Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Trimming Formica on a Planer/jointer Stand

  1. #1

    Trimming Formica on a Planer/jointer Stand

    Added black microdot Formica to this planer/jointer stand. Used a flush trim bit all around, but the edges are a bit “sharp”. Worried about future chip-outs. Purchased a Freud 41-501 1/16” radius laminate trim bit, which I tried on some scrap. Works pretty well, but pretty touchy about getting the depth just right. Wondering what others use to finish laminate edges over plywood like this?

    AF1A7447-3DB1-40ED-96B1-9E7ACAFEDBC7.jpg4A9EC5CC-CBDE-4B5F-A607-D9FA1F881FB4.jpgA896D1EF-88D3-463E-A073-10CAF5FDADF9.jpg

  2. #2
    Around here it’s always a sharp file. Not really difficult,but most won’t allow a green new guy to do it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Formica is usually first trimmed flush with a flush cut bit. Then the edge is beveled with another bit specifically made for that task. There still is a sharp top edge which needs to be softened. That's where the file comes in for those who have some training; otherwise, 220 grit sandpaper works well, too.

    John

  4. #4
    Thanks guys. I did use a flush trim bit as noted, an old Craftsman 1/4” dual-flute with bearing. Worked well but Formica has that cardboardy underside that likes to fray and stick out. PITA to clean up. For the beveling I finally went with the Freud 41-502 bit (sorry for typo in original post). Worked great once I got the depth just right on some scrap formica-on-plywood samples. The bit still left that sharp top edge and plenty of frayed underside. So I researched and found a great fine knife file (McMaster Carr) that cleaned up that sharp top edge and took care of all the little frayed pieces. Again, a little practice on scrap gave me the confidence I needed. So after all that, still left with the basic question - what beveling bit(s) do you guys use? I would rate the Freud an 8 out of 10. Pretty good but gums up quickly and is finicky to get the depth just right.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    After using a flush trim bit I just knock the sharp corner down using 80-grit self-stick sandpaper discs on a block of plywood scrap.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,855
    No beveling bit for me. I just use a flush trim bit. I use a file to knock off the sharp edges. WD40 on the bit will help the glue from gumming up the bit. Use lacquer thinner/ acetone/mineral spirits to clean up the glue mess from the Formica.

  7. #7
    Thanks Guys! Great feedback, very helpful.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    There are special files made for laminate. I have used normal files as well (Single cut) ,sharp new files work best.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    Sounds like a perfect job for a ROS

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •