Glass panel doors, what are you using for hardware?

[Thomas Colson]

On my bucket list is to do a glass-panel exterior door similar to https://www.westbarnetwoodworks.com/...mance-Door.pdf (but not exactly!). One thing keeping me stuck in the thinking about it phase is lack of knowledge about actually getting the glass mounted in the door. Specifically, that article lists a specific brand of glazing gasket, but they don't go into a lot of detail about how its used, and looking at http://www.conservationtechnology.co...g_glazing.html, I don't really see how that product is the best fit. To be clear, the hypothetical installation of this door won't be an exposed location facing a cat 5 hurricane, but I am interested in some degree of weather proofing for those times I leave the sprinkler on and it sprays the door all night. Anybody else building glass panel doors, and what hardware are you using to mount the glass? In my simple mind, I'm thinking of a "U" shaped gasket, not the two-piece GGO5 mentioned in the article. When I took my old windows apart to dispose of, that's how the pane was mounted in the aluminum frames: A u-shaped rubber gasket that made removal of the panel easy to slide out, once I disassembled the frame, which suggested it was built in a way to facilitate panel replacement. I realize I can simply drop a panel in a rabbeted groove with some caulk, but I'm looking to go a little more high end here, and this will be with a IG unit, not a single pane. I see something like https://www.swisco.com/Glazing-1-2-I.../Spline/59-234 or http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...x?GroupID=6712 might work, but surely it can't be that simple....?

[Alex Zeller]

Those last two links are for gaskets typically used with aluminum, like a sliding door, not wood. The corners will be an issue since it'll shrink over time with vinyl. The two ways I've seen companies deal with it is to cut the corners at a 45 and then glue them together (not sure if that could be done without the proper machine) so there's no gap and to cut a slit in the part that's not visible so there's only one gap. Looking at that article it looks interesting but I don't know of a single house that has a door built to that R value around here. It looks like they just used double sided foam glazing tape (and possibly caulking) to seal it and insulation around the outside edge to account for wood movement.