Where are you with the unicorn sharpening method?

[steven c newman]

That would be a result of how hard one shoved the chisel into the cloth wheel.......too much pressure, and the wheel will deform. Try a lighter touch....you are buffing with the wheel, not grinding with it...ease up a bit, and let the wheel do the work.

[Charles Guest]

You can make a back bevel very small. You can make a microbevel of the bevel very small.

They're still both back bevels or microbevels.

They are nothing new. Imparting one or the other via a buffer does not make it new. People have been doing this for decades.

Surely anybody who has ever had a buffing wheel on their grinder, or a dedicated buffer, has not been able to resist the temptation of offering a plane iron or chisel to said buffer. The rest is just minor tweaking. It would take an idiot of the first class to stand there and hold the tip of a chisel on a buffing wheel (soft or otherwise) until the edge is just obliterated. Anybody with a basic understanding of rotating power equipment knows you can't do this.

[Edward Weber]

You can make a back bevel very small. You can make a microbevel of the bevel very small.

They're still both back bevels or microbevels.

They are nothing new. Imparting one or the other via a buffer does not make it new. People have been doing this for decades.

Removing metal to create a sharp edge, sounds simple enough to me.
I sharpen my chisels to a single bevel point, after some usage the edge begins to dull very slightly, leaving a moderately less sharp edge (I call it working sharp). This is where the sharpness and durability are in balance. A decent chisel will keep this balance or working sharp edge for quite some time before the edge needs to be addressed.
The Mythical creature system seems to be artificially trying to get to this point, which comes naturally with use. I ask, why bother.
I would like to know from those of you using two or three bevels, how do you use your chisel bevel down? It would seem you'd be at an awfully high angle of attack making it more difficult to use. Just curious.
Some may find this interesting/helpful
https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHo...s_Cut_Wood.htm

[Mike Brady]

I have to say I don't get the whole obsession with trying to make cheap chisels perform. I don't hear or read anything good about cheap saws or cheap planes even though they probably can be made to work to a useable level. This all stems back to Paul Sellers and the Aldi chisels. I admit I tried some and found that they performed and looked as expected... lackluster. Compared to the modern and vintage tools in my assortment, they were maybe ok for the handyman tool box, but not a replacement for anything but the worst plastic handled ones.

[Edward Weber]

This all stems back to Paul Sellers and the Aldi chisels. I admit I tried some and found that they performed and looked as expected... lackluster. Compared to the modern and vintage tools in my assortment, they were maybe ok for the handyman tool box, but not a replacement for anything but the worst plastic handled ones.

I agree 100%
I have a set of those (shop-fox branded). They work in a pinch but they do not last. The steel in them is simply put, junk. I use them in rough situations, the ones where I wouldn't subject my good chisels to. They chip, bend and basically fall apart with any kind of heavy use. For light paring they're passable.

[Charles Guest]

Removing metal to create a sharp edge, sounds simple enough to me.
I sharpen my chisels to a single bevel point, after some usage the edge begins to dull very slightly, leaving a moderately less sharp edge (I call it working sharp). This is where the sharpness and durability are in balance. A decent chisel will keep this balance or working sharp edge for quite some time before the edge needs to be addressed.
The Mythical creature system seems to be artificially trying to get to this point, which comes naturally with use. I ask, why bother.
I would like to know from those of you using two or three bevels, how do you use your chisel bevel down? It would seem you'd be at an awfully high angle of attack making it more difficult to use. Just curious.
Some may find this interesting/helpful
https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHo...s_Cut_Wood.htm

There's no rule that a microbevel is high, per se, it's just a slightly higher angle than the one at which the tool was ground. You could have a micro at 20* on a chisel ground at 15* Or one at 15* on one ground at 10*, or one at 30* on a chisel ground at 25*.

Up to the user....

Or just flat grind at one angle. Nothing wrong with it. In the fullness of time, it's been the default.

[Rafael Herrera]

What's wrong with getting a cheap chisel performing as well as a chisel that's 30 to 100 times more expensive? A chrome vanadium steel chisel from HF costs $1.67, it works pretty well with or without the buffer.

