Honda EU6500is Generator

[Bill Dufour]

I would say add 95% alcohol to dry out the tank but the pandemic makes that hard to get.
Bill D

[George Yetka]

I had 2 generators fail when i needed them a couple month ago. Both had gummed up carburetors. I had a honda inverter. the maintence kit was $40 the maintenece kit with a new carb was 65. So i replaced it. same with my generac. Granted they are not genuine Carbs but it was easier to replace it then spend time cleaning it. I did however keep the old ones and soaked them and through them on the shelf

[Scott T Smith]

If it consistently will start, run 5 seconds and then shut down, and then repeat, your problem in all likelihood is a bad oil or temperature sensor. These engines are designed to shut themselves off if they are low on oil.

Locate the sensor and disconnect it to see if it makes a difference. If so, replace the sensor.

[John Terefenko]

If it consistently will start, run 5 seconds and then shut down, and then repeat, your problem in all likelihood is a bad oil or temperature sensor. These engines are designed to shut themselves off if they are low on oil.

Locate the sensor and disconnect it to see if it makes a difference. If so, replace the sensor.

Will try because I am going to replace oil anyway.

[Jeff Ramsey]

Mechanic in a bottle cleans well, but the engine needs to run longer than 5 seconds. If it ran for a while then shut off, I’d suspect the coil or something electrical, but 5 seconds doesn’t seem long enough to heat up the coil. Try an in-line spark tester and if it flashes while shutting down, it’s likely not electrical. Does it sputter as it shuts off, or does it shut off quickly? If the former I’d suspect the fuel/carburetor and if the latter I’d suspect ... lots of things including the coil. Is there an electronic controller board? I’ve an EB11000 and there’s a controller board. Do you treat your gas? If that generator doesn’t have a manual choke (mine does), you could block the air intakes on the outside to force a richer mix (ie choking) to see if it runs longer. If it does, it’s likely a gummed up carburetor (don’t let it run like this long or it’ll run hot). Also run it with the ECO switch off which should run the engine at higher RPMs (at least my EB11000 does). If you suspect the carburetor, pull off the bowl and put the components (main jet/nozzle) in carburetor cleaner over night (or pull the carburetor and toss the entire carburetor in with the bowl and components off). Carburetor rebuild kits are inexpensive. If it is the carburetor, welcome to the wonderful world of corn fuel and small engines. BTW I use 89 and treat my gas with StarTron (I live 30 miles north of Philly and have no access to reasonable octane E0 — I don’t consider Aviation fuel reasonable octane for small engines).

[John Terefenko]

Mechanic in a bottle cleans well, but the engine needs to run longer than 5 seconds. If it ran for a while then shut off, I’d suspect the coil or something electrical, but 5 seconds doesn’t seem long enough to heat up the coil. Try an in-line spark tester and if it flashes while shutting down, it’s likely not electrical. Does it sputter as it shuts off, or does it shut off quickly? If the former I’d suspect the fuel/carburetor and if the latter I’d suspect ... lots of things including the coil. Is there an electronic controller board? I’ve an EB11000 and there’s a controller board. Do you treat your gas? If that generator doesn’t have a manual choke (mine does), you could block the air intakes on the outside to force a richer mix (ie choking) to see if it runs longer. If it does, it’s likely a gummed up carburetor (don’t let it run like this long or it’ll run hot). Also run it with the ECO switch off which should run the engine at higher RPMs (at least my EB11000 does). If you suspect the carburetor, pull off the bowl and put the components (main jet/nozzle) in carburetor cleaner over night (or pull the carburetor and toss the entire carburetor in with the bowl and components off). Carburetor rebuild kits are inexpensive. If it is the carburetor, welcome to the wonderful world of corn fuel and small engines. BTW I use 89 and treat my gas with StarTron (I live 30 miles north of Philly and have no access to reasonable octane E0 — I don’t consider Aviation fuel reasonable octane for small engines).

It does not sputter when shuts down. Just quickly shuts off. I did not put stabilizer in this gas and thought I could get away with it. Just bought a charger so first step will be to try to salvage the battery (probably not) if not then will get new battery. This way I can see if there are any error codes that maybe a clue. Next will be drain oil and pull airbox and shoot carb cleaner in carb. Will take carb bowl off and look in it and clean. I do not want to pull carb because it has 2 choke motors sitting on top and the little springs are a pain to deal with. I will have it in the service shop then and have them do a maintenance and from now on I will use stabilizer in gas. That is where I probably went wrong. Need to get battery anyway so will start there. Thanks.I know it is not electronic board. It could be an oil sensor or temp sensor. Will see.

[Jebediah Eckert]

You won’t do that again when you see how much the battery is.....trickle charger.......

[Stan Coryell]

I know nothing about engines of any kind. I use Startron as an additive. Is that OK too?
I do the 'run the engine dry and then start it and run it with Tru Fuel' routine before storing. Is that not necessary? It's actually quite embarrassing that I'm still this clueless about the small engines that I depend on.

