Thank you. Should be interesting. The White Oak sure works differently than hard Maple but it smells really nice and sands down to a very elegant grain pattern. Beginning with turning the legs for the first two chairs.
Thank you. Should be interesting. The White Oak sure works differently than hard Maple but it smells really nice and sands down to a very elegant grain pattern. Beginning with turning the legs for the first two chairs.
Beautiful work Scott.great look
coopered back rest re-assembly with dominos.jpgarm zig zag finger joint on table saw.jpg20 inch diameter coopered backrest from 8-4 stock.jpgremoving waste with bandsaw before right anlge grinding and microplane - shaping tools next.jpgtable saw 15 degree - 2 inch hi slanted finger joint.jpgarm joint coming into focus.jpgepoxy system 3 T88 colored to match with glass microbeads and a pinch of gold ingot yellow.jpgremoving waste with bandsaw before right anlge grinding and microplane - shaping tools next.jpg
Thanks for the pics. How did you clamp the finger joints together?
There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry
Excellent question I've been struggling with. After experiencing the joint glue up for the second time (most current pics) I realized some kind of "clamping" is needed. After staring at it for quite a while, chair 3 will use the new clamping system. Each side of the joint has a lot of waste to be sawed away and this is what I'll take advantage of. A small block with a hole drilled in it slightly larger than the outer diameter 1-1/2" or so drywall screw. The block will be cyanoacrylate glued to the arm side of the joint. An inner diameter hole will be be drilled into the back rest side. Same arrangement on top and bottom. Then tighten the top and bottom screws but just so - as to not squeeze out the system 3 T88 epoxy and "glue starve" the joint.
This was version 1 in my mind. Version 2 which I'll use and show pics of, will replace the block on the arm side with an "L bracket" attached to arm, prob using small brad sized screws. the L bracket will have a horizontal slot instead of a hole. This will allow the arm to move laterally while the joint finds its place.
I'll show pics when it comes together!
Thank you for the question!
Scott Oxenhandler
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A method for clamping a nonlinear slanted joint - using aluminum L brackets with a slot taking a drywall screw into the back rest. The arm side of the L bracket is screwed down using radio-control cowling screws. There is an L bracket clamp on the upper and lower surface of each joint. Equal force is applied on the upper and lower fingers along the tangent line of the joint on the circle - and in the midline of the joint.
There's a crossbar spacer between the armrests that keep each arm in proper position to accept front legs - while the finger joint is allowed to seat itself as the drywall screw slides to it's sweet spot on the slot in the bracket.
Careful not to tighten the drywall screws too much as this would "glue starve" the joint.
Lesson learned... don't cut away waste til done using it...
Just remember, a man cannot have too many...screws
"You can observe a lot just by watching."
--Yogi Berra
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Maloof Style Rocker recently completed. This is my third rocker. Curly maple with full thickness walnut embedded in middle of seat using "complimentary curves" technique.
First rocker: Studied Charles Brock - taught me a lot.
Second rocker: Studied Hal Taylor - taught me a lot.
Third rocker: Studied Sam Maloof - wow.
Third rocker is my design combining all the above. All interlocking joinery. No butt joints/screws/plugs.
>Rocker sleds blind doweled to leg bottoms.
>Front legs to front of armrests - reversed Maloof joint. Then below that, regular Maloof joint front leg to seat.
>Back legs to back of armrest - single through dovetail joint. Back of arm is pin, back leg has tail.
>Headrest to back legs - sliding dovetail
Used Hal Taylor's method for flexible backbraces. These have variable flexibility along the length because of tapering wedges laminated into the top and bottom of the brace, with quartersawn strip of ash in middle lamination position. Very comfortable.
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Here's the top of the sliding dovetail for headrest joinery into back legs, instead of butt joint with screws and plugs.
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And here is my own new design. This chair just completed. A fusion of Sam Maloof and Hans Wegner. More pics to follow.
Nice work. That center strip is really wonderful. It might have been put there by Georgia O'Keefe...if you get my monologue.
Thank you. That's a technique know as "complimentary curves". It's done with a router and thorough understanding that all points on the curves need to be the same radius. It's different than marquetry in that the embedded piece is full thickness. This allowed me to carve it out along with the rest of the seat - mostly the pommel section - giving it a real 3 dimensional appearance. The basics of the technique are outlined on this youtube video by Stumpy Nubs: "https://youtu.be/fZmlMmdCTYA". I'll admit I had to watch it many times before reaching full understanding so I could apply it to my situation...
Regards,
Scott Oxenhandler
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My mash-up design combining Hans Wegner's "The Chair" and Maloof style dining chairs.
Scott,
Absolute homerun! The chairs check all the boxes; design (aesthetics & function), material selection, construction, and finish. Actually, they excel in all categories.
Additionally, your post is filled with viable information and clarity. Truly one of the best posts ever.
Mahalo sir and kudos.