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Thread: I can't sharpen my block plane

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott lipscomb View Post

    Then I started looked at my cuticles, and grossed myself out.

    .
    That’s funny. Now I have to try that. Especially after a sharpening session.
    Last edited by Meryl Logue; 06-12-2021 at 1:38 PM.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Booher View Post
    All, I realize the stone itself may be bad. Do folks recommend a good system (scarysharp?) or specific ceramic stones?
    I bought the Razorri stones out of curiosity, hoping to find a cheap solution I could recommend to casual users. (In short, don't bother Jim.)

    While I will only recommend them with many caveats, I certainly wouldn't call them bad. They seem more or less true to their grit ratings, (though comments & reviews suggest there was a batch that was mislabeled. The one that feels finest is the finest one no matter what the inked number claims.) A short soak, just until the bubbles stop, and they will work fine.

    Why the caveats? They are small, roughly 2" x 7", instead of the more common size around 3" x 8". This means they will have more problems using jigs and freehand sharpeners will have less area to play with. The kit is billed as everything you need, but doesn't really have a good flattening solution and includes things not really appropriate for knifes or woodworking tools (e.g. a bad razor strop.) And, for lack of a better word, they feel "yucky" in use. This isn't really a limit on achieving sharp, but just an impression after comparing them to other stones. I guess it's sort of a scratchy feeling, not really a rough and cutting fast feeling on the coarse stone or a buttery smooth and polishing up the bevel on the finer stones. Basically they leave me with a hint of a tingle up my spine.

    But for all the caveats, they will get tools sharp. I suspect the problem is (mostly) caused by a mismatch between the stones small size, and possibly flatness and squareness, and the chosen jig. It seems like, to use that jig, a piece of float glass or flat (check!) tile, or even MDF (though it will warp & crumble if it gets wet), with some sand paper will make a good cheap experiment. (Warning sandpaper is less up front expense, but it doesn't last as long and starts to add up over long term use.) Ultimately a freehand or a different jig for use with stones or some constant thickness diamond plates for that jig seems most likely to satisfy.

    ETA: oh, they weren't flat as shipped which aggravates the lack of a good flattening solution. A freehand sharpener probably could have used them as is and compensated, but with a jig...? I used the diamond flattening plate I already had to true them up before doing any sharpening, so never really tried their as shipped state.
    Last edited by David Bassett; 06-12-2021 at 1:48 PM. Reason: Add thought.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Booher View Post
    All, I realize the stone itself may be bad. Do folks recommend a good system (scarysharp?) or specific ceramic stones?
    That's how I started out (scarysharp), and it worked well. First it was wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of glass, followed by 3M abrasive film on glass that had been mounted on MDF (see below). It was a perfectly serviceable method, although it was a bit slow and the film needed to be replaced frequently. I started with a copy of an Eclipse honing guide. Holding the blade securely at a fixed angle is critical.



    I've since graduated to a simplified system using a diamond plate for my primary bevel and ceramic waterstones for everything else (below). It is very fast and results in a great edge. A horsehide strop provides a final step. The Eclipse guide was replaced by a Veritas MKII setup which worked well but was fussy and a bit complicated. I've come full circle and am now using a LN Honing guide. It's a much improved variation of the Eclipse design.



    I've found that if your stone is flat and your iron is presented at a consistent angle, pretty much anything will work. With me it came down to speed and maintenance.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  4. #19
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    This one was doing end grain Ash, this morning..
    Top & Bottom, edger tools.JPG
    Among other directions..
    The slip fit, length adjuster.JPG
    Like trimming miters...
    The Stanley 9.5 block plane.JPG
    And edge grain...

    Sharpened to 2.5K on sandpapper, then a ride on the strop.....then the buffer wheel....angle is a single 25 degree bevel......tain't Rocket Science....

  5. #20
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    ...tain't Rocket Science....
    But it is something folks can only learn after a lot of practice and discipline. Not many are born with a natural ability to sharpen a blade. In fact no one has ever come my way saying they were born with the ability sharpen.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  6. #21
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    I agree that it's not rocket science, but it is a skill that requires practice. My biggest hurdle was discovering what sharp really meant. I used to think my kitchen knives were sharp. They are, but compared to my chisels and plane irons they are dull as an axe. Once I put the time in and got the back flat and a uniform bevel I began to understand. Things got much easier all around. Hence the sig line below....
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    This one was doing end grain Ash, this morning..
    Top & Bottom, edger tools.JPG
    Among other directions..
    The slip fit, length adjuster.JPG
    Like trimming miters...
    The Stanley 9.5 block plane.JPG
    And edge grain...

    Sharpened to 2.5K on sandpapper, then a ride on the strop.....then the buffer wheel....angle is a single 25 degree bevel......tain't Rocket Science....
    Steven; you'll have to excuse my ignorance, but is the final stage of sharpening on the buffing wheel tied in with the Unicorn methodology.

    regards Stewie.

  8. #23
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    Yep, it is. I also tend to keep things simple, when sharpening....as I usually need the item to get back to work. I find there is rarely any need to spend "hours, days" trying to sharpen one edge.

  9. #24
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    Everyone has different approaches. I used to use an Elipse jig and had fair luck with it. For me, a revelation came when I watched Paul Sellers sharpen by hand with a slight convex edge over only three diamond stones. I discovered that it happens naturally because doing it by hand can't be perfect. Now, every sharp edge tool is done that way. It (I) can be done from beginning to stropping in about three or four minutes as there is no tertiary edge. Grinding every fifth time or so is done on a belt sander. Hundred ways to skin a cat, this one works the fastest and best for me and gives me a sharper edge than anything I used in the past.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Dorn View Post
    Everyone has different approaches. I used to use an Elipse jig and had fair luck with it. For me, a revelation came when I watched Paul Sellers sharpen by hand with a slight convex edge over only three diamond stones. I discovered that it happens naturally because doing it by hand can't be perfect. Now, every sharp edge tool is done that way. It (I) can be done from beginning to stropping in about three or four minutes as there is no tertiary edge. Grinding every fifth time or so is done on a belt sander. Hundred ways to skin a cat, this one works the fastest and best for me and gives me a sharper edge than anything I used in the past.
    Some good points here:

    1) Works the fastest and best for you.
    2) Hundreds of ways to skin a cat.
    3) How often grinding may be needed.

    It often seems there are more ways to sharpen than there are people who sharpen their tools.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. I also use the hand sharpening demonstrated by Paul sellers. It's quick, and I've been getting much better at it. I regrind if necessary on sandpaper though.

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