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Thread: Bandsaw Advice - Buy new or upgrade old?

  1. #16
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    Look for a local store like these, they can help.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=band...WnAjblJjV8;mv:[[29.875375699999996,-94.9131043],[29.367535300000004,-95.5590421]];tbs:lrf:!1m4!1u3!2m2!3m1!1e1!1m4!1u2!2m2!2m1!1e1! 1m4!1u16!2m2!16m1!1e1!1m4!1u16!2m2!16m1!1e2!2m1!1e 2!2m1!1e16!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Arnsdorff View Post
    5. Some mentioned the "cutter" and I assume the blade is being referenced. The 1/2" 3 TPI blade from Timberwolf I'm using in the pic for resaw is actually really good but I added a bit of twist being lazy and trying to cut radius on it. Now I need a new blade to correct this. Once again this leads me to the desire for the quick blade changes provided by a de-tensioner.
    I gave up on the manufacturer you mentioned as I found their blades don't hold an edge long enough for my resawing, which is primarily wide (12" - 16") North American hardwoods. I ended up with more scratch stock that I'll ever use in my lifetime. I also don't change my resaw blade on my Felder. For other bandsaw work, I use my older Powermatic 141 14" bandsaw. If you've only one bandsaw, I can understand the desire for a quick-change setup.

  3. #18
    I've only copped that this is an old design machine.
    Didn't realize they went back that far, there has been a lot of changes since, like cast iron bandwheels
    for one.
    I'll bet that frame on legs weighs as much as the floor standing machines now, (which I thought it was)
    As said beefy threads and stout carriage assembly make for easier blade changes, if comfortably sized.

    That could narrow things down or vice versa...
    the deal breaker could be the fancy trunnion?

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Arnsdorff View Post
    Alex - I'm glad you commented about the Grizzly.
    Lets compare one of the better bandsaws in Grizzly's lineup the G0514X2B 19 inch bandsaw which I owned prior with the new Powermatic PM1500 15 inch I just purchased. Both manufactured in Taiwan both 3hp and only $200 price difference (during the Powermatic 10% off sale with free shipping).

    One would think the 19 inch Grizzly would be a much larger saw in a different class but in reality the Powermatic 15 has more resaw height 14 inches vs 12 inches on the Grizzly. The Powermatic is also taller 80 inches vs 76 inches for the Grizzly. Grizzly wins the weight contest but only just barely 427 lbs vs 396 lbs for the Powermatic. Again one would think such a larger saw 19 vs 15 would be substantially heavier. Blade length again Powermatic 153 inches vs 143 inches for the larger Grizzly.

    Then there's the warranty, 5 year for the Powermatic vs 1 year for the Grizzly. Honestly both saws have some larger saw features that are interesting. The rack and pinion table tilt on the Grizzly superior in every way to the Powermatic if one is using the tilt feature on a regular basis. The Grizzly has a much larger table, only issue is Grizzly can't seem to grind them flat. Mine was out, the replacement table they sent was even worse.

    I prefer the T style fence on the Powermatic which is quite heavy duty. The fence on this particular Grizzly is pretty good though. WARNING: The fence is one of the things Grizzly tends to cheap out on you really have to watch what fence you are getting when shopping their saws.

    Speaking of Grizzly cheaping out, plastic handwheels seriously? (face palm)

    Here's my bottom line after owning 6 Grizzly/Shop Fox machines, all but one arrived with defects I had to fix and that got on my last nerve. The China/Taiwan manufacture knowingly ships defective machines, on purpose sticking the customer with their defects they don't care and I'm just so DONE with that, to infinity.

  5. #20
    Of course it's ultimately up to you.
    Speaking for myself ONLY, I would throw the TW blade in the trash and try something/anything else. I buy mine from Sawblade.com but there are plenty of good manufacturers out there.
    All of the problems/annoyances you listed can be either repaired or replaced with aftermarket accessories.
    Try a new blade and see how it goes, it's probably the least expensive way to help you make your decision.
    Just my opinion

  6. #21
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    Thanks for all the clarification. You are in a good place with this saw. I have several Grizzly tools and all are really solid for their price point. Your machine has given you a couple of decades of service so you have certainly gotten your money’s worth from it. It will be really tough to get a solid recommendation as to whether to keep or replace.

