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Thread: Glue on Kbody Clamps

  1. #1
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    Glue on Kbody Clamps

    What is a good way to get glue off of kbody clamps? Grinder with flap disc? Lacquer Thinner? other ideas?
    "If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door!"

  2. #2
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    Mar 2013
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    I use one of my beater chisels to pop/pry it off.
    Chuck Taylor

  3. #3
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    If time isn't a problem, wrap the glue in rags soaked in vinegar. Keep it wet and it will soften the glue and you can peel it off.

  4. #4
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    Vinegar will attack the clamp metal.

  5. #5
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    I have used a heat gun to pop off the bigger drips, and I have also used a wire wheel on a drill to clean and polish the clamp bars. Once you get them clean, wax the hell out of them, it will save most of the drips from sticking. Also, take the time to either use clear packing tape or painter's masking tape on the bar before each use, you can peel the dried glue right off with the tape.
    Jon Endres
    Killing Trees Since 1983

  6. #6
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    What kind of glue? Titebond/Elmers/pva is one thing. Gorilla Glue polyurethane is another. Epoxy is yet another.

  7. #7
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    Acetone can help with this task to soften the glue so you can more easily scrape it off. It's a "little" safer to use than lacquer thinner, although good ventilation is still required.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    *** CAUTION *** do not believe ANY of these distracting wives tales. There is NO CURE. Package your clamps carefully and send them to me. My address is . . .

    Similar to Charles but, I use a scratch awl so I can pop the glue off and scrape the stubborn stuff out of the little grooves. Obviously you have now learned to take a moment to apply a bit of tape here and there. It takes much less time than cleaning up afterwards.
    I always forget . . . Is it the letter "S" or the letter "C" that is silent in the word scent?
    - Glenn (the second "N" is silent) Bradley

  9. #9
    Safest way I've found to pull PVA's off assembly tables etc., is the citrus based cleaners, like Resolution or Mean Green. Doesn't take long for the dried on stuff to begin softening/getting rubbery. Won't eat your metal, your hands or your respiratory system. If there's that much glue, you'll probably realize smoother clamp operation by filing all the metal plate digs along top edge of bar back down a bit.
    That roughness contributes to glue's tenacity in sticking, so it should help keep you running longer between cleanings. Tried wax, but based on previous statement, it's not a slam dunk. Tape certainly sounds like a good idea for prevention, albeit a bit fussy.

    jeff

  10. #10
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    Oct 2008
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    As mentioned, prevention is the cure. Even just a sheet or 2 of newspaper will keep the glue off. Simple and free. If you done with the newspaper. Does anyone buy newspapers anymore?
    To get the glue off I've used teh pry off methods mentioned. Also a cabinet card scraper works and what works really well is a box cutter razor blade. That and WD-40 or your favorite spray lube works to also get surface rust stains off, that come from the glue.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    Alaska
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    Thanks all. I will try a combination of these and see. These are some of my older clamps that I wasnt thinking right and now I try and prevent glue issues during glue ups.
    "If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door!"

  12. #12
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    Always need more clamps!
    "If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door!"

  13. #13
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    My go to for painting spray masking is aluminum foil. easier to apply and stay in place then most anything else. I would apply paste wax after they get cleaned up. Not to the locking bar portion.
    Bill D

  14. #14
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    Nov 2009
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    Alaska
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    A right angle grinder with a wire wheel...... Try to be gentle.

  15. #15
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    Apr 2018
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    Cambridge Vermont
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    I just use a utility knife to break it free.

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