Smoothers smaller than no 4

[Jason Buresh]

So far I have amassed a fleet of hand planes in sizes 4-8, plus a few blocks planes.I have not seen any planes locally in size 3, 2, and I won't even try to find a 1. How often do you guys reach for a 3? Or even a no 2 for those that have them? Do you use them more than a 4?I don't really feel at a disadvantage with a 4, so I am assuming that's why they were so popular.I have been thinking about picking up a wood river no 1 for my wife. She doesn't have much motor function of her right hand due to a stroke she suffered at birth. She has been showing more interest in spending shop time with me, and so far the easiest plane for her to use is my block plane, because she can grip it with one hand, but it also isn't the most comfortable to use on faces of boards. I figured the no 1 would be perfect for her because of her smaller hands it's small enough to be gripped with one hand, and the tote would keep her hand from slipping as she planes.

[Jerome Andrieux]

She doesn't have much motor function of her right hand due to a stroke she suffered at birth. She has been showing more interest in spending shop time with me, and so far the easiest plane for her to use is my block plane, I because she can grip it with one hand, but it also isn't the most comfortable to use on faces of boards. I figured the no 1 would be perfect for her because of her smaller hands it's small enough to be gripped with one hand, and the tote would keep her hand from slipping as she planes.

I find pulling easier than pushing with one hand for a small planes.
A big #7 actually handles itself.

Smoothing will be difficult anyhow but I would buy or build a Japanese smoother. A hock krenov style blade makes that an easy project.

[Shannon Brantley]

I've got a #3 and #2. I think it depends on the size of the projects you do as to if you use them. I love both of the smaller ones. The #3 was my first smoother so I got used to it early on. Lately I reach for whichever is sharpest, to be honest. Luckily I've been too busy to sharpen. The #2 is like a handled block plane to me. Got a great deal on it from a Creeker years ago or I probably wouldn't have one now. I don't think the going price for them is worth it, honestly. But I do enjoy using it.

[Doug Weiner]

I wonder if a Japanese plane would be a good alternative.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I don’t have a #2, but do have a #3 and use it for smaller projects. My #4 gets a lot more use though. The only time I handled or have even seen a #1 was at a Lie Nielsen hand tool event. Struck me as being more a toy or display (i.e., collectible) piece than a functional tool. A #2 sounds good for your wife, but a #3 for considerably less money would probably work.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a Wood River #1 and I like it. But I recently saw that LV now sells a #1 that might be easier for your wife. LINK. Might be worth a look, especially since LV will let you return it if it doesnt work for her. It looks to be within a quarter inch of the same length as the WR.

I also have a #2 and a #3 that I use regularly on smaller projects.

Good luck!
Fred

[Thomas Wilson]

I have Lie-Nielsen 1, 2, and 3. I bought them, as I persuaded Janicewhokeepsmehumble, for the grandkids to use in the shop. As it turns out, they want to use the big planes. The goal is long wide shavings like Granddaddy’s. I help a bit and it happens as they wish.

[Jim Koepke]

A #1 is great for small work. It is impossible to get one's hand around the tote.

Here is my grip on an LN #1:

Holding the #1.jpg

The Veritas version may be easier to get more than one finger around the tote.

My #1 actually gets used more often than my #2. Two of my fingers can get around the tote on the #2.

The #1 & #2 are easier to use at times if used/held like a coffin plane

My #3 is often used more than my #4. It all depends on the size of the work being done.

Just for fun, one of my future projects may be to build a special shooting board for a #1 to shave a few thousandths off the edges of a deck of cards. This would be to make what is often referred to as a 'stripped deck.' One end of the deck is 2-3 thousandths narrower than the other end. This type of deck can be used for many card tricks.

One deck like this was made freehand and taken to work one day. While on break the deck was being shuffled when a co-worker came in. While talking he asked me why I didn't play cards with him and the other guys. Without stopping my shuffling I told him, "you don't want to play cards with me." When he asked why, my hand went down the side of the deck and pulled out and fanned the four Aces that had been set earlier. You could hear his jaw hit the floor and the look on his face was priceless. No one ever asked me to sit in on their card games after that.

jtk

[Curt Putnam]

FWIW, I tend to like the smallest plane that I think will do the job. I have a pair of # 3 sized planes and love them both. I'll even grab a block plane if I think I can get away with using it. Love block planes.

[Scott Winners]

My smallest is a #3 and I have all the half sizes from there going up except for a #7. I hardly ever reach for the 3 on office furniture sized items; but I do use it occasionally, mine will be at my estate sale. It might be more handier on smaller projects for sure.

I am intriugued by the idea of a pull/ Japanese type plane possbily being a better fit with your wife's abilities. There are a ton of videos on youtube to see together before you spend money.

Opposite Curt, I tend to reach for the largest plane that can do the job. Love my #8 and #6.

[Hunter Benson]

I have a no. 2 and find it almost impossible to hold comfortably. But maybe I am doing it wrong. I know the LV bevel up no. 1 has a larger handle and is supposed to be easier to use than a bevel down no. 1.

[steven c newman]

I have and use a bunch of block planes ( have a 9-1/2 on the bench right now) I have and use both the No. 3 and No. 3c ( no difference) and the No. 4 and No. 4c........for small jobs that still require a Jack plane...out come either the Stanley No. 5-1/4, or, the Millers Falls No. 11.....same width as a #3 plane, but at 11" long.

Current Project is seeing a LOT of Millers Falls No. 15 and No. 9 planes....they were simply the ones in the "rotation" I have in the shop....trying to remember whether Sargent's turn is next, or Stanley....current block plane on "duty" is a Stanley 9-1/2....since it has taken up residence in the bench's tool well....

Largest jointer in USE right now, for me? Stanley No. 6, Type 9.....Had some glue joint to joint before the glue arrived. Seem to like it better than the No. 7s and No. 8 I have on hand.
To flatten those panels after the clamps came off? Millers Falls No. 15 ( same as a Stanley #5-1/2) although, the No. 6 was on "stand-by"
Planes, today, plane til.JPG
No. 7s at the bottom shelf, then the No. 6s...followed by Jacks and Smoothers....with a few block planes where space allowed....

YMMV

[Elise Anna Boer]

I have a very old Record number 3 and I use it a lot. I find it especially useful to smooth small sections of large boards.

[Dennis Droege]

All my working life, I've had the old Stanley planes my grandfather used, a 3 and a 4. I've used them since I was a little kid. I've got his #6 as well. I'm sort of with the guy who says he reaches for the sharp plane.
A year or so ago, primarily because it seemed to be the only one immediately available, I bought a Veritas #1. Didn't think I'd use it much. Turns out I carry it in my apron pocket--and reach for it much more than I could have predicted.

[Derek Cohen]

Jason, give serious consideration to a Veritas Small BU smoother. It is light … feels a lot lighter than a LN #3. Plus the low centre of effort reduces the force needed to push it.



Regards from Perth

Derek