    If you feel the base machine is solid you could certainly throw a few hundred bucks in after market stuff at it. Your description of the guide post and the guides in general could make using the tool a daily annoyance. I am afraid that it is going to be up to you in the end. ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #22
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    Eric, Grizzly is not without their faults. When I decided to upgrade I figured out what I wanted and then found the machines that fit into that range. I'm a turner at heart so I routinely round blanks for turning so a solid table was near the top. Resaw height didn't need to be any higher than the HF with the riser block. I narrowed it down to the Laguna BX 18 and the Grizzly The Laguna had more resaw than I would ever use but in the end it came down to the trunnions. The G0514X2 came with cast iron ones (vs the Laguna's aluminum) and a rack and pinion system for tilting the table. Then Grizzly sent me a 10% off coupon and that sealed it.

    When I got the grizzly it vibrated, which was one of the complaints on-line about it. At first I just used the slower speed but then I traced it down to the urethane tires. With them off and the throw away blade on it was smooth. I could have gotten a replacement set from Grizzly but I decided to go with ones from Blue Max. The 10% off more than paid for them. Now I can balance a nickel on edge, start it up and shut it off without it falling over. I tried with a dime but it kept rolling off the table.

    Charles the fence is a hit or miss on the G0514. It works well but the locking handle when released flips up and is in the way since it's on the material side of the fence. It took a minor fix to solve but it's still a stupid design. I have several Powermatic tools and the head of the local wood turners club has a PM1500 that I've used. It has some features I like but I don't think for my use I would pay extra for it. The plastic wheels don't bother me one bit. They work just fine. Metal wheels do look nice and if I really want I could replace them but I'm fine with saving $100 and sticking with plastic.

    Both the Grizzly and the Laguna were about the same weight. The Rikon was quite a bit lighter. I set a budget of $2k so the Powermatic was out. I'm sure the PM1500 would have looked very nice next to my PJ882 jointer.
    Last edited by Alex Zeller; 06-29-2021 at 1:59 PM.

  8. #23
    My "upgrade" was to a Jet SFX, 14 inch. It does not have the issues you are experiencing but 14 inches from the blade to the column may not be what you need. I find a 3/4 blade works significantly better for me when re-sawing than a 1/2. It has a fence that flips from about 1/2 inch high to 6 inches high. Metal handwheels, easy detension, etc.. They probably make a bigger one with similar features. It has 13 inch clearance for resawing but the deepest I've done is about 9 inches in cherry. That required a fairly slow feed rate but the saw did it fine. The bottom blade guides are a bit difficult to adjust but other than that I like it a lot. Dust extraction also works well (2 ports).

  9. #24
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    Luckily my economics right now are allowing me to make the decision to buy new. The advice that upgrading my current saw means I will still have a lot of the shortcomings no matter what I do along with planning to do this for many years to come has made the buy new decision for me.
    I’ve upped my pain threshold and put the following saws on my list to choose from:

    - Harvey ALPHA HW615P $2690+$360=$3050
    - Powermatic PM1500 $3000+$0 shipping=$3000
    - Laguna 18BX $2499+$99=$2600
    - Laguna LT16 $3499+$199=$3700
    - Laguna LT18 $3900+$199=$4100

    The Laguna 18BX looks like a good coat point. I’m not clear how different the LT18 is from the 18BX.
    The Powermatic is the only saw I e seen but it’s been a while and I wasn’t looking for a bandsaw when I saw it. It’s sure far from a bad choice.
    I started another thread asking about Harvey and what machines they make as they indicate they are the OEM for other brands. They look good but I’m not sure what to make of them. I’m all for buying American and good quality but I’m disappointed in no American choices and the shell game all the manufacturers have resorted to.

  10. #25
    I would have thought Rikon with Van Husky's approval, (look him up on here)
    and the many Grizzly's like John Tenyck's tank of a 17" would be up there too.

    On your list the 18BX looks like clear winner, (to me) if that tension system is good.
    I'd be looking at the screws on all of them for some idea of that, along with the weight of the machine.

    For me wanting the best ripping and resawing machine is the priority, so bigger wheels (cast iron) is better,
    Saying that, I haven't heard of anything happening to those granite wheeled bandsaws, I'd be cautious personally.

    and I pretty much use a 3/4" for everything.
    I don't care for fancy trunnions, although I may make one someday, if I feel I want that option,
    might be more want for making a better designed one that I cobbled together.