This is one of them chisels on american beech, it didn't fold, chip or loose its edge, it preformed as well as other vintage cast steel or Ashley Isle chisels.

chisel.jpg

[steven c newman]

Not a thing wrong...unless one is a snob. Used a Aldi's chisel today....to clean up T & G joints in Ash....and have been doing that for about a week...no issues.

Makes one wonder....is it the tool holding the woodworker back, or, is it the woodworker holding the tool back? A P-poor worker tends to blame the tools...rather than himself...I think that is how the saying goes.

[Edwin Santos]

That would be a result of how hard one shoved the chisel into the cloth wheel.......too much pressure, and the wheel will deform. Try a lighter touch....you are buffing with the wheel, not grinding with it...ease up a bit, and let the wheel do the work.

Not a thing wrong...unless one is a snob. Used a Aldi's chisel today....to clean up T & G joints in Ash....and have been doing that for about a week...no issues.

Makes one wonder....is it the tool holding the woodworker back, or, is it the woodworker holding the tool back? A P-poor worker tends to blame the tools...rather than himself...I think that is how the saying goes.

Steven - thank you for a constructive response. I'll try a lighter touch. I saw the video Winston linked at one time, and the attraction was not just the durability but also the speed at being able to retouch the edge and get back to work.
And yes, I admire craftsmen who do fine work with humble tools.

When different techniques come along, whether old or new, I see no harm in trying them out. If it turns out to be a waste of time, it's my time and there are worse ways to waste it.
On the other hand, if the technique is a keeper so much the better.
And if I am going to be an idiot, may as well be a first class one.
Thanks again,

[Charles Guest]

I have to say I don't get the whole obsession with trying to make cheap chisels perform. I don't hear or read anything good about cheap saws or cheap planes even though they probably can be made to work to a useable level. This all stems back to Paul Sellers and the Aldi chisels. I admit I tried some and found that they performed and looked as expected... lackluster. Compared to the modern and vintage tools in my assortment, they were maybe ok for the handyman tool box, but not a replacement for anything but the worst plastic handled ones.

The Preston router planes Sellers has, more than one, will set you back four figures in the vintage market if you can find one for sale at all. I guess the Aldi thing is supposed to be some sort of nod to frugal woodworking. Good for a laugh at least, the notion of 'frugal' woodworking and those as well equipped as Sellers seemingly promoting it.

When a square foot of decent lumber an inch thick costs over $5, and up to many multiples of that number, you are not engaged in anything remotely resembling a frugal hobby.

A buck fifty chisel isn't going to make the whole thing gel all of a sudden.

[Dave Zellers]

The Preston router planes Sellers has, more than one, will set you back four figures in the vintage market

Wowzers! And last April he gave one away when he reached 500K subs. But geeze, it just looks like a wide plate, 2 knobs, and the cutter.

[Charles Guest]

There was a firm that used to make a reproduction, I think it sold for $600 or so. Not sure if that company is still in business. Preston, of course, is not.

[Mike Allen1010]

Many thanks to all who have posted on this thread. My sincere intent in posting was to solicit the insights, experience and perspectives of my fellow Neander's with regard to the unicorn sharpening method. I really appreciate all those who shared their thoughts. I found the comments and perspectives helpful.

As usual, the topic of sharpening generated a lively response. I sincerely appreciate the opportunity that SMC affords to learn from like-minded hand tool woodworkers. Personally I can live without the sniping, have enough that in middle school.

Cheers, Mike

[Dave Zellers]

There was a firm that used to make a reproduction, I think it sold for $600 or so. Not sure if that company is still in business. Preston, of course, is not.

Yeah, I was thinking it could be produced and sold for a profit around $500, so close. Perhaps just not enough Neanderthals out there. I love my Veritas router plane.

[Charles Guest]

Yeah, I was thinking it could be produced and sold for a profit around $500, so close. Perhaps just not enough Neanderthals out there. I love my Veritas router plane.

https://www.walkemooretools.com/

Not sure if they're still making them or not. A steal at the listed prices. I could have sworn that I saw them selling at $600 or so. Could have been a bronze version by the same company.