Installing a Inset Door Hinge w/Narrow Face Frame

[Mike Shields]

I had a bathroom vanity fully planned in my head (first mistake, LOL) and had already built the carcass and face frame with the approach that
the doors would be overlay to simply any minor (or major) errors in measuring. Now see if this rings a bell:


the wife wants inset doors/drawers. I love the woman, but she just had me losing the remaining marbles I had.


After a tremendous amount of time/rework (and of course no apologies from the wife), I was able to get the drawers perfect, and then the doors.
But now, the inset hinges for a face frame cabinet are too wide to fit the FF. I cannot find any other Blum base that will work with a narrow stile. The only
recourse I see is to somehow cut away some material from the inside of the cabinet to allow the base to eventually sit flush with the edge of the FF.


The FF is too narrow by like a 1/16", and the doors are already built. How would you fix this?

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TIA,

Mike

[Jamie Buxton]

I never use those weird adapters. Instead I use wood blocking, usually fastened to cabinet wall. Then I use a standard mounting plate. This approach seems like it would work for you.

[Warren Lake]

depending on how old you are you will lose your marbles anyway. Sorry about that.

I dont see the whole picture so cant say style etc but butt hinges bit more work and might make sense on your style its not shown.

too much stuff has euro hinges as its the simple easy lazy ass time saving way.

Old guys taught draw full scale and always have your hardware before you do your drawings.

[Rob Sack]

The plates shown in your photo obviously won't work. However, you have several options using Blum hinges. You can block the interior side of the cabinet making the blocks flush with the inside of the face frame. Then use 0 mm plates with inset (also called full crank) hinges. These will work with a standard boring distance for the doors. Another option is to use thicker plates without the blocking in conjunction if necessary with Blum's 3mm plastic shims so that the plates ends up flush with the inside of the face frame and again use the inset hinges. I've done it both ways and it works just fine.

[Jared Sankovich]

First: throw those "face frame" plates out. They only make sense if there isn't a partition to mount normal plates to.

Second: measure the offset from the edge of the face frame to the partition/ cabinet side. Then order the closest height plate to match.

These are salice, so the offset is way different than a blum plate but you should be able to see the concept.
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[David Zaret]

The plates shown in your photo obviously won't work. However, you have several options using Blum hinges. You can block the interior side of the cabinet making the blocks flush with the inside of the face frame. Then use 0 mm plates with inset (also called full crank) hinges. These will work with a standard boring distance for the doors. Another option is to use thicker plates without the blocking in conjunction if necessary with Blum's 3mm plastic shims so that the plates ends up flush with the inside of the face frame and again use the inset hinges. I've done it both ways and it works just fine.

this.

blum makes a number of thicker plates - i use the 3mm as a standard for my cabinets, but you can get 6mm --> 12mm. measure your gap, and if there is a plate that gets close to "fill it" (check the plate specifications so you're comparing the gap to the plate thickness correctly), go with the plates. if not, as stated, block out to the edge of the face frame, and use zero mm plates and full crank, and call it good.

the 9mm plates are useful for corner cabinets, where you have to suspend an inset door in the center of the cabinet from a floating stile... otherwise they are a big PIA.

-- dz