Aligning bandsaw table to the blade

[Alan Kalker]

Thanks Lee for the link. Michael centers the center of the blade on the center of the wheel. I’m pretty sure Alex Snodgrass demonstrates proper centering as placing the gullet of the blade on the center of the wheel. Which is correct?

[Lee Schierer]

I have seen Alex several times in person and even talked with him at length. His method works to a degree, but I still had problems with drift. Since I aligned my table, I've not had drifting problems resawing nor difficulty cutting circles with my circle jig. I use my bandsaw more now than ever before.

I center the blade on the upper wheel.

[Edward Weber]

Of course there is some play in the assembly for rough alignment.
I'm trying to follow the thinking here.
Put a blade on the saw and center it, then align the table to it?
If that's the case fine, let's say I do that when I first setup my saw, The problem is, is that every blade is different and doesn't care that you aligned your table to the first blade. There is no guarantee when you change blades that every one will track where the first one did.
The tracking adjustment is there for a reason, to adjust the blade position to cut parallel to the miter slot/fence, not to keep the blade directly centered on the upper wheel.

My point is once the saw is set up (ballpark aligned) the fine adjustment is done by the tracking adjustment. Your not going to re-align the table every time you change a blade are you? I know some people adjust their fence each time they change blades, which is much the same thinking.

I don't understand aligning something that is fixed (table or fence) to something that is moveable (blade)

[Edwin Santos]

Of course there is some play in the assembly for rough alignment.
I'm trying to follow the thinking here.
Put a blade on the saw and center it, then align the table to it?
If that's the case fine, let's say I do that when I first setup my saw, The problem is, is that every blade is different and doesn't care that you aligned your table to the first blade. There is no guarantee when you change blades that every one will track where the first one did.
The tracking adjustment is there for a reason, to adjust the blade position to cut parallel to the miter slot/fence, not to keep the blade directly centered on the upper wheel.

My point is once the saw is set up (ballpark aligned) the fine adjustment is done by the tracking adjustment. Your not going to re-align the table every time you change a blade are you? I know some people adjust their fence each time they change blades, which is much the same thinking.

I don't understand aligning something that is fixed (table or fence) to something that is moveable (blade)

The thinking is basically the same as the conventional method of tuning a table saw. The arbor is fixed, so loosen the bolts and adjust the table so the miter slot is absolutely parallel to the blade. Then adjust the fence so it is parallel to the miter slot. When you change blades, the blade plate will be in the same plane even if the blades themselves have different tooth profiles.

So taking this procedure to the bandsaw, if you are tracking every blade in the center of the wheel (top of crown), then the band body is in the same plane. So when you adjust the table miter slot to this plane, and adjust your fence to the miter slot, there should be no drift, and your results should be consistent from blade to blade. At least that's been my experience. The tracking function is only to get your band centered on the wheel. I might add, that after discovering this tuning approach, my tracking adjustments are minimal, oftentimes none.
Anyway, that's the thinking in answer to your question. I accept that there are other approaches, and I'm not trying to talk you out of whatever method works for you.

The only time I can remember having problems is when the blade had a bad weld and was not running true.

[Edward Weber]

The thinking is basically the same as the conventional method of tuning a table saw. The arbor is fixed, so loosen the bolts and adjust the table so the miter slot is absolutely parallel to the blade. Then adjust the fence so it is parallel to the miter slot. When you change blades, the blade plate will be in the same plane even if the blades themselves have different tooth profiles.

So taking this procedure to the bandsaw, if you are tracking every blade in the center of the wheel (top of crown), then the band body is in the same plane. So when you adjust the table miter slot to this plane, and adjust your fence to the miter slot, there should be no drift, and your results should be consistent from blade to blade. At least that's been my experience. The tracking function is only to get your band centered on the wheel. I might add, that after discovering this tuning approach, my tracking adjustments are minimal, oftentimes none.
Anyway, that's the thinking in answer to your question. I accept that there are other approaches, and I'm not trying to talk you out of whatever method works for you.

The only time I can remember having problems is when the blade had a bad weld and was not running true.

