minimax bandsaw hinge replacement

[Kevin Jenness]

The hinge setup on the MM16 requires that the doors pivot 180 degrees to put on a wide blade. Is there a readily available replacement that would locate the pivot point back on the frame to allow clearance at 90 degrees?

[Jim Becker]

I know of what you speak! I'm not sure that "readily available" is going to apply here, however. A solution may require some creativity. I am, however, interested in what ideas folks come up with because I'd seriously consider doing this same modification.

[Mick Simon]

That irks me every time I have to change the blade. Setting the hinges back ½" and making the door ½" wider seems like the simplest no brainer design mod they could make.

Welding or simply screwing a filler strip on the hinge side of the door, then remounting and relocating the hinges seems like it would work.

[Kevin Jenness]

"Welding or simply screwing a filler strip on the hinge side of the door, then remounting and relocating the hinges seems like it would work."

I guess so, but I'd have to pad out the hinge on the frame side as well, and I'm no welder.

An undrilled surface mount tee hinge would work, but the ones I have looked at have pre-drilled holes in the wrong place on the door leaf. I would like a ready made solution that doesn't look cobbed together.

[Jim Becker]

It occurs to me that proximity to a wall is also a factor here and was something that tended to get "in the way" with my machine placement at the old shop. It will be interesting to see if there's a difference here in my "temporary" shop once I get the machine moved. As to the hinges, I'm wondering if a deeper hinge (they would stick out farther when the doors are closed) might give more clearance. I will have to ponder that a little more when I'm physically near the tool...it's still at the other property, but I'll likely be "visiting" in the next few days.

[John Lanciani]

Knock the hinge pins out (from bottom to top of hinge) and then only put them back in as far as they'll go with finger pressure. Pull the pins and remove the doors to replace the blade. (this is just one of the reasons I never fell in love with my MM20 and found it a new home...)

[Mark e Kessler]

I believe "Elesa" makes the Hinge that is on the saw, JW Winco sells them but i'd got to the Elesa site first start there to see if there is an offset or double barrel that would fit in the same hole pattern I know they also make leaf type as well. also maybe look for a weldable hinge as they have no holes, Musumi has some leaf type without holes in any case I would think you will need to drill holes but would imagine the original ones would be covered by the existing holes so it won't look like a hack job.

[Brian Holcombe]

Definitely ordering a Hema next time.

[Kevin Jenness]

I relocated the hinges on my doors using wood blocks to set the pivot point 1 3/8" to the left. I drilled and tapped for 8-32 machine screws into the frame and used wood screws through the doors as they are of thinner material. The 3/4" standoff on the door pushes the inside of the door back toward the table when open, but there is about 2 1/2" clearance from the door's back edge to the frame at 90 degrees and when rotated back another 20 degrees or so I have clear access to the blade slot in the frame. I would suggest anyone trying this draw it out in plan view (as I did not) to prevent any surprises.DSC_0669[1].jpgDSC_0670[1].jpgDSC_0671[1].jpg

[Jim Becker]

THAT...is a great idea. Thanks for that, Kevin!

[Erik Loza]

I relocated the hinges on my doors using wood blocks to set the pivot point 1 3/8" to the left.

Genius!

Erik