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Thread: How to incorporate design and proportions into projects

  1. #16
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    Another device was remembered:

    Shop Set.jpg

    At the bottom right of the image (touching the slide rule) is a pair of proportional dividers. The pivot point can be moved to adjust the ratio between the points at either end.

    That is more of a draughting instrument than a shop tool, but it comes in handy when planning a project.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #17
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    Jason, looking at that piece two things leap out; it does not look ‘grounded’ just floating, the flow from the ground is not there, four stepped corner feet could fix that. The top also looks floating, not connected to the body. Is the overhang needed for something? If so then the bottom could have been bigger.
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  3. #18
    I usually start with a drawing.

    Then progress to a mock-up model. This is the only way I have been able to evaluate a three dimensional project. The model can be 1/4 scale if it is a larger project. Or 1/2 or full scale. Just tack it together out of MDF or even hot glue and cardboard or foam core.

    Once you like your mock-up, then move on to the final project with confidence.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    By Hand & Eye is another good book, also with Jim Tolpin as one of the Authors. It's pretty long winded, in my opinion, but very good on proportions. I do use dividers, and start with relative proportions at 1:5, 1:6, 3:4, 4:5, and such, to see how a rough drawing suits the eye. It always surprises me that some random ratio just doesn't look right.

    https://lostartpress.com/products/by-hand-eye-1
    +1 whole number ratios are a great fundamental rule of thumb to fall back on in design. I also like large, actual size drawings on the flipchart/butcherr paper. For me trial and error super helpful. Finally I find a lot of design inspiration in the classic Museum pieces available in books and online references. "Furniture treasury" by Wallace Nutting and "American furniture the federal Period. 1788 – 1825" by Charles Montgomery are two of my favorites

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Buresh View Post
    Thank you everyone for the advice so far.

    Attachment 460687

    Here is an example of what I mean. I finished this cabinet for my mother earlier in the year. I feel like the top has too much of an overhang, but I'm afraid to cut it down for fear of making it worse.

    My mother is happy with it, which I guess is what matters, but I don't have the sense of pride I usually get after accomplishing a project.

    And honestly this has pretty much been the last project I worked on. I kinda lost a little motivation
    Jason I feel your pain and you're not alone. The vast majority of the furniture I built (by my own design) early in my woodworking career never made it out of the shop. My wife would say "an interesting proportions I think I know somebody who could really use something like this" and off it would go to an unsuspecting friend.

    The design of your chest has the feel of a "blanket chest" – rectangular box with a lid. There are billions of designs of blanket chest and I'm sure looking over a few of those might give you some ideas of the proportion/dimensions that appeal to your eye. A Tauton Press publication "blanket chest" by Gibson and Turner has some of my very favorite variations on the theme – lots of great design ideas. If you can't find a copy, let me know and you can borrow mine.

  6. #21
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    I make full size drawings and cut it out, tape it up to a wall and stare at it for awhile. Make adjustments and stare some more. For a table, I make the top first, prop it up to actual height and put cardboard leg cut outs under it to see what I like.

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