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Thread: Table Saw Sleds - comparison

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Valrico, FL
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    62
    To Robert Haywood, I'm in Valrico and Saturday mornings I mentor 3 fellow woodworkers with the objective of making pieces for the FL state fair. This year 2 of them entered and both won ribbons.
    We welcome visitors and extend an invitation for you or others to visit. jsjardin@verizon.net
    John Jardin

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
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    104
    Not an answer to the original question, but I found this video for making a mini precision cross-cut sled jig for table saws:

    https://youtu.be/I2ZnOnJZ3vE

    I liked that it only had two runners and a back support.

  3. Quote Originally Posted by Earl McLain View Post
    I've spent a few years trying to decide between the Miter Express and the Miter 5000. I've used the Dubby--and it's very good. But--my Incra stuff has been absolutely top-notch.
    earl

    I just setup a brand new INcra 5000. With the lg black lock handle and the end fence clamp not fastened, there's about 1/16" play in the actual miter gauge part...the gauge and the black plate underneath it (1 and 1/2 degree adj.) all move together in this 1/16" slop. The fence will clamp down at both ends of this 1/16"...is this normal?

    Thanks!
    Chris

  4. #19
    I appreciate the knowledgeable input from everyone.
    Last edited by Vince Shriver; 06-01-2021 at 2:28 AM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Central Michigan
    Posts
    1,508
    I have a Incra Miter Express and like it....
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,925
    Years ago I bought a Woodhaven crosscut sled. It's a behemoth (3/4" MDF, and large). It weighs so much, I had a overhead hoist installed and it lives hanging from the ceiling by the hoist. No way I can lift it on and off the tablesaw anymore.

    I don't believe they make it any more. And I would definitely go for a lighter one if/when I replace it. It was nice as it had aluminum extruded fences on front and back, so there were many hold-down and stop block positions that you could use, although never close enough to the blade to hold small pieces, so I built some smaller sleds for that.

    If I build one to replace it, I'll likely take off the extruded fences and use them. I really thought they were a nice feature on a crosscut sled.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,720
    So those of you with the Dubby, as there are not positive stops for anything other than 90 degrees, when you are doing miter cuts, say 45 degrees, just aligning the fence to a line, on the Dubby, how much trial an error do you need to go through, positioning the fence, so you get a perfect fit? Or is the reference line far enough away from the fence pivot point, that the margin of error, at the cut, is extremely negligible?

    I have an Incra 1000HD that I use currently for mitered cuts, that gives me acceptable results without me having to fine adjust.

    I've come close to buying the Dubby several times, but figured I'd need to make some templates, of varying degrees, 30, 45, 22.5, etc. that I could reference off the cut edge to help set the Dubby fence accurately.

    Am I over thinking this?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    837
    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Glanton View Post
    I just setup a brand new INcra 5000. With the lg black lock handle and the end fence clamp not fastened, there's about 1/16" play in the actual miter gauge part...the gauge and the black plate underneath it (1 and 1/2 degree adj.) all move together in this 1/16" slop. The fence will clamp down at both ends of this 1/16"...is this normal?

    Thanks!
    Chris

    I don't have one, but I'd guess there are screws attaching the black plate to the main base? Maybe pull the miter gauge portion off and see if they're loose.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Shorewood, WI
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    Or is the reference line far enough away from the fence pivot point, that the margin of error, at the cut, is extremely negligible?
    That's it exactly: the distance of the scale from the pivot makes it very precise and repeatable. As long as you accurately control the length and that sides are straight, the angle you read will lead to tight fits.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Tampa Bay area
    Posts
    1,095
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    So those of you with the Dubby, as there are not positive stops for anything other than 90 degrees, when you are doing miter cuts, say 45 degrees, just aligning the fence to a line,
    Am I over thinking this?
    The only positive stop is 90 on the Dubby. I make menatal note of the position of the fence on the angle gauge line while at 90. Then use the same position on the line when setting the fence at another angle. I also use an Incra Miter 1000 HD. The Incra is more precise for setting an angle, eliminates the human eye error. My Incra is just a miter gauge though while the Dubby is a sled. For my hobby and craft stuff the Dubby gets more use.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    as there are not positive stops
    That's exactly the reason I didn't buy the Dubby and bought the Miter express

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hinden View Post
    Not an answer to the original question, but I found this video for making a mini precision cross-cut sled jig for table saws:

    https://youtu.be/I2ZnOnJZ3vE

    I liked that it only had two runners and a back support.
    I disagree with how he splits fence and then glues two halves on. When making fence, I route out for screw and adjustment block, glue face and back together, then cut groove for screw. Only one set of gluing and alignment to do.Instead of screw and block, I use a toilet bolt, or a bole with a square nut in groove.
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 06-03-2021 at 2:59 AM.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    950
    I own an Incra HD 1000 miter gauge/sled combo. I couldn't ask for anything more accurate and precise. However, depending on what it is you do in your shop, you could just as easily and for much less money, build your own. There are numerous YouTube videos and plans on the internet, including a number of them on Fine Woodworking's site (if you have access). Most of them will result in a sled which is accurate precise, and flexible in use, if the build is executed properly. It might be worth at least one attempt at building your own before buying a ready made one. If you have decided to buy, though, I'd say that my vote is for one of the Incra miter gauge/sled combos. Depending on your needs and wants, you might be satisfiedi with one of the lower priced Incra combos.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    22
    Check out the Incra 5000. It is actually on sale at Woodpeckers as I write this for $299.99. That is $90.00 off of their regular price.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Glanton View Post
    I just setup a brand new INcra 5000. With the lg black lock handle and the end fence clamp not fastened, there's about 1/16" play in the actual miter gauge part...the gauge and the black plate underneath it (1 and 1/2 degree adj.) all move together in this 1/16" slop. The fence will clamp down at both ends of this 1/16"...is this normal?

    Thanks!
    Chris
    I'm assembling an Incra 5000 as I type this, there's zero play in mine. The three plates lock together, the miter gauge plate to the degree plate, the degree plate to the bottom plate which is fixed with 4 screws to the bottom of the sled. Zero play with the locking handle only snug.

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