Decided to keep my dad's old router table...but the router is toast.

[Chess Baloo]

I had taken home the router table top and the fence, but I decided to go pick up the cabinet as well since the top was made for it. It has been sitting in a barn for probably 5 years and was in nasty condition (mouse poop! EEK!!) and that is why I had not taken it initially....but we blew it out, and then when I got it home I took everything out and scrubbed the hell out of it...spayed it with bleach and lysol and anything else I could think of LOL, and sanded where the mice had eaten away at a couple of spots. Anyway, I had to do a little work to get the drawers to fit back in, but all in all, I think it is a nice useful item now - plus my dad built it so there's that.

The router however, is dead. Not surprised since it probably has not been touched in many many years. I am attaching pictures of the table and the parts. I would like to put another (new) router in there, and eventually close in the front with a plexiglass door (but that will be later!). Can I use the existing top panel and that round piece (sorry I don't know the terms - I am just learning all this stuff!) with a new router? Or do I buy a router and somehow adjust the panel for the router?

Also, he made that top right compartment (I assume) as a place to store the cord...there are holes coming out of the back and the side...and a cutout on the inside. I think I would want a stop/start button on there somewhere...so that might be another change I add on later.


(Hopefully y'all understand what I am asking - I know I sound a bit clueless - because I am! )

Thanks for any advice!! (And I don't know why these pictures are posting upside down - they are right side up on my PC!)

Edit...looks like this is a "universal plate" https://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509...5072819&sr=8-6
So I guess I should be able to fit a router to the plate...although I was hoping to not have to drill more holes.

[Dave Sabo]

What kind / brand of router is the deceased ?

[Chess Baloo]

It's a Porter Cable 8529.

[Jim Becker]

Ok, that was a 12 amp "2.5hp" plunger that replaced the PC7529 that preceded it. If you want to stay with a 12 amp router, pretty much any of the current offerings from DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc., will work. I personally prefer a heavier router in the table, but if you don't anticipate swinging larger diameter cutters, you don't need the heavier 15 amp tools.

[Chess Baloo]

Ok, that was a 12 amp "2.5hp" plunger that replaced the PC7529 that preceded it. If you want to stay with a 12 amp router, pretty much any of the current offerings from DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc., will work. I personally prefer a heavier router in the table, but if you don't anticipate swinging larger diameter cutters, you don't need the heavier 15 amp tools.

Thanks. What about the "lift" function that so many mention? Do all routers come with this feature now? (Again, sorry, this is ALL new to me - I have only used a palm router and that was just this year for the first time - I am very much in the learning stages!)

[Jim Becker]

Thanks. What about the "lift" function that so many mention? Do all routers come with this feature now? (Again, sorry, this is ALL new to me - I have only used a palm router and that was just this year for the first time - I am very much in the learning stages!)

Some plunge routers have above the table raise/lower for use in tables. But many folks use a router with a fixed base in an actual table insert that provides the lift. Honestly, the convenience is nice, but a simple router motor in a fixed base where you have access to the router body, either directly or via a door, can be VERY precisely raised/lowered merely by unlocking it, rotating it and re-locking it. It comes down to what you want to invest...

[Chess Baloo]

Some plunge routers have above the table raise/lower for use in tables. But many folks use a router with a fixed base in an actual table insert that provides the lift. Honestly, the convenience is nice, but a simple router motor in a fixed base where you have access to the router body, either directly or via a door, can be VERY precisely raised/lowered merely by unlocking it, rotating it and re-locking it. It comes down to what you want to invest...

Thank you.

I don't mind spending a bit if it gets me some real convenience. Since I have the plate already (and it is a 9 x 12 plate which apparently is not that common a size) what are my options, if I want to stick with that same plate? Would I have to buy a different plate (insert) to get the lift feature? I guess a better way to word my question is....is the lift strictly a function/feature of an insert plate. If so, then I am probably SOL there, since the table is already cut to fit the existing plate.

[Dan Cameron]

Grizzly offers router lifts with 9 x 12 plates. You need also to take note of the router plate thickness as well as specific lift/router pairing compatibility listings.

[Chess Baloo]

Grizzly offers router lifts with 9 x 12 plates. You need also to take note of the router plate thickness as well as specific lift/router pairing compatibility listings.

Yep - I understand that. I think I just want to stick with the plate that is there now. I am still learning about all this so probably best to not try and get too complicated yet. And I won't be doing anything fancy - for a while I imagine I will just be puttering and learning how to use the table.

[Ralph Okonieski]

Really think about getting a lift. I do understand you are not planning anything “fancy” but the lifts allow you to adjust router height in very small amounts, something you will probably encounter even doing simpler things. Once you have a lift, you will be glad you did. As a disclaimer, I did not have a lift with my first table. After building a table, decided to get the lift and am thankful for it on every project. Can you get by without one? Sure, but not as much fun!

[Chess Baloo]

Really think about getting a lift. I do understand you are not planning anything “fancy” but the lifts allow you to adjust router height in very small amounts, something you will probably encounter even doing simpler things. Once you have a lift, you will be glad you did. As a disclaimer, I did not have a lift with my first table. After building a table, decided to get the lift and am thankful for it on every project. Can you get by without one? Sure, but not as much fun!

Using my existing table and plate, what lift could I get that would work, and with what router?

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1165-...d-tools&sr=1-3


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-2-25-...outer/50056435

[David Stone (CT)]

I used a shop made router table with that exact same Rousseau plate as you've got for almost 20 years, before replacing it with a router lift. (And, BTW, what is normally meant by router lift is an accessory that marries a proprietary router plate to an integrated mechanism below that holds a fixed base router motor, which you purchase separately from a power tool maker. Incra, Woodpeckers and Jessem are some brands of lifts.)

Personally, I think you are on the right track to stick with what you have for the moment--which is perfectly good--and, like you say, learn the basics of using a router table. Then you can make an informed judgment whether the convenience elements of having a router lift (namely, no longer making the height adjustments under the table and having finer control of them, plus not needing to pull the motor out of the table to change bits) are worth its several hundred dollars cost or not (and quite possibly having to replace your whole top in the process due to the sizing issue you correctly identify--DAMHIKT).

Before switching over to the lift, I used a medium size fixed base router under the Rousseau plate (mine happened to be a 2 HP Bosch 1617). ...As you have observed, the fixed base portion bolts to the underside through holes in the plate. The spacing of those varies by router, so you may have to drill some new ones but that is easy to do.

[Ed Aumiller]

The Bosch router and base you listed would work great with the plate you have. There is a real good chance that you will not have to drill more holes. Even if you do, the plate has circles on the bottom where it would be easy to mount it...

Another option is to either buy another PC 8529 router off of eBay or to fix the one you have... parts are readily available for it.. probably just bad bearings if it is frozen...

Also, the cabinet looks like the one by Norm Abram from the New Yankee workshop..

Looks like your father did a great job of making it... glad you decided to keep it..

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...mageHoverTitle

[Jim Becker]

Using my existing table and plate, what lift could I get that would work, and with what router?

Using your existing plate, you'd need a router that has native under-table height adjustment. That's a fixed router plate. A "true" lift would replace the current plate and hold a router motor within it's mechanism for the most part.

[Chess Baloo]

Using your existing plate, you'd need a router that has native under-table height adjustment. That's a fixed router plate. A "true" lift would replace the current plate and hold a router motor within it's mechanism for the most part.

Thanks! So much to learn!