Sorry Dave I didn't see your question.
I've never used Startron
At home I use about 4 gallons of gas and 2 gallons of 50:1 a year. When I buy gas I put Staybil in it. I also keep it in a Type II safety can. These cans are not open to atmosphere. I really don't do anything special. I just try to run everything every couple of months.
I have a Craftsman lawnmower that is getting close to 20 years old. Its just starting to use oil. Other than yearly oil changes and air filter checks, two sets of tires, and routine maintenance I haven't done anything to it. It runs 40 minutes every 5 days in season.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Low oil sensor could be bad. Unplug wire from it and see if it runs. If so, there is your answer. On most engines, low oil sensor won't let it start. I would check fuel supply, as it sounds like it's running out of fuel quickly.

[John Terefenko]

Just wanted to give an update on this situation. I was finally able to get to my generator problem today. First let me say I had to buy a new battery because I did not keep the old one charged and it was too far gone. I wanted to see if any error codes would come up when turned on and sure enough the oil light was on as I figured it might be. Thought it might be a sensor. Well I drained oil and put fresh in. Turned key and light went out and started right up. Ran for an hour with a load on it and it purred like a kitten. So no rebuilding carbs or tearing anything down. But I will run gas out of it and from now on use gas with stabilizer in it. This gas was bought in Dec. So I am pushing it but with doing some runs to keep battery charged and keep things running well I will burn it up within a few more hours.

Want to thank everyone for their thoughts and ideas and knowledge. Have to say I actually stopped at a dealer to set up a pickup if I could not get running so saved a few $$$. Thanks again.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks for the update!

Just one more thing I do with mine. I shut the gas off and run it til it stops. Then open the side panel and you will see a clear hose that runs from the bottom of the carb to the ground. There is a screw on top you open up and the remaining little bit of gas will drain out. There isn’t much but I think that little bit causes problems over time. Once drained tighten the screw back up. Man, that oil must have been in rough shape to trip that sensor.

Your in a winter zone like me. Once the leaves fall I run the generator, fresh gas and fresh oil. Then it gets done at least once a year. Trickle charger is also key.

[John K Jordan]

I have this Honda generator. Having a problem and thought I would throw it out here to see what the masses have to say. Just happened. Ran about one month ago as I always run it for exercise and make sure it starts. Now I can start it but is stops after about 5 seconds. Things I checked without getting into much because I am not that sure of what to look for. I checked for oil incase it was kicking out on low oil sensor but not the case. I checked the spark plug and it is clean and gapped right. I checked for gas in carb and there was in bowl and it is clean. There is high test gas which I have been using and it is full and clean. Put fresh in tank because it was about 1/4 full.

Anyone have any ideas?? This thing is so heavy that I would hate to have to lift to bring to dealer. Thanks.

Starting and then stopping soon suggests a fuel problem. Sometimes the intake line gets clogged. Disconnect the fuel like and see if full runs freely. Collect such fuel and inspect for water. See if fuel is making it through the petcock - some have internal screens which can clog. Make sure any cutoff valve is completely on. I've fixed many engines with the same problem with cleaning. If not getting fuel from the tank try blowing air up to the take from the disconnected fuel like. This can temporarily dislodge debris in and around the pickup tube. (I have temporarily "fixed" two big diesel mowers like this, one last week, enough to run to get back to the shop for disassembly and cleaning. Check and change any fuel filters. Remove the float bowl and see if fuel is coming trough and cutting off properly when lifting the float. (flooding can kill the engine too.)

Visually inspect the choke mechanism and make sure it is working properly, whether mechanical or otherwise. Have a clean air filter of course.

If getting fuel and air I then test the spark - remove the spark plug, ground the threads, and watch for a strong spark in reduced light. If missing I check the plug, wiring, then the coil. However, a problem with the spark is unlikely if the engine will start and run for a while.

If spark and air are good I then remove the carb and disassemble and clean. I have found gunk in various places in the carb including a buildup inside the tube to the main jet. (That one ran find after cleaning) Use carb cleaner on everything and blow compressed air through all the holes.

There are carb rebuild kits which replace the parts that tend to need it.

BTW, I never drain gas after use. From my research this is not necessary if using good fuel without alcohol but with stabilizer, running the engine regularly.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Back to that problem......we can’t get ethanol free gas up here.

[John K Jordan]

Back to that problem......we can’t get ethanol free gas up here.

It's widely available here, but usually high-test only and it's not cheap. I have to drive from 5 to 10 miles.

A google search shows several stations in your area that supposedly carry gasoline without ethanol.
Here is one general list of availability in the state. (I don't know how far these are)

https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=CT

[John Terefenko]

Thanks for the update!

Just one more thing I do with mine. I shut the gas off and run it til it stops. Then open the side panel and you will see a clear hose that runs from the bottom of the carb to the ground. There is a screw on top you open up and the remaining little bit of gas will drain out. There isn’t much but I think that little bit causes problems over time. Once drained tighten the screw back up. Man, that oil must have been in rough shape to trip that sensor.

Your in a winter zone like me. Once the leaves fall I run the generator, fresh gas and fresh oil. Then it gets done at least once a year. Trickle charger is also key.

Have been doing it that way ever since I got it so will continue. Hopefully will give me more years with out troubles. Many times I sure was glad to have it. Thanks again everyone.