Contributor
Originally Posted by Lee Schierer
That was my interpretation too. A little over 1/32" over the length of his cut. You would think an error like that would show itself in other ways, like blade or burn marks as Kevin Janness mentioned.
Personally I would remove the fence toe out and try again. (maybe on something less expensive)
Contributor
I started having problems with this same setup last time I used the saw several months ago (before knee replacement). When looking along the face of the fence, light reflection showed a wavy pattern in the fence face. The fence has the Jessum fixture mounted by previous owner whose skill level appears to be quite high. The saw came with an extra fence which I will try the next time I use the saw.
Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!
Member
If the width varies, could it be that you are pushing hard enough on the fence to deflect it? Try putting a magnetic base from a dial indicator or something on the opposite side of the end of the fence. If that fixes the problem you have an answer.
The JessEm setup and Board Buddies are fine but do not offer the control of a firm feather board. It may be worth making a run with a feather board just to be sure you aren't chasing the wrong thing. On thinner cuts I will sometimes place one feather board behind the other in the feed path ahead of the blade to assure the material is under control before being cut.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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Four thousandths is the diameter of the average human hair. Wood will vary more than that if the temperature in your shop increases or decreases just a few degrees.
I would be very happy with the quality of the cut your getting. I suspect the majority of the woodworkers here have never seen a rip cut to your current tolerance
Contributor
.040” not .004” as I read it.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
I think part of the confusion is that the OP said his fence is out by .004" but the piece he cut was out by .040".
Contributor
these posts go all over the map. .040 is huge on that cut.
If i saw someone in front of me cut and how they stand and work and feed material, had a straight edge to check the fence. Id make a cut into the blade from the front then remove the offcut portion then still with the saw running id go into the heal of the blade tight on the fence and Id know what the blade is doing. Ive measured blades but dont trust that compared to the saw running.
Im not suggesting you do that cause I have no clue what your experience is and it could be a nightmare if you dont understand and cause an accident. If i told the old guys or Joe id have no worry suggesting that.
Usually there is not enough info to answer these posts, we dont see a person working or know their gear, its guessing at that point.
In "up in smoke" the police chief asks how much weed the cops think is built into the van and they all make guesses. Like Dr Evils ransom money amount. Reminds me of these posts
[OP]
Contributor
Here is a pic of front of fence using a master gauge dial reader. As you can see there is little deflection over the 27" of the miter slot to fence deflection.[ATTACH=CONFIG]4IMG_0761.jpg0630[/ATTACH]
I am thinking it is definitely user error vs an alignment issue. Will do more test cutting on scraps and report back.
Tim in Hill Country of Texas
[OP]
Contributor
So I just cut a thinner piece of Ply and the cut measure 2.610" and 2.611" on opposite end. I am ood with that so definitely apparently user error on the feed. The piece I was feeding was 47" wide and 36" long and I was feeding with the 36" side parallel to the fence.
Tim in Hill Country of Texas
Contributor
if the piece is 48 x 96 as long as stuff is right and the edge is straight and you stand in the right place and move and have the feel then that can be bang on or close as well.
If you want to make it easier and again how I work wont likely be the same but for the times ive had to be bang on put a wood insert in the saw. RIp a piece past the heal of the blade say 3" shut off the saw and hammer in a finishing nail tight to the wood Then snip the head off. You now have a riving knife that will work better than a riving knife because it will keep constant pressure to the fence. I have the feel from cutting lots but even so mess up from time to time. The finishing nail will keep constant pressure to the fence provided you are not doing a larger heavier sheet then its less effective as you can flex it. One of many things an old guys showed me.
Contributor
One of the many reasons I would never go back from a sliding table saw to a cabinet saw.
Member
I have the same saw and do 30-40ish rips at a time and they need to be right. If I am reading you right you want to be able to slide fence into place, lock it down and get a perfectly square cut?
When I move that fence into place it sure seems to me there is no way its ever going to be perfectly straight, there is just a little play from end to end, close but it seems to me no matter how you slide it into place its going to be a little off. Because of this I always measured top and bottom distance from blade and tap into square. Just don't see any other way for it to work but admittedly have not tried anything as that has always been part of my routine to setup a cut.
I have only used inexpensive table saws over the years and the fences were all of much less quality than the one on my SS and only for general construction cuts have I ever not squared my fence after sliding into place and sitting it. When I got the SS I did a few cuts without the tap square part of my routine and it was awfully close with the better fence but still have to tap square to really nail it every single time and to me I want what I'm doing to be as dead on as I can make it on a one after the other basis.
It also doesn't bother me to have a tap to square routine because I really don't try to hurry up on the table saw so the extra 10-15 seconds is of no consequence. I set every rip up with the tap square and a few moments to just look over the cut. I have also started using a feather board for safer and more consistent width feeds.
Contributor
hes ripping material nothing more
old guys did this for 6o years on cabinet saws and had no issues.
I want to cut material as i have using a fence for the most part. Big sliders have poor access ive seen guys twisted sideways on the net trying to use a rip fence.
Contributor
Only advice I have is to make sure your workpiece is against the fence all the way until it loses contact with the blade. The blade continues to cut as it enters and exits from the blade. I've had boards veer away from the fence as they exit the blade.
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