Dan - What blades would you recommend for the Jet bandsaw? Thanks, David
[OP]
Member
Dan - What blades would you recommend for the Jet bandsaw? Thanks, David
Member
Hi Dave,
Just replied to your PM. Sorry I missed the earlier ones.
Also +1 on Robo’s recommendation of air scrubbers. They are cheap easy to hang and set up and they catch the fine airborn dust that the dust collector misses.
Member
For cutting bowl blanks on the bandsaw, what I've found works well for me on my laguna 18 BX is a circle cutting jig and the 1/2" Lenox Diemaster 2 bimetal blade.
My circle cutting jig uses the miter slot for locating the center in line with the teeth of the blade, and a 1/4" dowel peg in a sliding groove that matches a 1/4" hole I drill into the blank where I want the center to be. It works quite well, and saves me a ton of time on the lathe.
Contributor
Look at the laguna 14bx. It’s 2hp. Cut 12” high and the ceramic guides really simplify tuning the saws. I’ll never go back to a saw with bearing saw guides.
Contributor
I have the black anv 17 inch one and it has been a good saw ONCE you get it setup correctly.
Member
No issues rounding bowl blanks w/ the ceramic guides? I've heard mixed reviews on this. I really like the Laguna bandsaws except some have told me of big problems for the main things I want to do and that's breaking down green wood for bowl blanks...Originally Posted by Jeff B Bennett
Contributor
I was 100% Euro (bushing) Guides back in the day but after using ceramics for a while, I likewise prefer them for roughing out green wood. Cleanup is a million times easier and no rust issues. Timberwolf blades seem to get mixed reviews but I had nothing but good luck with them in my bandsaw days. 1/2" was perfect for just about anything on a medium-sized European bandsaw.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
Moderator
On various bandsaws I've used bearing guides, steel guides, ceramic guides, "cool block" guides, and guides I've made myself from lignum vitae. All have their place. I liked the ceramic guides, were a bit precise than bearings since I brought them closer to the blade. Unlike wood and composite (cool block) guides, you must take care the blade does not move on the tires enough to run the teeth into the ceramic. The bandsaws I use now have rotating bearing guides.
Member
I would suggest a bi metal lenox blade, as they last much longer and can be resharpened several times with a cheap diamond grinding sleeve on a dremel. Those so called "turners blades" seem to go dull after only a few blanks are processed.
Where did I put those band aids?
Contributor
+1 on the Lenox bi-metal blades. I have a 50 year old Powermatic bandsaw that still cuts just fine. I had to take it apart to move it recently and after I put it back together it cut much better. I think one of the setup steps fixed a problem I didn't know I had. SO, good blade, proper set-up, and 2HP gives a good cut.
Interesting vendor segment during the AAW virtual symposium on bandsaw setup. He set the guides, blade tracking , and tension wrong and still got a good cut. His point was that a rip fence will cause cutting problems so use his sled. My current blade drifts but still cuts well so I make most cut free hand, especially turning blanks.
Jim
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