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Thread: SC2C another question/problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Waterford, PA
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    887

    SC2C another question/problem

    Well, I was ready to install the blade on to my new SC2C today, but seem to have a problem. I purchased a 12" blade with a 5/8 id for the arbor before receiving the machine. Now, the blade slides right onto the arbor, but the flange supplied seems to be for a 30 mm bore blade. Did I purchase the incorrect blade? Is there a different arbor flange that should have been supplied or that I should have ordered?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Gatineau, Québec
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    173
    Lisa:

    When reading about your machine I concluded that Minimax uses standard North American tooling (in your case a 5/8 inch arbor) as a selling point. My guess would be that you received a "European" flange by mistake and have purchased the right blade. That said, I will let Minimax users confirm (or infirm) this statement.

    Regards,

    Jacques

  3. #3
    Does your nut slide inside the arbor flange? Common on euro machines that the nut has a machined shoulder that slides inside the washer. The washer does not register against the arbor shaft.
    Sometimes I just want to look at pretty pictures,... Thats when I go to the Turners Forum

  4. #4
    Lisa, if your 5/8” blade fits the acme thread, then it is a 5/8” arbor machine. I seem to recall there being a spacer ring or something on the flange. Could there still be a metal ring on the arbor shaft that you haven’t yet removed?

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Waterford, PA
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    Thanks everyone. I just double checked and there is nothing left on the arbor that should have been removed. Basically, it appears that the wrong flange type was shipped with the machine, as it has a raised 30 mm diameter hub with a 5/8" dia bore thru it. Hopefully my dealer can straighten this out Monday morning.

  6. #6
    Lisa, are you able to post pics of what you have there? With all due respect, I still think you're missing something. What it "should" look like is the rear arbor flange (of which diameter is irrelevant), the acme threaded arbor shaft (which we have already established is 5/8", right?), the stabilizer cap (which again is irrelevant as far as diameter), then your arbor nut. If it truly was a machine with a different arbor diameter, you wouldn't even be able to start the blade onto the arbor shaft. The reason I keep going to back to this is that, unless things changed dramatically, there is only one build code for the US on these machines and it's ALWAYS 5/8" arbors, 60Hz motors, etc. I mean, I suppose it is possible but in all my years, it never was any different.

    Here is a photo from an SC4WS. Different saw unit but same design. If you can post a pic of what you have, I can tell you with 100% certainty what's going on. Hope this all makes sense.

    Erik
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    Thank you Erik. Here are photos of my arbor, which appears to be the same as the one in your photo. The other two photos are the front and rear of the arbor flange, which seems to be different than what you are showing.

    Resized_20210718_162052_2533.jpgResized_20210718_162115_7363.jpgResized_20210718_162122_3571.jpg

    What do you think?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    57,940
    Lisa, what's the diameter of the hole in the middle of that arbor cap? It should be .675" (5/8"). That goes on on the outside of the blade and you finish things off with the arbor nut. It certainly looks very similar to the one that was on my S315WS.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    Jim,

    The ID is .625 (5/8") and the raised hub on back in 30 mm diameter. It is the hub that is causing me problems, because it protrudes beyond the rest of the flange and warps the blade since there is no contact on the larger OD. Hopefully this photo shows this.
    Resized_20210718_171254_3369.jpg
    Last edited by Lisa Starr; 07-18-2021 at 5:20 PM. Reason: Added photo

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    Jim, The ID is .625 (5/8") and the raised hub on back in 30 mm diameter. It is the hub that is causing me problems, because it protrudes beyond the rest of the flange and warps the blade since there is no contact on the larger OD. Hopefully this photo shows this.
    Wow, this is a new one. The good news is that you do indeed have a 5/8" machine. If I were to guess, it looks like they installed some other type of damper plate on the assembly line. No idea from which machine but appears so. It happens to all of us, BTW. If I'm seeing this right, all you really need is the correct damper plate. I'm sure the dealer ought to be able to get it for you.

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    57,940
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    Jim,

    The ID is .625 (5/8") and the raised hub on back in 30 mm diameter. It is the hub that is causing me problems, because it protrudes beyond the rest of the flange and warps the blade since there is no contact on the larger OD. Hopefully this photo shows this.
    Resized_20210718_171254_3369.jpg
    Something is amiss here. I wonder if that's some kind of adapter to permit use of a 30mm bore blade on the 5/8" bore machine? Is that raised ridge .125" thick, give or take? Is that raised ring 30mm in diameter? The proper outer hub should be engaging the blade with more than that small circle of material that surrounds the bore hole. I'm going by memory, but I know the one that was on my saw (Jeff Bartley owns it now) was in full contact with the blade at the rim. There may or may not have been some relief across the face of the hub, but there was zero chance of any kind of blade warping.

    In the short term, if you cannot get this rectified, one of the smaller diameter Forrest stabilizers could be used instead of the hub I would think so the nut is not directly in contact with the blade. But I'm speculating there.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Santa Fe, NM
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    214
    Mine looks like this on my SC 4E.

    IMG_2862.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    I reached out to my dealer this morning concerning the Arbor Flange. I'm told that the flange I received is now the "standard" flange shipped on North American machines. It is meant to provide a better cut as the flange hub provides a better surface than the threads on the arbor for the blade bore. A hubless Arbor Flange is available. The dealer gave me a choice of them providing a hubless flange or a 72 tooth blade with the 30 mm bore. I chose to go with the 30 mm bore blade.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    57,940
    'Vally Ingtalesting"... I wonder if the machine I plan to buy once I have a new shop building will come the same way. I'd want/need the "hubless" version because I already have all my blades from the S315WS. Honestly, they should provide both formats if they want to include the version that adapts to 30mm bores to the .675" arbor, IMHO.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,884
    Lisa
    Just in case your machine was misdirected to the US, check the motor to see that it is 60 hz.

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