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Thread: Rockler Sure Hooks and refinishing cabinet doors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Olympia, WA 98502
    Posts
    13

    Rockler Sure Hooks and refinishing cabinet doors

    I am a relative newbie to woodworking/ spraying finishes. "She who must be obeyed" wants to redo our beautiful wood cabinets and spray them white, so we are going to spray them white. I have a canopy that I will enclose with painters plastic, and I scored a deal on a fuji sprayer through craigslist. I have 28 cabinet doors/ drawer fronts that will need to be sprayed. I was looking at the Rocker Sure Hooks to securely hold the doors, rotate them, and be able to move them from a spraying corner to a drying corner. They looks great but are crazy expensive. A guy on ebay has 86 of them up for sale for ~$4 a piece and I might buy/re-sell them... even that seems like a criminal amount of money for what they are.

    I am tempted to use the knob/ handle/ hinge holes to drive in a screw, and hang them from 12awg wire... but wondering if you all have any opinions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    Since you sound new to spraying, I'm recommending spraying them laying flat. Get enough of the little plastic pyramids to support what you have room to spray in one session. Spray the backs first.

    Personally, I wouldn't buy those things unless I did that sort of spraying all the time.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,645
    I'm with Tom; spray them flat. I always spray flat whenever possible. Less problems with runs, easier to see the wet line, easier to apply a uniform coat. Spraying doors hanging at an odd angle is for pros and masochists. 28 doors/drawer fronts is not a crazy number. At most, make yourself a shelf type drying rack to load the sprayed doors into as you go.

    Don't worry about the finish not looking uniform at the edges because you sprayed each side separately. I spray the bottoms first and the edges. Then I spray the tops and the edges again. After sanding I do the same on the second coat but only spray the edges when doing the top surface the second time. The edges take the most abuse so they need at least one extra coat, within the limits of the allowable film thickness recommended by the finish manufacturer.

    John

  4. #4
    Love, love, love them! Wouldn't be without. Best thing to ever happen to the finishing process for me. Seriously. Nothing like getting the entire piece wet down at once. Radical time saver / quality booster in one. Huge space saver too- even a dozen doors can wreck your workspace very quickly. The screw-mount versions are great for adjustable shelves and drawer faces. Just hang on 3/4" conduit on wall brackets, keeping them out of the way and reducing contamination from overspray as remainder of project is being shot. In my experience, too much time waiting for drying of flat laid pieces, fretting about imprints/contaminants on face that is laying down and the subsequent re-touching when something does go sideways.
    As workpiece is being sprayed, you can spin them to optimize light reflection, allowing you to more easily judge wetness/coverage volume as you go. Edges get hit first, second hit a few moments later as faces are being done = I agree with John on extra volume for those highly abused edges, and those hooks don't hinder that mindset at all.
    If I didn't already have several dozen, I'd be hitting up that guy on ebay.

    Footnote: I'm 15 year full time woodworker, so take with a grain of salt if it's hobby for you and completion dates are not a looming factor all day in your shop!

  5. #5
    Hi. I am in the process of finishing kitchen cabinets, which I built. I used a clear waterborne conversion varnish for the boxes and I am painting the doors white with Benjamin Moore "Advanced" semi-gloss acrylic paint. I have a Fuji HVLP system. I constructed a painting booth similar to yours and hung the cabinet doors from above. This sort of worked...even with the "low pressure" system the air and paint still caused the doors to rotate slowly and it is difficult to main a constant distance and angle with the spray gun. Fortunately, I am starting with plain primer on the bare wood, so it doesn't much matter the coats aren't perfectly even. They are going to get a light sanding anyway before the finish coats. But based on this first experience, I am going to apply the finish coats with the doors flat as described. I better order some more of those painter's points....

    SB

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    Before I got painter's points I used scraps of sheet goods with nails driven thru.

    If this is your first time spraying practice on cardboard and scrap.

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