Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 34

Thread: NJ Shop Build - Hardwood Floor

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,885
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    There's plenty of options for unfinished engineered flooring out there. Hurst Hardwoods sometimes has decent deals on red oak but the lot sizes can be a bit limited.

    FYI - most engineered hardwoods can be attached directly to your fully cured slab nowadays using Bostik Greenforce or similar. Not inexpensive stuff but with the price of plywood what it is right now it'd probably save you some costs to eliminate it from the design.
    I could rant and rave about issues I had with Hurst Hardwoods for all the flooring in my house, but I'll let it go.

    But the important take home lesson was to buy extra flooring when initially purchased and store it. It may be impossible to match it in the future if boards get destroyed by water, for example. And in a shop, that's certainly a possibility. And if the boards are glued down to concrete, it's an incredibly difficult job to remove specific boards. And all the companies you call want to do is rip out the entire floor and replace it.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    Ottawa, Canada
    Posts
    69
    This past winter I installed cork flooring in my workshop. It feels great on the feet but is a bit fragile. I've already notice a few spots where to cork has chipped. I filled it with repair wax and will keep an eye on it. Definitely not the cheapest but looks great and for a small space it didn't break the bank.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    72
    if floors are glued to the subfloor instead of nailed/stapled, does that present a greater risk of damage from wood movement?

    Thanks,
    Sal

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
    Posts
    442
    Yes, and they have their anti-slip version, specifically designed for stair treads.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    You might look into Osmo if you're going the living finishes route. Quite a bit more durable than BLO.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    2,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Sal Cangialosi View Post
    if floors are glued to the subfloor instead of nailed/stapled, does that present a greater risk of damage from wood movement?
    Engineered flooring moves pretty minimally, nothing to worry about. That Bostik adhesive I’d mentioned is made specifically for this application.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    72
    Thank you, Peter

    Sal

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    2,203
    n/p. Solid hardwood directly over fully cured concrete is also an option with Greenforce.

    https://www.bostik.com/files/live/si...nforce_tds.pdf

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,508
    Blog Entries
    11
    If you are looking for hard, look to stranded bamboo. With the typical ceramic (aluminum oxide fortified poly) finish, very durable. I used recently Cali bamboo in my home from Lowes, I paid about $4 per sq ft in February.
    NOW you tell me...

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    N CA
    Posts
    1,277
    I would go with the QS white oak. The engineered products all have the chamfered edge and that to me is just more dirt and grim that has to be collected, swept, vac’d. A nice flat wooden floor would be what you are looking for

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,885
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    Engineered flooring moves pretty minimally, nothing to worry about. That Bostik adhesive I’d mentioned is made specifically for this application.
    The Bostik adhesive is a nightmare to remove, though, if you have to. My flooring guy hates the stuff. And even having very hard engineered flooring in my house, if you drop something, you know it. Wouldn't be my first choice for a shop.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Falls Church, VA
    Posts
    2,330
    Blog Entries
    1
    When we put oak flooring in our house, I insisted that it not be stained. Makes repairs soooo easy.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    72
    Wood floors will be installed shortly. We ended up with 2 1/4" rift sawn white oak.

    The room will be used primarily for bench work. I do not want a film finish as it will wear regularly. Considering a hard wax oil finish and open to other recommendations. Started looking at Rubio monocoat, watco tung oil, Saicos, osmo - but would appreciate any actual experience with these finishes on a wood floor.

    thank you all
    Thanks,
    Sal

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    I think that the hardwax oil idea is a good one as it looks good and is easily renewable. I can't comment a specific product but I believe there are hardwax oil products specifically intended for floor use, if I'm not mistaken.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,754
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Backner View Post
    One possibility that is rarely seen for new installations today but used extensively during the industrial revolution was end grain flooring. I've been to multiple factory auctions in New England where one of the most contested lots was the floor on which everyone was standing - typically made of upright pieces of 2x4" white oak anywhere from 2" to 16" long (the pieces are upright, glued only to the floor and not to each other so they can be removed/replaced if damaged somehow). These floors were comfortable, caused no damage to tooling if something was dropped, and could support incredible weight (think 50+ ton machinery). One auction I went to in Lowell (MA) saw 100,000 sf of a 16" thick white oak floor sell for $25k. This required the buyer to come back after the place was cleared out of everything else and take up the floor. I remember talking with the buyer - he ran some kind of factory in California (I think) that produced several kinds of doodads/toys and he found the old growth white oak from such floors to be superior to the wood available today.

    I've often thought a floor made from 2 or 2-/2" cutoffs of good quality 2x4s, glued to the floor and then sanded flat would make a great shop floor. Even when varnished, the end grain would provide enough 'tooth' to not be slippery but it would remain easy to clean. It would also be comfortable, warm over the concrete base, and forgiving to dropped tools. Even heavy machinery would roll easily across such a floor on either wheeled bases or with a pallet jack.
    End grain flooring was used extensively in factories but it has a weakness. If it gets very wet for a long time it expands and buckles up. You can park a big fork truck on a small patch and it will never go back down. Just have to repair it. An abandoned factory looks like ocean waves.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    1,346
    would go with a gym floor finish, lasts for a year in high school gym use, then gets screened and new finish applied. Should last for a lot of years and then get touched up in high traffic areas
    talk with a commercial cleaning supply house about what they supply for wood gym floor finish

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •