Frame and panel door, how to construct the panels?

[Scott Clausen]

The tight panels are not so much to "seal" the space but an attempt to help hold the door together and allow me to seal the joint between the panel, styles & rails to prevent moisture intrusion. The adding strength thing came up when I had my first screw up on this project. Chopping the mortises I had gotten as deep as I could so I shortened the tenons to fit what I had chopped. I woke up the next morning at 4:30 and thought " you dummy, use a drill to remove waste deeper". I did this last night and it worked great using the mortise walls as a guide. Too late for that first joint so if the door fails the next version will be better for it.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Typically panels are not used to hold the door together. With pressure treated lumber you may want to consider a polyurethane glue. The stuff sets up quickly though, so you have to work fast. You could tape off your mortise and tenon now and apply an exterior grade stain or water sealer to the panel grooves. This won’t prevent wood expansion but will provide some sealing. One final thought is that you could add a couple more horizontal rails to add more strength to the door. Typically 5 panel doors are interior doors, but what’s to say you couldn’t have a cust style for this situation?

[Scott Clausen]

Thanks Joe, The short open time of polyurethane glue could be a major issue. I hear that Tite Bond III does okay with dampness and has a good open time but have never used it before. I think I will prime the grooves prior to assembly just to add some protection there if I don't glue them in. It wouldn't hurt to prime the plywood edge too. The door is only 4 1/2' high and 3' wide and right now has two panels but I al thinking about adding another style in the middle which would make it a four panel door.

[Ben Ellenberger]

Lost Art Press has a book “door making and window making” that is a reprint of an old guide on how to do it. You can get the pdf for less than $15.

It is a good resource for a traditional way different door types were made.

[Scott Clausen]

Ben, I think I may go ahead and get that book but I will probably opt for the hard cover version.

I decided to get treated ply and was going to get the 1/2" but it was so badly warped that I went with the 3/4" since it was only $83 vs $77 for the 1/2". I hope the added weight doesn't bite me. A nice surprise was at the register when he said "I guess they need to change the sign, it's $68 in my system."

[Scott Clausen]

Door progress, things ready for glue up.
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I glued using Tite Bond III and opted to let the panels float. I did a dress rehearsal and was confident I could get this dead square. After glue was applied and clamped together I realized that I lack a clamp long enough to pull the door into square. Running out of open time fast I started pounding the styles with my dead blow mallet with no movement. Plan "B" was to bounce the style on the floor to move the door frame. Good thing I left the styles long to protect the finished door. I got it close, maybe a 1/32 to an 1/8" so I clamped it and let sit over night.
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On to the jamb.
Also as a side note I learned the hard way not to leave a nice plane on treated wood overnight.
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Scared the crap out of me but I was able to bring it back thank God.
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