Bevel angles for Japanese Paring Chisels / Usu Nomi

[Theo Hall]

Hello folks,

Recently I bought a few Fujihiro Usu Nomi Paring chisels. They came from the manufacturer with a 30° bevel on them.
I have read elsewhere that a 24° - 26° bevel can be beneficial for Japanese Paring Chisels.

Anyone that Japanese Paring chisels, may I ask what bevel you use on yours, and what you have found works best?

This will also be the first time I have sharpened chisels with a single, flat Bevel (as is the tradition with these tools).
I have previously only sharpened Micro-bevels on my Water stones, and use a 1,000 grit and an 8,000 grit. This works very very well.

However, for such a larger surface (an entire bevel), would the jump from 1,000 to 8,000 grit be a bit too much? Again, any advice about what works for you would be much appreciated here.

Thank you

[Curt Putnam]

I use 1000, 6000, abd 13000. I firmly believe that the best edges are finished with a grit of 0.5 microns or less.

[Jim Koepke]

My preference is to use an intermediary grit, 1000, 4000 then 8000. This then requires less time and wear on the finishing stone.

An 8000 stone may not leave as fine an edge as a 13000 stone, for me it does most of what is needed of it.

jtk

[Elise Anna Boer]

I firmly believe that the best edges are finished with a grit of 0.5 microns or less.

Believing is not the same as hard proof In fact, a Japanese gentleman who is a retired temple carpenter once explained to me that when the bevel and ura are polished too much it can actually increase friction.

But to keep on topic, the bevels on my usu nomis are about 28 degrees. I find this works well for both soft and hard woods. When they are really dull I start on my 400 grit diamond stone followed by the King Deluxe 1200, Naniwa Hibiki 3000 and then the Hibiki 8000. When they just need a touch up the Hibiki 3000 and 8000 are enough.

[Derek Cohen]

Hello folks,

Recently I bought a few Fujihiro Usu Nomi Paring chisels. They came from the manufacturer with a 30° bevel on them.
I have read elsewhere that a 24° - 26° bevel can be beneficial for Japanese Paring Chisels.

Anyone that Japanese Paring chisels, may I ask what bevel you use on yours, and what you have found works best?

This will also be the first time I have sharpened chisels with a single, flat Bevel (as is the tradition with these tools).
I have previously only sharpened Micro-bevels on my Water stones, and use a 1,000 grit and an 8,000 grit. This works very very well.

However, for such a larger surface (an entire bevel), would the jump from 1,000 to 8,000 grit be a bit too much? Again, any advice about what works for you would be much appreciated here.

Thank you

Hi Theo

The bevel angle on a paring chisel is usually lower than on a bench chisel since, long handle and design aside, the paring chisel is pushed and not hit with a hammer. This means less force on the bevel edge. However, edge retention also depends on the type of wood you work, and the quality of the steel in the blade. For this reason, 25 degrees may be a starting point for the paring chisel, but you may end up higher. Trial and error. Do not be afraid to go higher - it is not as if the lower bevel angle is what makes a paring chisel; the longer blade and longer handle change the dynamics of use, and this is the important area. Blades can pare wonderfully at 30 degrees.

1000 jump to 8000 on a full bevel face? I would not recommend this with most solid steel bevels, since the action is inefficient. Most who do this jump do so using a micro secondary bevel. The reduced amount of steel honed means less effort involved. Japanese (and other laminated blades) are essentially the equivalent of hollow grinding. They either use a soft steel or iron backing layer, which wear more easily than the tool steel cutting layer. So, in theory, 1000-8000 jump is possible. Most, however, choose to reduce the size of the gap for increased efficiency.

Regards from Perth

Derek

p.s. I would rather answer emails of this type here (happily so) than to my website, which I do not monitor in this way.

[Jim Koepke]

Most, however, choose to reduce the size of the gap for increased efficiency.

Part of the efficiency is how much work is needed to remove scratches left by the previous stone.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Part of the efficiency is how much work is needed to remove scratches left by the previous stone.

jtk

Exactly, Jim! Thanks for the clarification. That's what multi-media sharpening is all about - how easily it is to remove the mess from the previous stone and replace it with new mess

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Theo Hall]

Hello folks,

Thanks very much to each of you for responding with your advice. It is greatly appreciated.

I recently read an article from an old issue of Fine Woodworking, where the author said that it was a good idea to check that the part of the shaft which meets the bottom of the ura, was in plane with the ura.

And if this top part of the shaft was proud and not in plane with the ura, to file that part of the shaft flat.
I wonder if many of you have done this, or whether it could in any way weaken the chisel at all.
Note: I would understand the absolute necessity of doing this were the length of the Ura shorter than the width of the stone the backs were being honed on, but alas, this is not the case with these paring chisels.

Finally, the handles seem to have some sort of shiny lacquer on. Do many of you guys strip this and re-oil the handles?

Thank you
Theo

[Curt Putnam]

Believing is not the same as hard proof In fact, a Japanese gentleman who is a retired temple carpenter once explained to me that when the bevel and ura are polished too much it can actually increase friction.

But to keep on topic, the bevels on my usu nomis are about 28 degrees. I find this works well for both soft and hard woods. When they are really dull I start on my 400 grit diamond stone followed by the King Deluxe 1200, Naniwa Hibiki 3000 and then the Hibiki 8000. When they just need a touch up the Hibiki 3000 and 8000 are enough.

As you say, empirical evidence is best. I will continue to finish at sub-micron levels. I wonder what the general feeling is here about the finish grit level. I further wonder if that varies between Western and Japanese chisel users?

[Oskar Sedell]

My feeling about bevel angles is not so much about the numbers as about how low an angle the steel and your style/technique of working can accept. Which applies for any chisel, paring as well as bench chisels. If the edge is chipping under normal use, try raising the angle a little (few degrees, just a little with the next sharpening) and don´t waste time adjusting the full flat bevel of a jap.chisel. If the edge is strong you can try lowering the angle in small steps until you find the optimum for that chisel.

Over time and many sharpenings you will find what works for you and the particular chisel.