ECE Try Square Accuracy

[Paul Carson]

Hello,

I've only got round to putting an ECE 350mm Try Square which I bought 8 months ago into proper service and now realise it is out of square approx 0.5mm across it's length. They're listed as being accurate to +- 0.1 mm over the length of the blade.

Should I try and return it, if possible, or just file it down?

Thanks

[Jim Koepke]

After 8 months many retailers would be reluctant to allow a return.

You may try contacting the people where you purchased it.

All but a few of my try squares have been purchased used. My tendency is to put them right myself.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Jim, I would file square my self. You can make fine adjustments with a pad sander.

[John Keeton]

On the other hand most manufacturers of quality tools want to be informed about control issues, even if you correct it yourself. https://ecemmerich.de/en/start/

[Juergen Mueller]

Don't file. The join/conjunction between the blade and the handle is just friction. Knock it gently on a piece of wood.

[Thomas Wilson]

Don't file. The join/conjunction between the blade and the handle is just friction. Knock it gently on a piece of wood.

Years ago, I bought a Crowne square with brass bound, “rosewood” head and blued steel blade. It arrived significantly out of square. It was pretty so I used for decoration on the shop tool wall. I heard the advice that Juergen offered from somewhere and thought what the heck and whacked it. It was a little better. Gave it a couple more. It took 3 or 4 sound whacks but it became square and has stayed that way. I was surprised that the head did not just become loose.

[Paul Carson]

Among my first woodworking tools were Marples rosewood and blued steel blade squares like the Crowne ones you describe Thomas. Years later I discovered, with despair and disbelief, that each one was badly out of square. The amount of my time wasted correcting mistakes which I thought were my technique but were actually caused by these dodgy tools does not bring a smile to my face. Not having a teacher and not yet using forums very much, I never began to suppose that such simple core tools - single fixed angles - would only be close to that angle - as close as you could get without using the thing at all!

Now I have 2 engineers squares to make perfectly square test pieces & check squares against. (I hope they're true!)

Juergen your suggestion is very interesting and perhaps explains why the problem seems to be so widespread. I'll give it a gentle tap!

[Jim Koepke]

Among my first woodworking tools were Marples rosewood and blued steel blade squares like the Crowne ones you describe Thomas. Years later I discovered, with despair and disbelief, that each one was badly out of square. The amount of my time wasted correcting mistakes which I thought were my technique but were actually caused by these dodgy tools does not bring a smile to my face. Not having a teacher and not yet using forums very much, I never began to suppose that such simple core tools - single fixed angles - would only be close to that angle - as close as you could get without using the thing at all!

Now I have 2 engineers squares to make perfectly square test pieces & check squares against. (I hope they're true!)

Juergen your suggestion is very interesting and perhaps explains why the problem seems to be so widespread. I'll give it a gentle tap!

The tapping and whacking did not work for me. That is my reason for using a file. Some squares have pins through the blade that do not allow movement of the blade.

All of my squares are checked for square when they are acquired and occasionally throughout their time in the shop. It is an easy procedure to set the square against an edge of a straight piece of wood and carefully scribe a line along the blade. Without moving the square flip the stock over and scribe another line next to the first. These should be perfectly parallel. Any variation from parallel is twice the amount of the blade being out of square. Remember to check both sides of the blade. Some of mine have had one good side and one slightly out side.

An optical comparator or inspection loop is a helpful device:

Optical Comparator:Inspection Loop.jpg

Mine is an older less expensive version with a single, non-changeable scale with markings down to 0.002".

An old trick explained to me during my time as a printer was to use the same tape measure or ruler throughout a job. Especially 50 years ago not all tape measures were the same. For me the same rule applies to a square. Use the same one throughout the project and hopefully any error in the tool will cancel itself out.

Of course checking and correcting a square before starting a project may be the better path for one's journey through joinery.

jtk