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Thread: help please on restoration of Rockwell Delux 10 inch Radial arm saw

  1. #1

    help please on restoration of Rockwell Delux 10 inch Radial arm saw

    Hi all, a new member here with a Rockwell Delux 10 inch radial arm saw with a model number 33-390 and a serial number as 740Looking through all the various sites i see it is the same as a 105 delux that i have downloaded a manual for and suggest its anywhere from 1965-1970ish????


    The problem i have is the clamping arm which should lock the lower track arm at any intermediate angles (other than the detent points of 90 and 45 degrees)was missing the rod and end knob and the clamp effect could not be budged
    I have managed to take the saw and yoke assembly off and also undo the lower nut which frees the lower track arm and also the top clamp lever housing (which i got unscrewed from king pin top) along with the small set screw in the side but am unable to shift the king pin out or even move/rotate it
    Can someone tell me how this kingpin comes out surely it should be free to rotate as it has a screwdriver slot at the top which allows you to adjust it so the clamp lever sits in a certain point.
    I have soaked it in oil and even tried a bit of heat but to no avail any help please


    Would love to get this saw back to original working condition even though have never used a RAS but could be of real benefit to me ,
    It has been terribly over painted with spraycan even overspraying the rip scales,it baffles me to why people think that would improve a machine??
    thanks Andrew




    rockwell ras (1).jpgrockwell ras (2).jpgrockwell ras (3).jpgrockwell ras (4).jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
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    7,655
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    I would start with de-rusting and some spray paint. After that, it should work out.
    It helped on mine.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
    431
    PB Blaster is your friend on these saw restorations. Give those rusted or frozen fasteners/parts a good soak, leave it sit, maybe retreat it again, but they will eventually break free and you can start a proper rust remediation and perhaps a lick of paint on the appropriate surfaces if you are so inclined. But PB Blaster will get you moving, and for interfacing surfaces like the carriage rotation platters, etc, paste wax goes a long way, just like your cast iron saws, jointers, etc. I have also applied 3-in-1 oil to some pins or other locking mechanisms, but be judicious - oil and sawdust can get you right back to a frozen mechanism.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    693
    Andrew, I totally rebuilt a Delta turret arm 30C a couple of years back. I had a heck of a time getting my set screw out, used pb blaster for over a week, tapped on casting to set up vibration, etc. I was so afraid of stripping out the allen head or threads. Finally came loose... Make sure there isn't two set screws in there, one you got out and maybe another underneath. That one set screw was the hardest thing about the whole rebuild, that is I spent the most time on it. Everything else was relatively straight forward (but rusty, etc). Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

  5. #5
    Hey all thanks for all the replies and glad to say have finally got the kingpin released after many hours of soaking and trying to press it out .it was just stuck solid no 2nd set screw although I had checked previously..glad it came out with no damage and now get get on with cleaning everything up and full repaint reassemble thanks everyone

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