Here's where I slightly differ with this method.
On a tablesaw, mounting a blade (fixed) and adjusting the table to it, makes sense.
On a bandsaw however, the blade is not fixed, yes it's mounted but it is not fixed. By it's very design, the tracking is meant to align the blade for proper cutting. How are you gauging "putting the blade in the middle?

which brings me to tracking every blade to the center.
People are obsessed with the center of the upper wheel, why?
Put the blade in the center. no put the gullet in the center, no turn around three times and, you get the point. Not to mention where most people look at "center", at the 3:00 position is not where it matters. This is where the blade is leaving the wheel. If you really want to see where the blade is riding, you need to look at the 12:00 position
The top wheel is crowned and tilts, therefore no matter where the band is riding, it's being driven in exactly the same way as if it were in the dead center. In the earlier post I showed the diagram of how/why you would adjust the tracking, this is not opinion, this is geometry and physics.
When you replace a belt on a belt sander, do they all just track perfectly or do you need to adjust the tracking?
I agree that once your saw is in "general alignment", (it seems we all get there differently) mounting and tracking a blade into alignment should be a short process.
When I originally set up my saws, I mount the table and square the miter slot with the lower wheel, which is a fixed plane to reference from. Then align the fence parallel to the miter slot. I have never had to or would change these. Each blade over the years get mounted into the general position (roughly centered) and aligned by tracking and making test cuts. this takes very little time for me. When everything is set, I could not possibly care less if the blade is not perfectly centered in the upper wheel so long as the resulting cut quality is straight, every blade is different and may ride in a slightly different area of the wheel.
I should note that when I say use the tracking adjustment, I'm usually am talking about small adjustments, 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time. Once you're in the ballpark you should not need to make drastic adjustments unless you've changed something else.
We will all have to agree to disagree sometimes, be safe, cut sraight

[Edwin Santos]

Here's where I slightly differ with this method.

We will all have to agree to disagree sometimes, be safe, cut sraight

Total agreement with that last part.
I'd say you love your Porsche, and I love my Ferrari.

[Rod Sheridan]

The thinking is basically the same as the conventional method of tuning a table saw. The arbor is fixed, so loosen the bolts and adjust the table so the miter slot is absolutely parallel to the blade. Then adjust the fence so it is parallel to the miter slot. When you change blades, the blade plate will be in the same plane even if the blades themselves have different tooth profiles.

So taking this procedure to the bandsaw, if you are tracking every blade in the center of the wheel (top of crown), then the band body is in the same plane. So when you adjust the table miter slot to this plane, and adjust your fence to the miter slot, there should be no drift, and your results should be consistent from blade to blade. At least that's been my experience. The tracking function is only to get your band centered on the wheel. I might add, that after discovering this tuning approach, my tracking adjustments are minimal, oftentimes none.
Anyway, that's the thinking in answer to your question. I accept that there are other approaches, and I'm not trying to talk you out of whatever method works for you.

The only time I can remember having problems is when the blade had a bad weld and was not running true.

Yes, exactly how I set them up.

Regards, Rod

[Edward Weber]

I will simply post a quote from Micheal Fortune, who many of you have cited as an authority on this subject. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018...-bandsaw-drift
"
When I bought my bandsaw in 1974, I set the fence parallel to the miter-gauge slot in the table, and I haven’t had to adjust it since. The reason is that I use the tracking adjustment on the upper bandsaw wheel to align the blade. A nightmare of fence adjustments ensues if each new blade is allowed to track differently.
Simply by keeping the centerline of the blade (regardless of width) in line with the centerline of the upper wheel, I am able to keep the blade aligned correctly at the blade guides.
The relationship between tracking the blade on the centerline of the upper wheel and having the fence aligned parallel to the miter slot should produce a kerf with equal space on either side of the blade.
Much has been made in books and articles of the alignment of the two wheels to each other. In my shop and in my travels to schools around North America, I have never found this to be a problem. Tracking the blade properly on the upper wheel has always been enough, except in the case of a severely damaged bandsaw. "

In a nut shell. Yes put the blade in the center and adjust the tracking until you achieve a straight parallel cut.
He does not go into what he means by "center"
Personally I roughly center the band, the flat potion of the blade. This is the part of the blade designed to make contact with the tire, drive the blade and adjust direction via the tracking mechanism. The teeth and/or the gullet should not come in contact (as little as possible) with the tire.

[Jim Becker]

I'm curious about what Michael would advice for folks who have bandsaws that feature flat (not crowned) tires where we run the teeth just off the edge of the wheel for tracking...