    I have a 24" machine, and find its a breeze to de-tension my blades.
    I suppose a 20" or close to that of some sort of weight around 200kg isn't too bad.

    I know you said you're looking to spend for new,
    but that shouldn't rule out a new used saw.
    Last edited by Tom Trees; 07-02-2021 at 8:52 PM.

  11. After spending an hour reviewing BBB complaints and a number of customer service horror stories I'd cross off any bandsaw that starts with an "L".

  12. #27
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    If I remember correctly the LT bandsaws by Laguna are made in Europe and have Lesson motors. They are an industrial saw. My personal opinion is they are a step above all the other's you've listed. I don't know much about the Harvey saws so I can't comment on it other than they are a Chinese company that makes tools for companies like Grizzly (and I think Powermatic) who are now selling tools under their own name. Rockler had a BX18 on the floor at their NH location when I was looking so I got to see it but it was sold so I couldn't take it home with me. Had it not been sold I probably would have left with it.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    After spending an hour reviewing BBB complaints and a number of customer service horror stories I'd cross off any bandsaw that starts with an "L".
    Big Bill Broonzy?
    Customer service is for those whom expect their machine to break down.

  14. #29
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    BS Decision Matrix.jpg
    BS DM Result.jpg

    I made a decision matrix to help pick a band saw. I put a couple of the Grizzly models in as well as the Rikon. Interestingly, the Gizzly 21" showed up at the top of my list no matter how I did the ratings. I guess this is why Grizzly is a popular choice. They do provide a good value. My experience with them leads me to look for a "higher quality" but without the ability to lay hands on any of the units makes it hard to asses this aspect. I have only find good comments about Harvey although fairly sparse as well. I want to give the Harvey a try but it is one of the smaller units on my list and you know bigger is better ;-).

    My current bandsaw is in the matrix and as expected scores quite low but I know the flaws with it so I'm sure my bias shows up. After reviewing all the machines on the market that I could find (including some not included in the matrix), my bandsaw does have some good specifications and I could do much worse. Interestingly, my saw is built with a single casting and has a lot of weight making it rigid and low vibration. I've decided to keep my old bandsaw and add the new one. This will cost me a reasonable amount more because at a minimum I'll be upgrading the guides but that will give me one to keep a small blade on and one to keep a larger blade.

  15. #30
    I can't say I'd disagree with your decision matrix. if buying new.
    A 270kg 21" saw with seemingly compact frame and big table, with rack and pinion, quick release lever (is there a switch, maybe a non issue there, switches are likely cheap)
    Does it get any better?

    A 20" Centauro of some description might better it used, the guides would be much nicer if you want that feel of "quality"
    Not having actually put a blade on a Centauro, it looks like you can nestle it into the retracted telescopic guard without too much of a fight.
    My larger ACM machine has a nice hinged cover and is soo much nicer than on the Far Eastern 20" I had before, the same as on that griz.

    (Some) of the other 20" machines from Italy are a bit lighter duty at around 200kg for bog standard ACM, if you can find one used, as
    the newer 20 inchers are actually 540mm anymore (in Europe anyway)
    Still likely great for one who wants an upgrade
    Your paying for those GL456 guides, (which some don't like, I can't understand why, standard size mounting shaft, FYI)
    and the heavy screw for tensioning, likely a good bit heavier duty on the Centauro/Minimax

    What is the negative in getting a saw like this, (say if a nice one came up handy like a nice ACM/older Italian Felder/Aggazani/Laguna LT series/ or slightly heavier SNAC 540 series like Bridgewood, Centauro/Minimax I think heavier again.
    You might have to spend a tiny bit more effort in tracking your blade with the flat tires (should you sell the other)
    The time lost would likely be saved with the much nicer guides than on the Eastern machine though.

    If I was to nit pick on the 21" machine, one could say the guides and the tension screw could be a bit posher.
    The screws probably sound for 3/4" blades though, but those guides look troublesome to me.
    That combined with the blade guard might be an irritant for some,

    Maybe I've just been a bit spoilt with the nicer guides that absolutely ooze quality, which have never needed cleaning
    (well I can speak for the thrust guide, as my side rollers need to be replaced and not cheap from scottandsargeant, or Conway saw, so are retracted)

    Can they be swapped out I wonder or does the Grizz have a different size to the Italian machines
    Last edited by Tom Trees; 07-04-2021 at 1:03 AM.

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