sanding process before final finishing. Be careful when sanding as the stone will be much harder than the wood and you have to be a little careful to get it flush.
Jim

[Aiden Pettengill]

As Bruce said, PLEASE WEAR A MASK!!!!! I can't stress this enough! As someone in the stone fabrication industry, I can tell you that stone dust is pretty terrible stuff. If you don't work with water on the stone at all time or wear a mask, with exposure you can get silicosis. Mind you this is caused by heavy amounts in the air which you shouldn't end up with, but it doesn't smell very good either.

[Stan Calow]

I've had trouble with things sneaking past the blue tape when its not in a flat situation. You can try this instead of the painters tape: (1) a bead of caulk that you will peel out after. (2) a plastic string or something like the window screen retaining screen rubber. (3) rolls of window insulation.

All depends on what fits.

[Mark W Pugh]

I would put a coat of shellac on the wood near the edges(Outside of) of the inlay so that the CA does not migrate into the wood outside of the inlay. It(the shellac) will be sanded off in the normal sanding process before final finishing. Be careful when sanding as the stone will be much harder than the wood and you have to be a little careful to get it flush.
Jim

this^^^^^^